Liner and Cap
- ValterBorges
- Member
- Posts: 568
- Joined: Mon. Sep. 05, 2011 10:12 pm
- Location: Berlin, CT
Anyone here interested on doing chimney liner and cap, in Portland ct.
- watkinsdr
- Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Sat. Mar. 24, 2007 8:14 pm
- Location: Kensington, New Hampshire
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S260 Boiler
I had a sheister convince me I needed a insulated chimney liner with 6" stainless insert. Huge mistake. I'd never, ever, do it again.
I wish I still had my tile lined masonary flue; which, pulled like a freight train. It will cost me huge money to undue what has been done...
The cap however is a great idea. Highly recommended.
Proceed with caution.
I wish I still had my tile lined masonary flue; which, pulled like a freight train. It will cost me huge money to undue what has been done...
The cap however is a great idea. Highly recommended.
Proceed with caution.
- ValterBorges
- Member
- Posts: 568
- Joined: Mon. Sep. 05, 2011 10:12 pm
- Location: Berlin, CT
Good to know. Can you expand on the difference.
If you've got a masonry chimney lined or unlined in halfway decent condition - don't waste money and reduce it's safety by lining it with stainless.
Do I Need a Stainless Steel Liner for My Chimney?
Do I Need a Stainless Steel Liner for My Chimney?
- watkinsdr
- Member
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Sat. Mar. 24, 2007 8:14 pm
- Location: Kensington, New Hampshire
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S260 Boiler
Hey Valter:
About 10 years ago I got the bright idea to put a wood stove in my basement. Turns out, being a completely clueless wood burner, I had a minor chimney fire and didn't even know it; which, apparently damaged my tile lined masonary chimney flue (~30 feet tall). When I installed the Keystoker Koker 5 years ago, the guy who did the installation claimed I had a defective flue (due to the minor chimney fire) and the best way to rectify the problem would be installing a insulated 6" stainless steel (SS) liner (part of his business). My home insurance policy covered the installation; and, all was well---or so I thought...
Turns out burning the Koker only during the heating months left corrosive fly ash residue in the SS flue; combined with, moisture during the summer, now I have a major league corrosion problem. To add insult to injury---the 6" flue which worked great with the Koker, and worked great with the S130 too, now doesn't work with the S260 at all. I simply don't have enough draft while the S260 fan is running. I'm OK at all other times; but, when the S260 fan is running I'm getting CO blown past the type M baro because I don't have enough capacity exhausting into the 6" flue... And I'm really getting pissed... And I've tried everything... And the AHS website claims the S260 will work with a 6" flue... This is B.S. I've asked for help from AHS. They've never returned my e-mails...
Proceed with caution. If you move forward with this endeavour with your S260, go with an 8" solution; and, only if you're burning year 'round.
About 10 years ago I got the bright idea to put a wood stove in my basement. Turns out, being a completely clueless wood burner, I had a minor chimney fire and didn't even know it; which, apparently damaged my tile lined masonary chimney flue (~30 feet tall). When I installed the Keystoker Koker 5 years ago, the guy who did the installation claimed I had a defective flue (due to the minor chimney fire) and the best way to rectify the problem would be installing a insulated 6" stainless steel (SS) liner (part of his business). My home insurance policy covered the installation; and, all was well---or so I thought...
Turns out burning the Koker only during the heating months left corrosive fly ash residue in the SS flue; combined with, moisture during the summer, now I have a major league corrosion problem. To add insult to injury---the 6" flue which worked great with the Koker, and worked great with the S130 too, now doesn't work with the S260 at all. I simply don't have enough draft while the S260 fan is running. I'm OK at all other times; but, when the S260 fan is running I'm getting CO blown past the type M baro because I don't have enough capacity exhausting into the 6" flue... And I'm really getting pissed... And I've tried everything... And the AHS website claims the S260 will work with a 6" flue... This is B.S. I've asked for help from AHS. They've never returned my e-mails...
Proceed with caution. If you move forward with this endeavour with your S260, go with an 8" solution; and, only if you're burning year 'round.
- ValterBorges
- Member
- Posts: 568
- Joined: Mon. Sep. 05, 2011 10:12 pm
- Location: Berlin, CT
Thanks for advice.
Mother in law lives in Portland, ct. Im in Berlin, Ct.
Im on 30ft masonry and my 6" goes into chimney, draft is .04 with the Baro.
I was asking for her house she has loose brick from squirrels, no cap, and is running oil boiler.
Mother in law lives in Portland, ct. Im in Berlin, Ct.
Im on 30ft masonry and my 6" goes into chimney, draft is .04 with the Baro.
I was asking for her house she has loose brick from squirrels, no cap, and is running oil boiler.
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
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- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
Valter, any competent mason should be able to fix the loose bricks and get the chimney back in proper condition. A slate or stone cap would also be a nice touch.