Baro damper?

My experience has been that burning coal takes less air than burning wood...

mudman wrote:yes i have one. the whole bed is nice and has that nice red orange glow. i use it every time to get that nice red glow from underneath by poking up from underneath. the bed of coal is fairly new. i was burning wood last weekend and switched over to coal monday night. it has got to be something easy that im overlooking

yeah i have noticed that before. but lately, except for the past few days low temps, with either burning wood or coal it hardly flaps open at all. right now i took the baro off and i am soaking it in a water bleach solution trying to get the thin caked on layer of creosote or whatever else it may be off. i will keep ya posted. thanks
John mud

Chimneys usually don't pull worth a darn once the temperature comes up above 40 degrees or so. Less draft, less flappin...

It's like the mouth... more flappin = more draft... well, it's different than that.

mudman wrote:yeah i have noticed that before. but lately, except for the past few days low temps, with either burning wood or coal it hardly flaps open at all. right now i took the baro off and i am soaking it in a water bleach solution trying to get the thin caked on layer of creosote or whatever else it may be off. i will keep ya posted. thanks
John mud

LeonMSPT wrote:Chimneys usually don't pull worth a darn once the temperature comes up above 40 degrees or so. Less draft, less flappin...

It's like the mouth... more flappin = more draft... well, it's different than that.

mudman wrote:yeah i have noticed that before. but lately, except for the past few days low temps, with either burning wood or coal it hardly flaps open at all. John mud

I noticed that my baro is hardly moving as well but I'm not worried about. As the outdoor temperatures go up the draft will come down. Looking at my stove top and after baro temperatures I see they are consistent with my stove's normal running mode. My fire is burning well so while the draft may be lower, it's still there. My fire is at idle most of the day now anyway so I don't need a strong draft at this point in time. Lisa

lowfog01 wrote:My fire is at idle most of the day now anyway so I don't need a strong draft at this point in time.

My theory is, in warm weather like this with the stove idling, the coal bed makes its own draft within itself. Only minimal chimney draft is needed to draw off the combustion products, which are low volume due to the very slow burn rate. The baro will never flutter unless the wind is blowing. There is no reason to adjust the baro, since the baro can only reduce the draft, it can never make more draft than is inherent in the flue temperature.

Im getting my stove pipe together to hookup my LL (top vent) Pocono the i picked up. I have the Field Control 6" RC baro damper.
My question is can i place it a T that make the 90 turn from vertical to horizontal. (like woodncoal)



Or do i need in after the 90 in the horizontal section?

This is right from Field Controls. http://www.fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php Read about 3/4 of the way down.

Draft Control (Installation Options)

"Recommended Locations for Field Draft Controls
For gas-fired equipment, the preferred location of the control is on the bull head tee. This location provides maximum relief of downdrafts with minimum positive pressure. (See Figure 1, Diagram A-C)
With oil or solid fuels, the bull head tee is not recommended, so locate the control as shown. (See Figure 1, Diagram D-J) These locations are acceptable for gas units as well. Except on forced draft systems, locate the control as close as possible to the furnace or boiler, at least 12" beyond a stack switch on oil-fired units, and at least 18" from a combustible ceiling or wall."

Thanks for the clarification.
But out of curiosity would anyone have any insite as to why that location should not be used. Something to do with CO leaking back out ??

Yes, that is basically it. It sometimes can be used in a bullhead TEE if you have a good draft as many members here run that install. It will however alter the plate's curve in relation to the draft. Not really a big deal. Remember, Field Controls is looking at it from an engineering standpoint. At the very small draft/pressure differential they run at, why take a chance? You could install a bullhead with a cap for service, and install the baro in a straight length where it is preferred if you so desire.

Hi,
I have a field controls type RC Baro that came with my old Alaska Stoker II but was never used by prev. owner. Its missing the adjusting weight.
Can anyone tell me The diameter and length of the weight so i can make one close. Once i get it made i can dial it in with my manometer.
Thanks,
Mark

Where are you? I think I have an old one kicking around here somewhere.

Add some washers to it with a thumb screw for weight. Doesn't have to be much.

The TEE bullhead mounting of the baro damper is not in a straight flow path. The straighter the flow path, the better the accuracy of the device. If flow has to bend around a 90 corner like a TEE, it can slow down, reducing the draft and/or leak out if it hits the tee wrong and causing erroneous readings.

Granted, it does work in the TEE for some people, but for optimum efficiency, should be in a straight section whether horiz. or vert.

I live in Sykesville , Pa zip code 15865. close to mile 100 on I-80.
If its too much bother to ship i would be happy knowing the dimensions.
Thanks,
Mark

If I find it when I get home, it's yours.

Its a round steel nut that measures 3/4" in diameter and is knurled. It is 5/8" thick and is mounted by a small carriage bolt.
PM your info if you want it.