Baro damper?

ok, so I really put some effort into the weight and it gave. So and by the way, I do have a newly installed manometer. The manometer was reading .05 with the baro closed, temps in the teens to 20's with slight wind... So with some advise, and a good hardy burn this night I moved the weight towards the center thus opening the baro more and getting a .04 reading. Its currently -6* outside and 82* in the basement and 71* upstairs and 64* 1st floor back bedrooms... (almost perfect). The strange thing is, even though I move the manometer from .05 to .04, the basement went up 2* from 80 to 82 and as well the upstairs went up 2* from 70 to 72 almost immediatly after making the change. I really didn't think it would make THAT much a difference... but I can see a big change in the baro... it went from slightly open to almost 3/4 open steady. It seems like a good thing?

Thanks

YES, you are now decreasing a bit of draft from the stove, therefore, keeping MORE heat in the stove....Works great when adjusted correctly! Probably burn a tad less coal too! Enjoy it!

When the temps where in the single digits and negatives.. I moved the weight towards the center and it opend the baro and lowered the mano to .04. When the temp warmed up a bit to the teens and 20's I noticed the baro went down to .03. So I backed moved the weight down towards the edge and that brought it back to .04. Is this an ongoing thing, or should I left it at .03 with the warmer temps?
Thanks

I wouldn't mess with it unless I had smell back in the house... and the fire stayed going.

GettingStoked wrote:When the temps where in the single digits and negatives.. I moved the weight towards the center and it opend the baro and lowered the mano to .04. When the temp warmed up a bit to the teens and 20's I noticed the baro went down to .03. So I backed moved the weight down towards the edge and that brought it back to .04. Is this an ongoing thing, or should I left it at .03 with the warmer temps?
Thanks

What I did, was disconnect the tube from the manometer. The fluid went below 0 so even though I zeroed it out to start after about a month it changed.. not sure if it was a settleling in thing or what.. so I re-zeroed the fluid and hooked the tube back up and it went to .04 and it has pretty much stayed that way. So now I disconnect the tube ever few weeks and make sure its still at 0. only takes a second.

LeonMSPT wrote:I wouldn't mess with it unless I had smell back in the house... and the fire stayed going.

GettingStoked wrote:When the temps where in the single digits and negatives.. I moved the weight towards the center and it opend the baro and lowered the mano to .04. When the temp warmed up a bit to the teens and 20's I noticed the baro went down to .03. So I backed moved the weight down towards the edge and that brought it back to .04. Is this an ongoing thing, or should I left it at .03 with the warmer temps?
Thanks

GettingStoked wrote:What I did, was disconnect the tube from the manometer. The fluid went below 0 so even though I zeroed it out to start after about a month it changed.. not sure if it was a settleling in thing or what.. so I re-zeroed the fluid and hooked the tube back up and it went to .04 and it has pretty much stayed that way. So now I disconnect the tube ever few weeks and make sure its still at 0. only takes a second.

Manometers should be calibrated to zero every time you use them.

I agree, I had been using mine for a few weeks before I decided to see where the 0 was. I guess it should be stated that you should check your 0 on your manometer every so often wether you have it hooked up continuesly or only hook it up every so often.

coaledsweat wrote:

GettingStoked wrote:What I did, was disconnect the tube from the manometer. The fluid went below 0 so even though I zeroed it out to start after about a month it changed.. not sure if it was a settleling in thing or what.. so I re-zeroed the fluid and hooked the tube back up and it went to .04 and it has pretty much stayed that way. So now I disconnect the tube ever few weeks and make sure its still at 0. only takes a second.

Manometers should be calibrated to zero every time you use them.

Hi Guys,

Back around Jan 19th I was asking about buying a baro and how expensive there were. Someone out there in the forum was able to provide a list of companies that sold Field Control baros for a lot less than I was planning to pay. I can't find that list now. If this strikes a bell with anyone or if you know of a company that sells the FC baro could you please PM me or reply here. Thanks, Lisa

About the cheapest i've seen. http://www.patriot-supply.com/products/ ... m.cfm/1940

Razzler wrote:About the cheapest i've seen. http://www.patriot-supply.com/products/ ... m.cfm/1940

That is about right but you will pay for shipping. You should be able to pick one up from your local heating and ventilation supply house for about the same money.

hey got a quick baro question. my baro weight is set on the correct side (on the right side) with the weight slid all the way to the left. this gave me a draft of .05 to .07, sometimes even higher. the flap would be 3/4 open at this setting. now the flap barely even budges, it kinda opens but not really. i did take off the baro and cleaned it, had some build up, but nothing has changed in performance. what gives? i did clean the chimney outside a week or so ago. there is some fly ash in the black pipe between the stove and the chimney, but not enough, i think, to affect performance of the baro. any ideas or suggestions would be great. thanks for keeping me warm this winter.
John Mud

mudman wrote:hey got a quick baro question. my baro weight is set on the correct side (on the right side) with the weight slid all the way to the left. this gave me a draft of .05 to .07, sometimes even higher. the flap would be 3/4 open at this setting. now the flap barely even budges, it kinda opens but not really. i did take off the baro and cleaned it, had some build up, but nothing has changed in performance. what gives? i did clean the chimney outside a week or so ago. there is some fly ash in the black pipe between the stove and the chimney, but not enough, i think, to affect performance of the baro. any ideas or suggestions would be great. thanks for keeping me warm this winter.
John Mud

Warmer weather will reduce your draft as the differences between outside and inside temps are getting closer together. The greater the difference, the higher the draft as a rule.

yeah, i have heard that before. i thought about that, but yesterday was even around 20 degrees. not saying you are wrong, but it was chilly here. it was nineteen this mourning too. anything else maybe?

Grates can tend to hold bits of coal and clinkers, eventually starving the fire. Have you a long pick to run through the grate from below to insure they are free of debris?

yes i have one. the whole bed is nice and has that nice red orange glow. i use it every time to get that nice red glow from underneath by poking up from underneath. the bed of coal is fairly new. i was burning wood last weekend and switched over to coal monday night. it has got to be something easy that im overlooking