Got Rid of the 50-93 and Bought a Clayton Wood-Coal Furnace

 
RLB112
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Post by RLB112 » Sun. Dec. 18, 2011 7:56 am

well I decided to fire up the clayton on saturday at 4pm, and she took right off. the stove runs great and has been running steady since I fired it up. the only issue that im having with it is the high limit switch. the issue is that there is a probe that sticks into the back of the stove that detects the temp. that seems to be telling the blower to kick on and off. when the blower comes on im thinking that the air from blower is cooling the probe down which shuts the blower off cuz the stove is not up to temp. I put a coffee can over the probe to sheild it from the air, its seems to let the blower run a little longer but def. not long enough to get the house up to set temp. it will come on for 60 sec. or so then shut off the stove will heat back up and repeat the cycle. anyone know where to set the limit switch? another issue that may be a prob. is the blower motor only works on high, it needs to not blow as hard. im gonna go buy one of those switches like I had on my hitzer so I can adjust the blower speed but not sure if it will work with this set up.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Dec. 18, 2011 8:16 am

RLB112 wrote: im gonna go buy one of those switches like I had on my hitzer so I can adjust the blower speed but not sure if it will work with this set up.
Good idea. A rheostat will allow you to adjust the blower speed and throttle the output. Slow and steady is preferrable to on/off/on/off...

Here is some reading on the subject: Bigger Stove

 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Dec. 18, 2011 10:51 am

The Claytons have something like 1000-1500 cfm blowers, make sure any switch/controller can handle the amperage of that size motor...read amps on motor tag. :)

Have the fan/high limit device...aka *probe* set to ~100* off and ~ 150* on, high limit might be a fixed setting, but needs to be no higher than ~200*.

If your blower is a 2 or 3 speed type, you can physically change the wiring to a lower speed...typically one for each speed, black, red or blue...Hi, Med or Low for 1 of 3 speeds. You should find the unused colored wire(s) capped and spared. The one in use (probably black) may be connected to a relay...cap it and choose another.

Only attempt any electrical work on your own equipment if you fully understand proper electrical safety protocols.

 
RLB112
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Post by RLB112 » Sun. Dec. 18, 2011 11:21 am

thanks guys, mcgeiver, there are only 2 wires a white and black with no extra capped wires in box. im thinking the origional motor was changed cuz there is a dayton motor on it. 3.6amp

 
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Dec. 18, 2011 1:59 pm

My clayton 1537g has 2 - 550 CFM convection blowers. Just a black and white wire from each, I've considered getting a variable switch also. I think each blower is 2.8 amps. I didn't like that themostat switch much. I totally did away with the blower thermostat (the probe one sticking in the back of the furnace) and ran power directly to the blowers with a simple switch in line. I figure, if the furnace is burning - I want the convection blowers on.. And if the furnace isn't burning then I can throw the switch and turn the blowers off.. Which of course eliminated any on/off cycling you describe.


 
RLB112
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Post by RLB112 » Sun. Dec. 18, 2011 8:20 pm

ya lightning im gonna do the same thing once I get the rheostat. although its working pretty good right now. the thermostat doesnt seem to work, I can put it up on 90 and it has no effect. im taking everything off other than the blower, I have a single large blower that is powerd by a dayton 3/4hp motor that is mounted on top of the blower uses a belt to drive it. now all I gotta do is find a rheostat.

 
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Post by franco b » Sun. Dec. 18, 2011 9:27 pm

RLB112 wrote:ya lightning im gonna do the same thing once I get the rheostat. although its working pretty good right now. the thermostat doesnt seem to work, I can put it up on 90 and it has no effect. im taking everything off other than the blower, I have a single large blower that is powerd by a dayton 3/4hp motor that is mounted on top of the blower uses a belt to drive it. now all I gotta do is find a rheostat.
I don't think a rheostat will work with that motor.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Dec. 18, 2011 10:16 pm

...Note: Check with motor manufacturer before using. Not for use with split-phase or capacitor-start motors.

