Baro damper?

YOu can see the weight bar adjustments are a bit different angles, probably the gas slows down in a horizontal run and creates less draft, therefore, you have to adjust the weight accordingly.

Exactly, the vertical moves the weight closer to the hinge pin centerline as you adjust. This changes the profile of the flapper opening to a lighter touch to match the higher gas speed you would find in a vertical run.

The vertical also moves further below the counter weight in the back.

I also feel envious of that stylish black color. Definitely looks better than mine.

W'nC, I do believe your weight is on the wrong side for a vertical flue install. If it's like mine, that's the horizontal side. You'll find an "H" and "V" on the plates.

Or, is that considered a "horizontal install" if it's at the end on the horizontal?

Dallas wrote:W'nC, I do believe your weight is on the wrong side for a vertical flue install. If it's like mine, that's the horizontal side. You'll find an "H" and "V" on the plates.

Or, is that considered a "horizontal install" if it's at the end on the horizontal?

Dallas what wood ncoal has is the correct setup his is a Horizontal set up left to right pipe or one on a incline is a Horizontal pipe Vertical is straight up and down pipe

I believe in this case it is neither, this due to the fact that it is in an elbow, it is actually both. Someone was chatting about a screw to help balance their baro better. This could be why. While this configuration will obviously work, it isn't ideal as the weights are tuned for either a vertical or horizontal pipe and usually centered in it. With this we have a vertical, horizontal and the 90*, it could take a hatfull of paperclips to get this one dialed in.

When I installed it, I thought about whether I should set the weight on the horizontal or vertical side, I tried both, and settled on this. Actually I took the easy way out with the tee where it is, I would have had to locate the tee on the h or v pipes or cut the straight pipes and use the adapter. Either way, I set it up using a manometer, the reading stays at the set point, currently at -.05" WC.

It also makes it easy to clean the accumulated fly ash out of the horizontal portion of the pipe.

Wood'nCoal wrote:Actually I took the easy way out with the tee where it is, I would have had to locate the tee on the h or v pipes or cut the straight pipes and use the adapter. Either way, I set it up using a manometer, the reading stays at the set point, currently at -.05" WC.

It also makes it easy to clean the accumulated fly ash out of the horizontal portion of the pipe.

And that is all that matters, that it performs well. It is a very common install, I may do mine that way the next time I repipe.

coaledsweat wrote:

Wood'nCoal wrote:Actually I took the easy way out with the tee where it is, I would have had to locate the tee on the h or v pipes or cut the straight pipes and use the adapter. Either way, I set it up using a manometer, the reading stays at the set point, currently at -.05" WC.

It also makes it easy to clean the accumulated fly ash out of the horizontal portion of the pipe.

And that is all that matters, that it performs well. It is a very common install, I may do mine that way the next time I repipe.

Thanks, I was beginning to think the installation was wrong, and I should relocate it to the vertical pipe behind the stove, but the draft reading stays constant, and it's easy to check for accumulated fly ash with a flashlight. The same holds true with the tee I installed at the stove outlet with the cap on one end instead of an elbow. The stove has a habit of accumulating ash at the outlet, behind the baffle. I can remove the cap and vacuum it out, instead of the entire pipe.

I just need to remedy that unsightly color!

I've reached a point where I'm trying to find ways to make things easier!

That is why I may switch mine around, my boiler has to be down and remove the stovepipe to clean it. Two TEEs and I can vac it when the fire is idleing.

The RC installation instructions do indicate that where I have the baro is OK.
I really fired up the stove this morning, it was chilly in here. As I said, I'm running at -.05" of WC.

I was on the Field Controls site, I discovered that the Model RC is available in black as the Model RCBT. I will order a RCBT and swap out the RC on the Harman with the new sleek & stylish RCBT. I'll use the RC on the Alaska.

I am quoting the Barometric Draft Control explanation from the Field Controls website:

"Static pressure of the cool air (1) Illustration A exerts pressure on the outside of the furnace or boiler, the breaching, and stack. The pressure difference between the room air and heated gas (air) causes products of combustion (2) to flow (draft) through the unit and rise through the breaching and chimney.
Room temperature air (3) enters through the barometric draft control (4) in the precise amount needed to overcome the excess drafts caused by temperature variations, wind fluctuations, and barometric pressure changes.
Combustion of fuel is complete and the process is stabilized. The velocity of combustion gases through the heat exchanger is slowed so more heat is extracted. The unit operates more efficiently, reliably, and requires less maintenance."

I was researching this because I expect to find about the same high draft potential with the chimney I will be using for the Alaska as I have with the chimney the Harman vents into.

I noticed after shaking and refilling that the new fire was really cooking along. Then I noticed the tab on the baro bumping up against the stop. I feel the tab is mainly there to prevent the baffle from reversing during a sudden downdraft. I bent the tab a little straighter, now the baffle is opening more. These photos are with a full fire, compare the baro position to the photos I posted a few posts back.

The fire was about medium heat (300 degrees on the front of the stove, both burner running)

I experimented last night, the wind was blowing pretty good and the baro was flapping away and 1/3-1/4 open most of the time. It was maintaining around .04-.05...

So, I figured I would hold it closed for a minute or so, and the Manonmeter shot up to around .08-.12!!! and stayed there! and the flue temps went up 50-100+ degrees!!

WOW, this this really works and think of all the heat going up the chimney without one!