Baro damper?

What size is your pipe? 6"? Maybe increase the Baro to 7 or 8" with reducer pipes, so it can pull MORE air from the room and keep draft more constant on the stove if you have that much draft. Are you measuring and calibrating your baro and stove with a draft gauge? It's needs to set correctly.

The manual dampers are not normally recommended (Huge discussion on it in another threads), BUT, make sure if you do decide, put it between the stove and the baro, NEVER after the baro, since the fumes could leak out the baro if you close it down too much and you Definitely don't want CO fumes into the house.

I have about 20 feet of 6" stove pipe going from the stove to the chimney. I have the baro about two and a half feet back from the stove. I did not think about the larger damper. I could find an 8" and put that on. As far as the duel manual dampers my thinking there was that if I just have one between the stove and the baro then if I get these high winds again it wont pull on the stove but I will still have a vacuum in my room sucking all my room heat up the chimney. I have 5 CO detectors in rooms down and up in the house.

Thanks again,
Glenn

grobinson2 wrote:Oddly enough I had one of those little wint-o-green mints laying on the table and after eating that I thought it would be a good idea to see just how strong the air was going up the chimney. I put the wrapper in front of the damper and it sucked the damn thing right up the chimney!! Obviously I had a large vacuum sucking all of my heat right out of my house all night thus the rather cold temperature when I got up this morning. So... How do I stop this from happening?

I think you need a manometer so you actually know what is going on in your chimney. You may need a bigger baro. Stop worrying about the baro robbing heat from your home, it is what it steals from the appliance that should be your only concern. It is better to give up 80* room air than 3-400*+ air from an appliance. Sacrificing room air is a tiny cost in comparison to what the chimney can rob from the appliance.
A manual damper won't help you and will give you CO problems at low fire rates, I would avoid it.

Agreed... Just sent a PM about the loaner program. I am not really worried about the co issue as I have detectors all over the place in this house. I am also not too worried about burning a ton of coal although like just about anyone else out there I would prefure to burn less with a greater amount of heat being given off. In this case though I am more concerned about my stove being 700+ F all night. Also I am well aware that there are worse things in life then waking up to an ice cold house however that issue gets pushed WAY UP the list when there is a very pissed off women trying to get ready for work at 0400hrs and the house is freezing cold. I really like the idea of two manual dampers with one being above and below the baro. I would only use the one above the baro if we have suvier winds that day or night. The dampers that I have sitting here are the kind that are not solid int he middle and leave about a half inch between the damper ring and the inside of the pipe so even with it in the closed position gas and even smoke goes right buy it allbeit a little bit slower. My problem is that I have such high chimneys and on top of that I am on a rather large hill so even on a calm day I have one hell of a draft. This is also the only stove on this chimney.

Thanks again guys,
Glenn

I asked a local friend about the manometer. This was his response. HAHHAA

I can tell u how to do it. You'll need a medium height step ladder position next to the stove pipe climb up the ladder, drop your trousers and press your ass against the auto damper. If your eyeballs get sucked in, your have too much draft!! ohn


Glenn

grobinson2 wrote:I really like the idea of two manual dampers with one being above and below the baro. I would only use the one above the baro if we have suvier winds that day or night.

You should not need a manual damper with a coal appliance, if you do, it would be a most rare occurance.
The manual damper after the baro is a good way to kill yourself and your family. I respectfully request that you remove it immediately to prevent that from happening. If you use it or it swings closed by itself, your home will fill with CO escaping from the baro.

grobinson2 wrote:I asked a local friend about the manometer. This was his response. HAHHAA

You need to find a new friend. The pressure differences between the stovepipe and room are extremly small when dealing with coal appliances, it would not make a gnat's eyelash flicker. You need a manometer, not a step ladder.

HAHHAHAHAHHAHAHHAA... Obviously a joke. As for the manual damper above the baro... I see your point. I will diffidently try just one at first having that between the stove and the baro.

Thanks again guys,
Glenn

Scroll all the way down to the bottom of the page, it shows you a chart so you can see what size barometric damper you need for the size of your chimney.

http://www.fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php

I see grobinsons point of view. My baro is open at anything off of idle. And yes you can put in a larger baro but it is still sucking "X" amount of air out of the house. He and I both need a chimney that drafts less.

Rick,
Thank you!!!! Now what did you end up doing? Amanda (The Boss) did not like my quick fix of just doing away with the chimny and venting the stove into the living room. )

Thanks,
Glenn

How about a chimney cap?
Still need to check the draft with a manometer first...
The proper cap will reduce a 'too strong' draft...

I have a chimney cap and my chimney still sucks too much.

Gents,

The instructions with mine say not to mount it in a tee at the top of a verticle run leading into the flue thimble. They say to use another tee in the verticle.

I'll have a tee right on my Kaa-2's outlet, and 4' or so verticle, then 18" or so near flat and into the thimble. I'd really like to put it in a tee at the top. It would allow easy clean-out. What will it hurt?

Thanks in advance.

Dave

dave brode wrote:I'd really like to put it in a tee at the top. It would allow easy clean-out.

Put a tee there, with a plug in the end of it for clean-out. Then put the baro where it belongs.
Having said that, I believe some people DO mount the baro as you are suggesting, and are satisfied with it. My inclination would be to mount it as the supplier recommends. Better performance, maybe, when the flue gases are passing by in a straight pipe? Or less likelihood of flue gases escaping into the room? And, I think they say the closer to the stove outlet, the better.

rberq wrote: Better performance, maybe, when the flue gases are passing by in a straight pipe? Or less likelihood of flue gases escaping into the room?

Correct on both counts.