Baro damper?

Tom,

I actually took the baro off on full burn and my readings stayed at .04-.05. That was just the baro and not the reducer. So I know the 7" is working good.

Hey it was 60 degree the other day before I hooked up the boiler and the draft of my chimney at the thimble would put a candle out!

I got draft baby!


Its just the flames of my fire are being sucked to the back of the firebox. Picture's I've seen on here show them going straight up.

I've noticed on my baro if I have the weight all the way to the right my draft reading will stay at negative .03-.04 without any movement of the flapper. Now if I move it almost all the way to the left I'll get the same reading but the flapper will move and open and the reading will move around more in the negative side of the manometer. I have been trying to "fine tune" this so I'm getting the most heat from my stove with loosing as little as possible. Last night the winds picked up very hard and my flapper opened up all the way and the reading dropped right off the scale beyond negative .06. What is the best way to have the baro setup, so it moves some or rarely moves at all? Both ways I can get a good reading but when it moves the reading bounces around a bit.

You should set it about .02-.04 for most stoves and check it with a Draft Gauge. It should move/open when the wind is blowing and/or it's really cold out. Moving the weight to the right (more draft), then it will not open as much, but you loose heat up the chimney.

Mine stays open about 1/4-1/3 most of the time to maintain proper draft on the stove, yes sometimes it creeps up to .05-.06 but it is open as far as it will go. But without it, I would running .08-1.0 and wasting heat up the chimney. I have closed it off to check it and the draft gauge shoots way up!

Thanks Dave. I moved more to the left and can see it fluttering now with the wind while maintaining at minus .03. The thing is so lite I can blow on it and get it to open from a foot away. That's either good or I'm just full of hot air

That';s the way it's supposed to work, that's how I check mine, I just blow on it to make sure it doesn't get stuck, which it does sometimes....

The back of the flapper also needs cleaned, it will build up with ash and cause it to gain more weight and throw your settings off a bit.

It's nice watching it for a few minutes and seeing it move around a bit. Good knowing I'm not wasting any heat up the chimney. Thanks Dave.

I noticed since I readjusted my baro (all the way to the left) that now when I seem to pretty much be in a full burn (450* hottest it's been so far) that not only is my burn hotter but my stove pipe temperature using a thermometer right above my baro (27 1/2 inches above the stove) is now 17* cooler then it was before.

I am installing a Baker fireplace insert this weekend. It looks like I have no options for a baro. My chimney sucks like a shopvac pretty consistantly although high winds will increase it. Am I stuck with just constantly adjusting my stove controls?

Why no option for a baro? From your description of your chimney, you sure will need a baro damper. Is the Baker so large that you can't reach to work behind it once in place? I just helped install a Harman on a hearth in front of a fireplace with a friend. We came right off of the stove with a baro T and then into a flexible liner. The Harman mark I is small enough that we could reach around and get screws in the vent and adjust the baro.

The flue comes out the back of the insert. I wanted a cleanout T right off the stove I would have to put a baro T on top of that then conect to the liner by that time I'm up above the fireplace opening, seems a little tight. Maby I'l give it a try before I give up. I was also concerned about it not having enough air suply to draw from once it is enclosed behind shroud.

Pete69 wrote:The flue comes out the back of the insert. I wanted a cleanout T right off the stove I would have to put a baro T on top of that then conect to the liner by that time I'm up above the fireplace opening, seems a little tight. Maby I'l give it a try before I give up. I was also concerned about it not having enough air suply to draw from once it is enclosed behind shroud.

Would it be possible to put the baro in the clean out T? and still use the vacuum through the baro to clean out the fly ash. I don't know if this set up would be without issue so maybe someone else will chime in. Also does your fireplace have an ash dump in the floor? you could use this to supply air to the baro.

No ash dump in the floor. Maybe I could drill some holes in the shroud on the bottom or something. There seems to be enough room below the cleanout T to conect a baro T below that, and cap the bottom. Don't know if that will cause any issues.

Quick question, I'm looking for the instructions for my baro and can't seem to locate them... how do you move the weight that is on the bracket... do you unscrew it or what.. tried it but that sucker is really on there... don't want to mess it up.. the knob has ridges all the way around it, so I would think it unscrews, then move it, then re-tighten.. does that sound right?

GettingStoked wrote:Quick question, I'm looking for the instructions for my baro and can't seem to locate them... how do you move the weight that is on the bracket... do you unscrew it or what.. tried it but that sucker is really on there... don't want to mess it up.. the knob has ridges all the way around it, so I would think it unscrews, then move it, then re-tighten.. does that sound right?

Yes you are correct. remember lefty loosy, righty tighty

If you can get the small tube from the WD40 or equal behind the slot, shoot a bit of lube into the threads, might help.

But the Knurled Knobs just has to unscrew (CCW counter clockwise) a little bit to make the weight slide lighter or heavier depending on how yours is mounted.

If on the RIGHT side, moving the weight to towards the middle, less draft (-.02) on your stove, the other way towards the outside is more draft (.08+) on your stove. most stokers stove operate around the -.04. To calibrate and set it up, you need a draft gauge.