Baro damper?

Is it ok if the T damper section is the first piece of pipe attached to the boiler?
Thanks

It appears that my chiminey is to big to run on low especially on low.

Coalishot, what is the size of the flue in your chimney, how tall is it?

coalmeister wrote:Is it ok if the T damper section is the first piece of pipe attached to the boiler?
Thanks

If you mean the baro in a TEE at the end of the first piece off the unit, absolutely not. The exhaust must never travel directly towards the baro. A TEE off to the side of the first stovepipe is acceptable. Again, I would not put it to close to the appliance as it works best when the flow past it is laminer. The best place is at the center of a long run of straight stovepipe.

This is the idea mock up. This ok?
Thanks

coalmeister, Your going to have fly ash laying in the T it will probable work it's way out of the flapper. It will be a mess you don't want to have to clean up...

Thanks. I will have to make it work farther up the pipe

Yeah, somewhere in the middle of that first section above the 90 will work fine..................

Well I talked to the owner of Alaska stove.
My chimney is 6"x12" i.d. It also goes down 5 feet below where I tap into it with the terracotta thimble. Alaska says this will be a problem in warmer weather especially on low.
I lose draft on low which creates smell and co in house and a way to tell you don't have enough draft (Alaska says take cover off hopper if it is collecting condensate on it you don't have enough draft. mine was). I have since lined chimney in 6" stainless from 2 feet over top down to stainless 90 elbow and stainless into basement. I also filled entire chimney with vermiculite to insulate everything up and add fire protection. Let me tel you vermiculite is hard to find and not cheap. especially when you consider it is just a volcanic material in the ground. I had custom stainless cap made for chimney and wall in basement. I have stainless steel rain topper on flu pipe now. To warm to fire but will post pics and results when I do. The math was done on the size and draft and I don't see any way this will not work other than "bad coal?"
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Total cost for stainless and vermiculite= $840.00.Alaska Liberty stove $2325.00. Way more than I wanted to spend. But I still see payback in 1.5 years including price of stove and I'll be warm. I have 2- 14 seer York Heat pumps with fossil fuel kits and propane back up. I would spend 1k in electric and 4 k in propane this winter. Propane has gotten ridiculous. Of course I suppose the price could go down now pushing my payback out but again I'll be warmer than 67 degrees in house.

When the smart meters hit Pennsylvania in 2011 (or sooner) It will even be saving more. I hope.

ANY BODY KNOW DIFFERENCE BETWEEN RICE COAL AND OILED RICE AND WHICH IS BETTER?

Sounds like oil for me for now on. The rice I have has been rinsed off before i put it in basement but anything to reduce boogers would be great.

Well its cold. Turned on stove with new chimney liner and vermiculite insulation in place. Fired up on 4 (med hi) I get draft out the wazoo. 1.6". I moved weight all the way over and am drafting .05. I think this will suffice If i use to much coal I'll add weight. side of stove is 344 degrees flu 12" up is 288 flu after baro entering chimney is 178.
Will post pic of flu outside tomorrow. Here is my hookup pics.

it is a remarkable difference. i would have never imagined such a difference between burning wood and coal.

Well it ran perfect all night and this morning temps hit almost 60 but not quite today I turned down to #2 and co levels went to 53. It obviously cant burn that low. Now going to try #3 tomorrow. I would have never thought it would be this hard. If still have trouble will be selling 1- 2 1/2 week old Alaska Liberty Coal Stove. my chimney was pulling almost 2. inches w.c. last night with high fire and and baro held shut to test. I had to add weight to it to reduce draft to .05 and now today with low fire and draft at .02 it lets out co. Starting to wonder if coal is bad?????

Coalishot, Have you done the calibration on your manometer? Leaking CO with a reading of -.02 does not sound quite right. Where is your manometer tube placed, in your stove pipe or in the stove?