Looking to Season End, What Is Needed for AHS S130 Clean-Out

Looking well ahead, what equipment and brushes will I need to have on hand to do a normal end of season AHS boiler clean-out?

Heres a start.
Efficiency Loss

It will pay you to run as long as you can, and if/when you shut it down, remove all ash and vacuum the interior of the ash cabinet, grease the rollers on the ash plate, lube the two bolts on the ash rod, clean and lube the ashing chain, and carefully remove the fan assembly(after re-installing the shipping bracket) and clean out the cyclone chamber. I have seen dozens of 130's and 260's all caked up solid and wonder how efficient they were...it is a short job, and I recommend you do it in the middle of the heating season on a warm day also. The rope gasket will need to be replaced probably, but you can KNOW just what kind of shape the coal you are using is doing to your boiler. I you are all done for the season a light oil will help the moisture issues throughout the summer. I have burned year round since 1977, so I'm not a good reference on summer shutdown, except that we replace every exhaust stack that sits over the summer......hint, hint! There is a YouTube video of a guy doing a 260 shutdown and cleaning. Don't freak out about 'toxic anything' and a simple dust mask will be you best friend. A Vac with a HEPA filter is what we always use. A light spray with a spray light oil does wonders even in the short term.

You have an investment to protect and this is not like 'putting a car up on blocks'. It will rust away if you choose to be lazy about it. ALWAYS consider the tankless gasket replacement if things even look suspicious. 20 dollars is really cheap money!!! Anti-seize the damned bolts too!! Anti-seize everything in sight,,,,JUST DO IT!!! ....even if you are a sterile quarters freak!!!!

Do you have a link to the vid? Anti-seize??

I'll find the link, and the anti-seize is available at any parts store. Copper bases, alum based...great for anything you want to remove later. I scream at AHS, EFM and Axeman to USE IT BEFORE ASSEMBLY!!!!!! Folks laugh about 'lost skin'...I don't find it funny at all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Anyone who plays mechanic or re-builder (especially an appliance that is an acid producer, like coal burning) has many band-aids on many fingers and swears liberally at those who could have prevented it.

If we all lived down south or in New Mexico where no salted roads and winter crap occur this might not be such an issue. I have to bitch about the damned tankless water heaters on AA's, AHS, EFM's, GJ's, Keystokers leaking issues.......makes a VERY expensive repair to a simple fix.......It's late, we all ate too much today....gotta work in the AM......it will wait.....

I put a 40 watt light bulb in the boiler and leave it on all summer. It's just enough heat to keep moisture away.

Great advice here whistlenut. Thank you kindly!

Freddy, where does the 40 Watt light bulb get placed?

whistlenut wrote:I'll find the link

Don't bother searching for it. I had it bookmarked and now it says the video has been deleted.

lsayre wrote:Great advice here whistlenut. Thank you kindly!

Freddy, where does the 40 Watt light bulb get placed?

Freddy,
What's the best place to place the bulb? At the entrance of the hopper neck into the chamber? At the exhaust hole? Middle of the ash plate?

I was thinking about just coating everything with #2 heating oil/used motor oil mix using a garden sprayer. That way on start up everything would just burn away without any harm.

Mac

I used a drop light with the 40 watt bulb. I just hang it in the inspection door so it's more or less where the flame is during the heating season.