Unexpected Installation Snags

Well, we picked up our LL Hearth yesterday, but discovered a couple of unexpected conditions.

In the old stove, the outlet was pretty much centered on the back of the stove, while the Hearth's outlet is oriented very close to the bottom of the unit. This is resulting in about an 8" discrepancy to meet the "T". Pipe configuration, from stove toward chimney = "T" (w/baro) --> 90* elbow --> 24" up. I suppose we'll need to either pour a pad or build a platform. Not sure if one choice holds any advantage over another. Existing hearth is 12" ceramic tile. My husband went to the Depot to pick up another box, and, you guessed it......... not making that color anymore.

Now, the tougher problem. Our clearance from the face of the fireplace to back of stove = 12". The trouble is with the mantle. This stove needs to be elevated so much that the height of it will reach the bottom of the mantle with only ~6" of clearance. I really hate to have to remove it. We were thinking about ripping it and making it flush with the brick face (to get 12" clearance), but it's still combustible material. Any and all ideas are welcome.

Please forgive my confusing description. Here are some pix:

Can't you just cut an 8" piece of flue pipe to make up the height difference? If I understand it correctly your exhaust port is now lower than the other one, correct? Never mind I see the hearth gets in the way of what I was picturing.

Regarding the clearance to the mantle...you could have a decorative shield on the mantle that is spaced 1" away from it. You will be amazed at the temp difference that shield will provide.

Creature Comforts wrote:Pipe configuration, from stove toward chimney = "T" (w/baro) --> 90* elbow --> 24" up.

Why can't you shorten that 24" vertical run a little and come off the stove with two 90's?

What about a piece of stainless flex pipe or an adjustable elbow to make the connection?

Any and all ideas are welcome.

My first inclination is to suggest you place the stove on the existing tile floor and look at cutting out some of the bricks from the center of the hearth to allow you to connect to the vent on the back of the stove. The stove itself will cover up the hearth and your clearance issue with the mantle goes away.
-Len

You could also knock out the bricks in the fireplace floor to allow the chimney connection to be lower. You would not have to change your tile and clearance to the mantel would be greater.

Good morning and a big thank you to everyone for the many ideas. I will show this to DH when he comes in from the shed. I really appreciate the different ideas and I know he will echo that.

Peace, CC

franco b wrote:You could also knock out the bricks in the fireplace floor to allow the chimney connection to be lower. You would not have to change your tile and clearance to the mantel would be greater.

I had to do something similar when I installed my wood stove several years ago. Although, where I removed the brick was inside the throat of the fireplace on the smoke shelf. And I only needed to do it because the liner wouldn't clear the shelf. I kept the brick just in case I decided to put the leading edge of the shelf back. Otherwise I was going to have to core drill a new outlet into the face of the chimney and that wasn't going to be fun since it's stone and cement.

CC, don't keep us on the edge of our chairs. What are you guys doing to resolve the issue, or didn't DH get in from the shed yet?

sometimes the addiction could keep ya inthe shed for days.......

I think maybe DH musta cornered CC in the shed--but on a serious note, hope everythimg is OK there??

freetown fred wrote:I think maybe DH musta cornered CC in the shed--but on a serious note, hope everythimg is OK there??

Hehe If that were true, I'd be smiling right now! I thought I would get on the Forum before midnight tonight, but no

Status remains incomplete.
Well, we decided to not remove any brick, (at least for now), so we poured an 8" high concrete pad. Added some charcoal pigment to the mix. Bought sealer, but directions say new cement needs at least a 30 day cure, so we'll live with it unsealed until the Spring. (this is somewhat of a "let's see" install, before we did get surgical w/ the brick, or rip the mantle, etc.). Still maintain 16" in front of pad. One thing I thought of too late, was to pour the pad in four sections for future removal. Since the concrete is 'raw', we placed four marble tiles we had on hand, under the unit, for now.

Regarding the mantle, (again, being conservative for the 1st season), we removed it intact and will replace it in the Spring. It's just bare now, but we will probably add some nice molding to fill the unpainted space between the mirror and the bricktop.

So... she's almost ready. In the photos you may see the coal-trol box mounted to the hopper, but it's just there until DH drills some holes on the back side of hopper tomorrow. I thought Jerry mentioned two sets of holes in the CD, but there aren't, only the side mount. Is there a heat issue with moving it to the back?

Regarding the mirror, DH discovered that the upper corner was pulling away from the wall! (~5'x3.5') Another trip to the Home Depot for some mirror mastic. (He says the older mastics tend to shrink over the yrs.)

Can't wait for that warm glow!!

Nice job on the step.

looks good!

baro is a wee close to the stove but see how she works.

Looks great!!! Nice job!!!

There should be absolutely no issue with moving the Coal trol to the back side of the hopper, it won't get too hot back there for it...

Keep us posted...