L&G Fabricators Inc. model H1

Picked up my first coal stove over the weekend! It's a L&G Fabricators Inc. model H1.

Really nice to have a warm house without cringing due to propane costs





Have had is going since Sunday now, unfortunately going to have to shut her down over the holiday.

Welcome to the forum.

Looks like a good strong solid stove. Let us know how well it works after it is burning for awhile.

Is that stove sitting on carpet, or is your house on a concrete slab ?

Its in the basement on concrete, just at some point the previous owner had painted the floor (badly). Have it going through 8" stovepipe up into a 8.5"x12.5" flue (tile lined), made a plate and attached it inside the fireplace to the old damper with an opening to run the stovepipe through. From what I've been reading it seems like I should have a barometric damper on the stovepipe as well?

Manometer Install

Install a Barometric Damper on a Stoker Stove/Furnace?

Welcome to the FORUM my friend. Alot of people had that stove up in the Rutland area & beyond (VT) She's a kick ass radiant stove. I beleive they were for wood or coal??? But definetly a great heating machine. The floor looks fine, like a Freetown paint job. --- Does she have an internal damper???

It has vertical firebrick, and that is mandatory for burning coal...in my opinion at least. Looks like a tough stove, close the vents in the loading door until they are barely open...just enough to burn the gassess off.

I was going to mention the vents in door also.

RHarhen,

Welcome to the forum! I really like the design of your stove. I'm a novice and this is my first year, so I am getting educated in the world of coal stoves. I never knew there were so many different kinds. I'm sure that yours will serve you well.

You mentioned that you will have to shut down over the holidays. What temps are you guys expecting after thursday?? We are expecting upper 50's, maybe even 60 degrees, but I'm going to stick it out and keep her fired up here in Lancaster County, PA. It's supposed to turn cold again here after Monday.

All the best to you this winter!

You need one of two types of dampers if your stove does not have one. You either need a barometric damper or a manual flue damper. If you have a low draw chimney you can get away with a barometric damper. The baro will let warm heated room air up the chimney to regulate actual draw over the coal. From my own installation, my chimney draws too well for a baro. In my case the baro was ALWAYS open. If your installation is best for a baro, it will only open when the wind is really blowing and making your chimney draw stronger. If you have a tall chimney, you may well be better off with the manual flue damper. You NEED a monometer to know what the draw is over your fire, other wise you are just guessing. With the monometer you will be able to fine tune your burning.

Here is a link to Dwyer direct:

http://www.dwyer-direct.com/shop/itemDetail.do?it ... =0&item=25

This is the one most of us use. Affordable and dependable. Usually ships with in a week. Personally I drill a 3/16 hole in the stove pipe before the damper, this is where you measure the draw from, and use a piece of standard 1/8 inch brake line which is 3/16 OD to insert into the flue. Some stoves have larger holes in the steel colar where the stove pipe enter the unit, and this is a great place to put the line as it also acts as a faster on the pipe. Best, most efficient burning draw after you get fired up is .04 to .06 inches water column.

Also you do need to close of over the fire vents, they are really for wood. You may well get enough over fire air just from leakage around those vents. Controll the temp of the fire with the air in the bottom or under fire door, and it does not take much under fire air at all. You should be able to easily run the stove down as low as 300 or even maybe a little lower, and as high as 600 with no problems. Others out here who have experience with that particular stove can give you a better idea how much to open them to get your best burns.

If you really get into this like so many here have, the day will come that you will have to admit you addiction. But at least burning coal is a healthy addition, and lots of fun too.

I have to disagree with the "if you have a low draw chimney, you can get away with a baro damper" statement. A baro will only make it worse in that situation. The barometric damper is infact best, or rather designed for leveling off a high draw chimney. In your case, the baro should have enough of a weight to counter act your high draw chimney?

Nice stove! Fill that puppy up to the top of the fire bricks. A coal stove is different then wood - with a coal stove the heat produced is determined by the strength of the underfire draft, not the amount of fuel in the stove. I bet if you were to fill your firebox to the top and opened the air vents on the ashpan door just a crack, you could get a 15 or 10 hour burn between loads, easy. That's a main attraction of coal, long, slow burns without needing any attention. Lisa

Just for the record, any GOOD wood burning stove has vert. or hori. firebrick--case in point--my old Bullard wood only BEAST--ahhh, you young kids Geez-um I haven't cleaned the old Bullard in 3 yrs, now I feel guilty & will do that today---me bad Hey Ivan, how you liking T-Day so far???

Rob R. wrote:It has vertical firebrick, and that is mandatory for burning coal...in my opinion at least. Looks like a tough stove, close the vents in the loading door until they are barely open...just enough to burn the gassess off.

Nice stove

Curious - that's a rather long horizontal pipe - can someone shed some light on what would be considered the maximum horizontal length - assuming a slight angle up on the chimney end ?
That looks to be 3 feet ? Is that okay ? I'm interested in doing something similar at my parents house.

jj, nothing is carved in stone. I beleive he's done exactly what needed to be done in order to get the stove going. Maybe next season he'll have some different ideas, maybe not. C.O. ALARMS& SAFETY is at the forefront no matter how you run your pipe/stove. With my HITZER hand fired, at the end of the season, I've never had more then a cup full of flyash when I cleaned the pipes out. Hand fired seem to burn alot cleaner then the girly girl stoves. Just one old farmers thoughts.