BRAKES Front Caliper Won't Release...HELP!
- McGiever
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Greetings,
This trouble started out very slight at first and it soon became extreme.
Got it in my garage and jacked up now and not sure how to proceed.
It's locked up pretty good and before I started disassembling it, I started to wondering how it would come apart being as it is locked on the rotor??? Didn't want to open up the hydraulics and let air be sucked in...that would only add another problem...what else is there to do?
TIA,
McGiever
This trouble started out very slight at first and it soon became extreme.
Got it in my garage and jacked up now and not sure how to proceed.
It's locked up pretty good and before I started disassembling it, I started to wondering how it would come apart being as it is locked on the rotor??? Didn't want to open up the hydraulics and let air be sucked in...that would only add another problem...what else is there to do?
TIA,
McGiever
- EarthWindandFire
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What is the year, make and model of your vehicle?
- freetown fred
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freetown fred wrote:Maybe EWF's got a fix for you, but I can't think of anything other then opening that bleeder. Sorry my friend. PS oh the old breaking the bleeder off--PB blast it to tears & that only works 1 out of 10 x's anyway it seems or try the old torches & see what all you can set on fire.--you going to //rebuild or replace--calipers are not that expensive since they've become throw away stuff At least not on old Chevy p/ups--don't seem like there are any quick fix's anymore.
- Freddy
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Opening the bleeder probably isn't going to release the stuck pads. Taking your foot off the brake pedal releases the fluid pressure. Just start taking out the bolts that holds it all together. It'll come a point that it should fall apart....at that point, gently tap with the biggest hammer that is needed to make it release. If it's jammed because the pad has come out of it's housing, chances are you need new rotor anyway.
- coalvet
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Most likely the piston is frozen in the caliper, no need to be gentle at this point. Plan on rebuilding the caliper or just replacing it with a new unit.
- McGiever
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Thanks...It came apart pretty easy...both pads are worn to a slight wedge shape...in opposite directions. Tells me they were both "cocked"...but how did they get that way?
These brake pads were replaced less than 3,000 miles ago. New rotors at that time too.
The linings look pretty crappy...maybe they were defective to start.
I'll check the piston next........
Sure enough, piston frozen.
These brake pads were replaced less than 3,000 miles ago. New rotors at that time too.
The linings look pretty crappy...maybe they were defective to start.
I'll check the piston next........
Sure enough, piston frozen.
Last edited by McGiever on Wed. Dec. 14, 2011 5:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- freetown fred
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Sounds promising so far.
- Sting
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replace the pads both front calipers and hoses
hoses will collapse and cause this problem
hang a new set of rotors on while your at it - if the friction overheated the rotors their junk too
hoses will collapse and cause this problem
hang a new set of rotors on while your at it - if the friction overheated the rotors their junk too
- freetown fred
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Geeezum, somebody's rollin in the big bucks
- WNY
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I just did my F150 for the calipers, pads, etc. over the summer..they were known to lock up and drag!! What a difference, I think my mileage went up too!
Sometimes the pistons "Hyper-extend" themselves, and can't be pulled back in. Try using a C clamp to push the piston back in, and test it with new pads in place. I've had several work correctly after that, and after installing new pads. If it still locks in the 'out' position, then you can get it rebuilt, or buy a new caliper.
- Poconoeagle
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very common are hoses internally separating and thus they act as a heart valve whereby the fluid is pushed down them applying the brakes yet when released the fluid cant return to the master via the hose as it's trapped due to the flap of rubber restricting the fluid return AND opening the bleeder while the brakes are "stuck" will relieve the pressure and prove this theory.
if then the brakes still didnt free up then the caliper pistons OR the sliding hardware are the next suspects.
if the pads were recently replaced and this syndrome sunsequently followed, I would re-look at the specific work performed...
piston frozen...Just re read that ... replace both calipers AND hoses.... just because they look good outside don't mean nuthing.
if a piston froze then its probable the fluid was not often changed and thus the hoses internally are also victim to the degrading fluid.... hydroscopic fluid and cast iron calipers and wheelcylinders make rust....oxidation... "es no bueno"
if then the brakes still didnt free up then the caliper pistons OR the sliding hardware are the next suspects.
if the pads were recently replaced and this syndrome sunsequently followed, I would re-look at the specific work performed...
piston frozen...Just re read that ... replace both calipers AND hoses.... just because they look good outside don't mean nuthing.
if a piston froze then its probable the fluid was not often changed and thus the hoses internally are also victim to the degrading fluid.... hydroscopic fluid and cast iron calipers and wheelcylinders make rust....oxidation... "es no bueno"
- SMITTY
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Diagonally worn pads are due to lack of maintenance & a "quickie" job by the local mechanic. Nobody takes the time to wire-wheel the crap off the pins & grease the hell out of them. If you do that at every brake job the pads will wear straight as an arrow all the way to the rivets or backing plate. .... But your not supposed to let them go that far.
These days calipers are so cheap it isn't hardly worth the effort to disassemble them. If it were mine, I would - but I'm a notoriously cheap bastard.
These days calipers are so cheap it isn't hardly worth the effort to disassemble them. If it were mine, I would - but I'm a notoriously cheap bastard.
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Hi McGiever
The piston seize could be caused by a number of things heat could cause it,if it free after you pull the banjo bolt, and release the pressure then it could be the hose along with several other things, if it has antilock brakes and has not been flushed then it could be in the modulator it could also be in the master cyl., as far as your pads wearing like they did I would say that your slide need to be pulled and lubed with synthtic brake grease just remember that a little bit gose a long ways, you might want to look at your rotors and make sure they they have not V being thicker at the top then the bottom or visea-versa if you have any questions send me a note.
Take Care
Bill
The piston seize could be caused by a number of things heat could cause it,if it free after you pull the banjo bolt, and release the pressure then it could be the hose along with several other things, if it has antilock brakes and has not been flushed then it could be in the modulator it could also be in the master cyl., as far as your pads wearing like they did I would say that your slide need to be pulled and lubed with synthtic brake grease just remember that a little bit gose a long ways, you might want to look at your rotors and make sure they they have not V being thicker at the top then the bottom or visea-versa if you have any questions send me a note.
Take Care
Bill
- McGiever
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- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Thanks for all the wisdom shared...much appreciated.
I'll be checking all those possibilities out, for sure.
I'll be checking all those possibilities out, for sure.