New Tome Harman Magnum-Start up Issue

 
Pacowy
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Post by Pacowy » Wed. Dec. 21, 2011 4:34 pm

It's been a while since I ran one of these, but if the restrictor plate on the combustion fan is open too far, wouldn't that produce the same symptoms? Maybe try closing that up some?

Mike


 
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MURDOC1
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Post by MURDOC1 » Wed. Dec. 21, 2011 5:40 pm

huntingteacher wrote:Can you guys pull your arm back at all after the feeder motor returns it to the back position? I can pull mine back another good 1/2 in or better and I was thinking that may be why I am not getting my coal advancing.
That is normal, if you were to take it back apart you would see why this is possible...

The pipe that slides over the threaded rod has a weldment on the pusher block end, just another stub of pipe having an I.D. just slightly larger than the O.D. of the long pipe... There is the flat plate having a slot or half-round cut out of it that the adjuster pipe goes through that physically pushes on the backside of the aluminum pusher block itself to advance the pusher, then to return the pusher the flat plate begins its travel in the opposite direction traveling away from the block where it contacts the weldment that is inset approx. 1/2" from the end of the smaller pipe... The block moves to its full back position and if you stopped the feed motor right there and pulled back on the adjuster rod you are pulling the entire block and adjuster assembly back until this 1/2" or so of slack that the weldment is set back is taken up and now the backside of the block is up against the face of the flat plate once again as if it were ready to move forward...

It must be the wet coal...

Also, tell us your startup procedure, how do you get your stove lit? Are you fully covering the entire grate area? Just curious...

 
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Post by huntingteacher » Thu. Dec. 22, 2011 5:39 pm

I haven't established a true start up prodecure as I have only lit it once. I cheat a little and cover the grate with coal and then drive up the road and steal some wood coals out of my father's shop stove and place them on top of the coal. then I put another coffee can of coal on top of the red hot ambers and turn on the combustion blower. I friend of mine says he can start a coal stove in a minute....he uses a heat gun. He says you can buy one for 25 bucks....might be a good investment.

 
mrh61587
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Post by mrh61587 » Mon. Dec. 21, 2015 11:37 am

Can anyone help me.

I just moved and im trying to get my coal stove going and im having issues with the verti flow control box.

I plugged everything individually and everything came on but when plugged into the box I get nothing.

When I turn on the thermostat the distributions and combustion blower lights emulate but the feeder light does not.

I was going to take the box apart and see if theirs a short somewhere or a loose wire

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Mon. Dec. 21, 2015 11:56 am

There is a rocker switch that can turn off the feed motor, is that 'on'. It is located on the same side of the control box as the outlets.

 
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Post by mrh61587 » Mon. Dec. 21, 2015 12:01 pm

Yes that has been turn on and off numerous times. I also tested that switch and it works.

 
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Post by titleist1 » Mon. Dec. 21, 2015 12:15 pm

Fuse OK? I can't remember if that fuses the outlets on the control box or the power to the control box.

So just to clarify, when 'stat activates, you get the two led's on but no power at the outlets for those fans? And the feed motor led never comes on? What are your timer settings?


 
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coalkirk
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Post by coalkirk » Mon. Dec. 21, 2015 12:15 pm

Check your thermostat connections. Put a jumper across the tstat lugs and see if it works then.

 
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Post by mrh61587 » Mon. Dec. 21, 2015 12:33 pm

Yes the fuse is good. That controls the power to the box and thats good.
Thats correct and the timer settings are at 4 and 10.

I was told if you set them to 0 that it would turn on and run continuously but that didn't work either.

What do you mean by putting a jumper in? little knew to using a coal stove.

 
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Post by titleist1 » Mon. Dec. 21, 2015 12:38 pm

he means use a wire between the lugs for the thermostat on the box. short them together to simulate the 'stat calling for heat. if this works as it should but the thermostat does not then the 'stat or wire to the 'stat are probably bad.

 
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Post by titleist1 » Mon. Dec. 21, 2015 12:40 pm

With the led's on but no power at their outlets, it is sounding like a bad control box.

 
mrh61587
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Post by mrh61587 » Mon. Dec. 21, 2015 12:40 pm

would you mind breaking it down for me step by step so I do it correctly?

 
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Post by mrh61587 » Mon. Dec. 21, 2015 12:41 pm

yea thats what im thinking because when I adjust the thermostat the lights on the box come on but its does nothing

 
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Post by titleist1 » Mon. Dec. 21, 2015 12:44 pm

mrh61587 wrote:would you mind breaking it down for me step by step so I do it correctly?
take a wire with alligator clips on both ends. disconnect the thermostat wires from the connectors on the control box and connect a alligator clip on each lug. you just 'jumpered' the thermostat input.

 
mrh61587
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Post by mrh61587 » Mon. Dec. 21, 2015 12:45 pm

what if the thermostat is in the other room?


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