 
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Post by DennisH » Mon. Dec. 19, 2011 7:49 pm

I have a Yukon-Eagle Klondike wood/coal whole house furnace that is in my basement and ducted to the upper level(s). It has a 1/2hp blower motor, and on the fan limit switch (probe type) it has a "auto" & "manual" button to either have the blower cycle on-off (auto) according to thermostat demand or just say on (manual) while the furnace if firing. I've decided to just leave it in manual to prevent the cycling on & off. And, since a 1/2hp motor draws about 2300watts at startup vs 850w or so while running, I'm curious if just leaving in in manual mode will reduce electricity consumption any. I absolutely LOVE my Klondike! It's a great furnace and really cranks out the BTUs to keep my very open 2500sqft house nice & warm even in the coldest U.P. of Michigan weather. :D

 
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Post by Vinmaker » Mon. Dec. 19, 2011 8:10 pm

I find that the motor on my stove does not like a speed controller like my old stove did (fasco motor). Not sure of the types of either the old or new as I do not understand the differences. My only point here is that you really need to make sure the motor will accept a speed control. I was looking at the Grainer site for a new motor (to upgrade to more CFMs) and many of the motors specifically said not to be used with a speed controller. Actually, I do not even recall seeing that one did like a speed controller.

Vin.


 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Dec. 19, 2011 10:45 pm

Vinmaker wrote:I find that the motor on my stove does not like a speed controller like my old stove did (fasco motor). Not sure of the types of either the old or new as I do not understand the differences. My only point here is that you really need to make sure the motor will accept a speed control. I was looking at the Grainer site for a new motor (to upgrade to more CFMs) and many of the motors specifically said not to be used with a speed controller. Actually, I do not even recall seeing that one did like a speed controller.

Vin.
I have used speed controller on both the shaded pole and (PSC) permanent split capacitor motors with great success...and Grainger and elsewhere states, *Not for speed control". And the other part of this is, the mfg'r of the speed controller, KB Electronics, states..."Compatible with shaded pole and PSC motors. I have never attempted to use an ordinary light dimmer though. :)

 
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Post by 2001Sierra » Mon. Dec. 19, 2011 11:26 pm

Dimmers merely reduce the voltage which motors hate. A true motor speed control changes the input to the motor with the wave form vs the amplitude. Shaded pole motors are made to run with these controls.

 
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Dec. 20, 2011 9:20 pm

RLB112 wrote:well I decided to fire up the clayton on saturday at 4pm, and she took right off. the stove runs great and has been running steady since I fired it up. the only issue that im having with it is the high limit switch. the issue is that there is a probe that sticks into the back of the stove that detects the temp. that seems to be telling the blower to kick on and off. when the blower comes on im thinking that the air from blower is cooling the probe down which shuts the blower off cuz the stove is not up to temp. I put a coffee can over the probe to sheild it from the air, its seems to let the blower run a little longer but def. not long enough to get the house up to set temp. it will come on for 60 sec. or so then shut off the stove will heat back up and repeat the cycle. anyone know where to set the limit switch? another issue that may be a prob. is the blower motor only works on high, it needs to not blow as hard. im gonna go buy one of those switches like I had on my hitzer so I can adjust the blower speed but not sure if it will work with this set up.
Since there was little else useful to improve your blower and fan switch from short cycling, I wanted to add, that the location of the fan switch/high limit in the plenum plays a big part in how the blower cycles. Probably just relocating it out of the main air steam as best you can will improve it. Basically a spot that stays hottest the longest is what you need to locate...in a corner, down low closer to the firebox...the source of heat...with the least flow from air steam. Give it a try :idea:

 
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Dec. 21, 2011 9:50 pm

McGiever wrote:The Claytons have something like 1000-1500 cfm blowers, make sure any switch/controller can handle the amperage of that size motor...read amps on motor tag. :)

Have the fan/high limit device...aka *probe* set to ~100* off and ~ 150* on, high limit might be a fixed setting, but needs to be no higher than ~200*.

If your blower is a 2 or 3 speed type, you can physically change the wiring to a lower speed...typically one for each speed, black, red or blue...Hi, Med or Low for 1 of 3 speeds. You should find the unused colored wire(s) capped and spared. The one in use (probably black) may be connected to a relay...cap it and choose another.

Only attempt any electrical work on your own equipment if you fully understand proper electrical safety protocols.
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