Install a Barometric Damper on a Stoker Stove/Furnace?
manometer is calibrated . It is a commercial grade digital hand held. Also have commercial grade co detector. I have access to all professional tools. I don't know that it leaked at .02 as /that is where the reading was when I noticed late in the day. Draft could have gotten lower. When I noticed it at .02 readings were 53. Also coal bin top was full of condensate as was bin. This is a sign of little to no draft according to alaska. I have the mechanical manometer installed at all times 12" above fire. It seems when u run this thing to ow its just not enough heat to create proper draft. Will call Alaska again on Monday cause I am out of ideals. Right now as I type this I am drafting .06 on Medium fire. Baro is opened. I think I am going to make this my new setting. Might be u cant run this thing real low.
Any ideals appreciated.
Still havent ruled out coal problem. I bought it in bulk and it was stored outside uncovered at supplier.
Any ideals appreciated.
Still havent ruled out coal problem. I bought it in bulk and it was stored outside uncovered at supplier.
- Dallas
- Member
- Posts: 746
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 12, 2007 12:14 pm
- Location: NE-PA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Modified Russo C-35
- Other Heating: Oil Hot Air
Without going back, did you have any other exhausts running? Was the range hood exhaust running? Bathroom exhaust? Dryer? Was there anything else burning? Hot water heater? Furnace? Is the house real tight?
- CoalHeat
- Member
- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
This is an interesting one, it should be drafting well now. Hmmmmm...
nothing else running. opened basement window no change. Yes running perfect now on medium .06 blue flame 345 side stove 280 stack 12" up 168 stack after baro.
It just doesnt seem to generate enough heat on lower settings to create enough draft. hopper id underside collects condensate as does bin itself on low.
I have now 28 feet of 6" liner. 20 of which is in chimney insulated with vermiculite. rain cap topper storm collar all installed.
I can shorten chimney by 4 feet and still clear roof by code if I desire.
Also
When I light up there is little to no dfraft amd when I close door and wait for fire to build and create draft some smoke leaks through door. I know with draft this is no problem. But would expect better seal on door ?
It just doesnt seem to generate enough heat on lower settings to create enough draft. hopper id underside collects condensate as does bin itself on low.
I have now 28 feet of 6" liner. 20 of which is in chimney insulated with vermiculite. rain cap topper storm collar all installed.
I can shorten chimney by 4 feet and still clear roof by code if I desire.
Also
When I light up there is little to no dfraft amd when I close door and wait for fire to build and create draft some smoke leaks through door. I know with draft this is no problem. But would expect better seal on door ?
in dead of winter I see no problems b ut on cold nights with mild days like now. I don't want to have to shut down every morning ans relight every night.
Maybe a seal is bad in the stove.
Got to call Alaska again.
I wonder if they have a warranty service department.
Makes me wish I bought a direct vent power vent stove. No problems then.
Perhaps the Harmon
Maybe a seal is bad in the stove.
Got to call Alaska again.
I wonder if they have a warranty service department.
Makes me wish I bought a direct vent power vent stove. No problems then.
Perhaps the Harmon
- Dallas
- Member
- Posts: 746
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 12, 2007 12:14 pm
- Location: NE-PA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Modified Russo C-35
- Other Heating: Oil Hot Air
Is your baro damper closing when the fire is at idle? Are there any windows open upstairs? You can always go back and read "my stove story", to see if anything clicks.
- CoalHeat
- Member
- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
With that chimney and the liner there shouldn't be any problems. Something's wrong somewhere, just got to find it.
an hour ago I lowered it to 2.5 which is medium low. the side of stove came down to 125 the flu 12" up is 112 the is dead on at .04 baro closed. The lid of the coal bin is collecting condensate again and the coil in the bin is also.
Can this coal be no good??????????????????????????????????
Although Alaska said condensate would form with inadequate draft.
I am setting up instruments to measure static pressure in house and difference when doors open and close. It shouldnt be this hard.
I woulld hate to put and inducer on this just what I need another motor to run.
I unpluged my blower to see what stove temps come up to and if condensate disappears at this setting. .04 is a lot of draft.
Can this coal be no good??????????????????????????????????
Although Alaska said condensate would form with inadequate draft.
I am setting up instruments to measure static pressure in house and difference when doors open and close. It shouldnt be this hard.
I woulld hate to put and inducer on this just what I need another motor to run.
I unpluged my blower to see what stove temps come up to and if condensate disappears at this setting. .04 is a lot of draft.
- rockwood
- Member
- Posts: 1381
- Joined: Sun. Sep. 21, 2008 7:37 pm
- Location: Utah
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Stokermatic
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Rockwood Stoveworks Circulator
- Baseburners & Antiques: Malleable/Monarch Range
- Coal Size/Type: Lump and stoker + Blaschak-stove size
coalishot
Is there any part of your house that is higher than the top of the chimney?
Is there any part of your house that is higher than the top of the chimney?
- CoalHeat
- Member
- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Probably would be worth trying different coal, it sure wouldn't hurt. And no, it shouldn't be this difficult.
- Dallas
- Member
- Posts: 746
- Joined: Mon. Nov. 12, 2007 12:14 pm
- Location: NE-PA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Modified Russo C-35
- Other Heating: Oil Hot Air
I'm trying to think, what may have really helped my poor draft situation.
One thing, which I did, not for improved draft, but for heat circulation, was the addition the dual window fan, blowing from the first floor to the lower level stove room. This may tend to pressurize the stove room and help the draft in the stove/chimney.
One thing, which I did, not for improved draft, but for heat circulation, was the addition the dual window fan, blowing from the first floor to the lower level stove room. This may tend to pressurize the stove room and help the draft in the stove/chimney.