Warm Morning 414A Problems With Anthracite?

It looks like someone has put the wrong center section in that one. I will take a picture of mine, it should be a much tighter fit as you suspect.

I would measure the width that is supposed to fit in there and see if you can get one to fit.....

http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Warm_Morning ... _s/161.htm

Yes I need to empty the ash pan....

Jeger wrote:It looks like someone has put the wrong center section in that one. I will take a picture of mine, it should be a much tighter fit as you suspect.

I would measure the width that is supposed to fit in there and see if you can get one to fit.....

http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Warm_Morning ... _s/161.htm

Yes I need to empty the ash pan....

Here is the photos of the grate and shakers. I just noticed some cracks in the grate. What temps do you think this grate will see? If below 1700 I can weld it with silicon bronze. Take a look at those center forks, they both have a part number of 4145 and seems to match the stove except for the fact it's a slightly sloppy fit. I can modify if need be. The prices on those parts websites don't seem reasonable lol.





By the way what is the tab with the hole in it for on the back of the great.

Rob R. wrote:

Smokeyja wrote:The prices on those parts websites don't seem reasonable lol.

According to my napkin math, a new round grate and a grate slide is about $90 for your stove. That sure seems reasonable to me, you won't find someone to cast them for less.

I bought the stove for 90$ and I'd rather save my money for a better stove rather than spend $90 for a grate on this one but I don't need a new grate at this time. http://a1stoves.com/round-grate-428e-p-11708.html ... ath=28_209 the model 400 is different than the 414A.

I guess I used the wrong words when I said unreasonable. I should be happy that a company carries parts for this stove.
Although I do have a foundry right down the road that can pour a casting of whatever I make.

I might consider paying the $59 but if the temps will stay below 1700 down there then the silicon bronze will hold. Although for the time being the grate is sound as is. It's the shaker that may be wrong and is 35$

Smokeyja.... I would put that money toward a new stove like you said. There are a lot of used stoves on Craigslist for the right price if you know what you want. The air tight models seem to do a better job than some of the older models. There are a lot to choose from. Harman, Hitzer, Russo, Gibralter, Buck, Alaska, Keystoker, and many more. I went from a Warm Morning 523-R to Buck Model 24 Coal Stove and to me it was like going from Pinto to a Cadillac. I would shop around and keep looking for the right stove at a decent price.

your grate is in backwards. the tab goes between the rails on the shaker handle. this is why you aren't able to shake it very well. sometimes there is a pin through the hole in the tab to hold the handle up tighter.

Also, that grate is looking like it got a bit overheated. you might want to go ahead and buy a new one anyway. I've welded and brazed cast iron successfully, but I've never had it hold up well when used as a stove grate.

Berlin wrote:your grate is in backwards. the tab goes between the rails on the shaker handle. this is why you aren't able to shake it very well. sometimes there is a pin through the hole in the tab to hold the handle up tighter.

Also, that grate is looking like it got a bit overheated. you might want to go ahead and buy a new one anyway. I've welded and brazed cast iron successfully, but I've never had it hold up well when used as a stove grate.

Thanks Berlin. I admit that I didn't do a detailed enough run down of this stove before I put it into use. I just checked the firebrick and the metal for cracks and seal. That makes sense why the shaker handle fits over the tab. That is such a simple thing that it makes ou feel dumb for not figure out .

I agree the grate does look to be overheated. I wonder if welding the crack then collering it might work but it may not be worth it. I guess $59 isn't too bad. The stove is in decent shape and I would hate to chuck it just because of a busted grate. I was just thinking that I should buy some parts for it, who knows when they will stop selling them but I don't want to sink to much into it at the same time.

Buy a new grate, fix it right, burn it for this winter, save up for another stove and sell in the sping. You will most likely come out even for what you paid for the stove and the parts for it. What you don't want is to have the grate break and fall in the ash pan when it's below 0 out side.It will make you very bad things!

I bought the new grate from here:

http://www.STOVE-PARTS-UNLIMITED.COM/Warm_Morning ... 41427r.htm

They have better shipping charges.

I refuse to use baseboard heat this year and don't want to burn the kerosine inside either cause it's gonna heat the garage. So not too bad of an expense. Too bad they don't sell firebrick for the 414 .

Thanks for the help guys!

The WM is working perfect now. I put in the old grate, the right way, because the new one isnt here yet, and it shakes smooth and easy. I burned coal last night and topped her off this morning and its still burning tonight. I just topped it off a few minutes ago.

Thanks for all the great input! It helped out a lot! I am still debating on weather to put a Manual damper or a Baro damper or leave it how it is. The Warm Morning user manual states to install a "hand operated damper" and suggest a Baro as an option. I read the entire thread on this issue but still haven't made up my mind. The only reason I would want either is to make my coal burn longer for the money. I am not convinced either will though. So far I have been able to hold the stove at a steady 300f stove pipe temperature by adjusting the bottom damper. My wife said that it has stayed that way the entire day and sure enough, when I came home, it was holding steady. Only when I load do I need to change the setting on the stove for a few minutes until the new coal heats up, then it's back to the long term setting.

Any ideas on that are appreciated.

On a cold and windy night the baro will compensate for changes in draft. Without it the stove will run hotter under those conditions.

franco b wrote:On a cold and windy night the baro will compensate for changes in draft. Without it the stove will run hotter under those conditions.

Ok so other than that the Baro won't have any other advantages than to prevent overfire or burning my fuel up faster than I want it too? I need to get one of those manometers I read about in the crazy manual damper Baro debate lol.

You know now that I think about it, a Baro damper wouldn't look so great in my living room. I wonder what, if this is even an option, is the smallest size Barometric damper I can put on there and if I could put it on the back side of the pipe.

Yes you can put it in the back. Field sells the 6 inch size with a collar that allows you to cut a hole in your existing pipe and install. You can do it with the pipe in place provided there is enough room to work.

My new grate came today!

So glad you can still buy the cast parts for this little stove. It's still holding the house at 70f and 300 degrees at the flue. I had a really bad dream last night that the wind was really bad and it over fired the stove and I couldn't stop it! The stove was melting in the dream... Not good. Btw when I buy a Baro damper, can I set the max limit on the draft? Or is it a prefixed setting?

The baro is adjustable. It will help to lower your stack temperature when the draft is too strong.

At one time the Warm Morning stoves were shipped with a baro.