Hitzer 30-95 Max. Temperature

Hello! I have a Hitzer 30-95 EZ Flo stove. I was wondering what the maximum operating temperature should be. I check the temp with infared gun at a point
on the sides about 3 inches down from the top. From what I've been reading on the forum opinions vary. Any advice would be appreciated.

My opinion is 600 degrees and I would not keep it that high.

I agree. I feel that 500-600 degrees is a hot as I want to go. Your producing plenty of heat that these temperatures

This question comes up a lot. It doesn't matter what the owners manual says the max temperature for your stove is. The max temperature you want to get out of your stove is that temperature that meets the heating needs of your family. You don't need to burn a stove any hotter then that and that is going to change with every house. That being said, I agree with everyone else that with the stove you have could probably burn at 600* no problems but why would you. It's just going to cost you more coal and more tending time; in all but the coldest location that is going to roast you out. Lisa

Describe your SOP for running your stove-draft--flap & ash door, shake down & top off times, type coal, etc. What is your concern??? How is the stove heating. Size house, By the way, welcome to the FORUM.

The surface temperature of the stove is directly proportional to the BTU output based on the square footage of the radiating surface. Running at 600 degrees is more efficient than burning the coal at a lower temperature. I would rather have a medium sized stove running at 600 degrees than a large stove burning at just 350 degrees for example. However, that 600 degrees must only be needed on the coldest days of the year, otherwise you have an undersized stove which will not meet your desired indoor temperature during the coldest winter days.

From all I read including the owners manual I believe 600* should be the max for our stoves. Burning a stove hot may be more efficient as EW&F says, ( ? I actually have not heard this before?) but burning at more moderate temps most of the time should yield a longer stove life. Personaly if I had to burn above about 450* most of the winter, I would move up to the 50-93 Hitzer.

EarthWindandFire wrote:The surface temperature of the stove is directly proportional to the BTU output based on the square footage of the radiating surface. Running at 600 degrees is more efficient than burning the coal at a lower temperature. I would rather have a medium sized stove running at 600 degrees than a large stove burning at just 350 degrees for example. However, that 600 degrees must only be needed on the coldest days of the year, otherwise you have an undersized stove which will not meet your desired indoor temperature during the coldest winter days.

At 600 degrees though more heat may be going up the chimney cause you can not radiate the heat fast enough, due to the smaller size stove

Eric

EarthWindandFire wrote:The surface temperature of the stove is directly proportional to the BTU output based on the square footage of the radiating surface. Running at 600 degrees is more efficient than burning the coal at a lower temperature. I would rather have a medium sized stove running at 600 degrees than a large stove burning at just 350 degrees for example. However, that 600 degrees must only be needed on the coldest days of the year, otherwise you have an undersized stove which will not meet your desired indoor temperature during the coldest winter days.

I don't know about that Mark? You may be right but I think I would rather the larger stove at 350 than the smaller at 600. Less stress on the stove, longer burn times, and I would bet less fuel usuage too.
I do agree about the sizing though. A 600 degree stove should be for the coldest part of winter or you're undersized. I find that my fuel usuage is fairly consistent up to a point. Then when I hit those high temps (stove) all of a sudden the tending times are shorter and I'm pouring more coal through. That difference between say 500 and 600 degrees is dramatic as regards to coal used.

SteveZee wrote:I don't know about that Mark? You may be right but I think I would rather the larger stove at 350 than the smaller at 600. Less stress on the stove, longer burn times, and I would bet less fuel usuage too.
I do agree about the sizing though. A 600 degree stove should be for the coldest part of winter or you're undersized. I find that my fuel usuage is fairly consistent up to a point. Then when I hit those high temps (stove) all of a sudden the tending times are shorter and I'm pouring more coal through. That difference between say 500 and 600 degrees is dramatic as regards to coal used.

Absolutely right. A higher firebox temp. will almost always mean higher combustion efficiency but not (as William has pointed out several times) higher overall efficiency. It depends on the stove and each stove design has only one point in terms of firing rate where it is most efficient.

Some stoves have the ability to adjust the size or the effectiveness of the heat exchange surface. Steve's cook stove can send the gasses around the oven and his base heater can also extend the flue passage at will. Fred's Hitzer can use a blower or even vary the speed of that blower to tailor output.

Thanks for the opinion. I kind of come to that conclusion this past Sunday and Monday. I run my stove between 575 and 600 for around 12 hours without any problem at all.
This weekend was the first time I have ever burnt anthracite and I really like it. I was experimenting with different slider and draft settings, just trying to get a feel for the stove and
and anthracite coal. The Dwyer manometer I ordered just arrived today, so hope to be able to fine tune my Barometric damper. quote="franco b"]My opinion is 600 degrees and I would not keep it that high.[/quote]

grizzly2 wrote:From all I read including the owners manual I believe 600* should be the max for our stoves. Burning a stove hot may be more efficient as EW&F says, ( ? I actually have not heard this before?) but burning at more moderate temps most of the time should yield a longer stove life. Personaly if I had to burn above about 450* most of the winter, I would move up to the 50-93 Hitzer.

I agree with Grizzly 2. you should be able to burn for 12 hours easy. Should you need to be burning too hot (in order to heat your house to a comfortable temperature), and your stove is out in less than 12 hours, you need to step up to a bigger stove. Like others said; The stove only needs to run hot enough to heat the house. Oliver

The surface temperature of the stove is directly proportional to the BTU output based on the square footage of the radiating surface.

... and itself is a function of temperature differential and that is why blowers work good and why the AnthraKing principle is the best. Yes, I know steam locos did it 150 years ago but now somebody has done it better. So we have the Hitzer camp, hydronics, old stoves and now a new camp. Just saying... We all have our religion.

coalnewbie wrote: that is why blowers work good and why the AnthraKing principle is the best. Yes, I know steam locos did it 150 years ago but now somebody has done it better. So we have the Hitzer camp, hydronics, old stoves and now a new camp. Just saying... We all have our religion.

How can I tell if yours is the true faith if I don't know what it is? What is the AnthraKing principal and does it require sacrifice?

What is the AnthraKing principal and does it require sacrifice?

You have no idea what I go through. Every morning I load the coal in the big hole and take out the ashes from the little hole at the bottom. Call Dave or Matt at LL and they will walk you through it. If there was even a schematic on the LL board I would elaborate but as it is I think they should do the work. Subject closed on this thread no desire to hijack it.