Install a Barometric Damper on a Stoker Stove/Furnace?

 
User avatar
dave brode
Member
Posts: 478
Joined: Fri. Jan. 15, 2010 5:47 pm
Location: Frostburg, Maryland [western]
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-2
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: used to have a 5 section Red Square
Coal Size/Type: rice anthracite

Post by dave brode » Tue. Jul. 13, 2010 11:31 pm

Ok, guys, will do.

Thanks much.

Dave


 
DocDT
New Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu. Aug. 25, 2011 4:51 pm
Location: Andover,OH

Post by DocDT » Sat. Sep. 10, 2011 10:04 am

Just had to replace my whole exhaust pipe on my Koker stove. Should I hunt down someone with a meter to zero my baro. in to the correct setting or just get it in close? Thanks!

 
User avatar
sterling40man
Member
Posts: 1645
Joined: Sat. May. 03, 2008 11:52 am
Location: Northern Maine
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker K6

Post by sterling40man » Sat. Sep. 10, 2011 2:49 pm

DocDT wrote:Just had to replace my whole exhaust pipe on my Koker stove. Should I hunt down someone with a meter to zero my baro. in to the correct setting or just get it in close? Thanks!
Just get it close for now. Use the numbers on the baro and set the weight nob at 2 or 3......then when you have time borrow a manometer from someone. Stokers should run between .02-.04 on a manometer. I set my baro at 2 on the scale and then set up the manometer. There is usually only minimal adjustment to the knob after that.

 
User avatar
I'm On Fire
Member
Posts: 3918
Joined: Thu. Jun. 10, 2010 9:34 am
Location: Vernon, New Jersey
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machines DS-1600 Hot Air Circulator

Post by I'm On Fire » Sat. Sep. 10, 2011 7:55 pm


 
DocDT
New Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Thu. Aug. 25, 2011 4:51 pm
Location: Andover,OH

Post by DocDT » Mon. Sep. 12, 2011 11:19 pm

Good idea.!!!!! Thanks and done deal.

 
User avatar
no74falcon
Member
Posts: 142
Joined: Fri. Jan. 01, 2010 9:39 pm
Location: Erieville, N.Y.
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: 2) Leisure Line Pioneers, 1) Keystoker
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: 1) Hitzer 82FA, 1) Newmac WG100

Post by no74falcon » Fri. Sep. 16, 2011 8:58 pm

First time I have installed a Baro when I put in my Channing III. I have the weight all the way out and it only opens if I have the stove cranked up real good. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!

 
User avatar
I'm On Fire
Member
Posts: 3918
Joined: Thu. Jun. 10, 2010 9:34 am
Location: Vernon, New Jersey
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machines DS-1600 Hot Air Circulator

Post by I'm On Fire » Sun. Sep. 18, 2011 4:00 pm

no74falcon wrote:First time I have installed a Baro when I put in my Channing III. I have the weight all the way out and it only opens if I have the stove cranked up real good. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!
When you say all the way out which side to you have it on? How do you have the baro orientated? Do you had a manometer?

You could put the weight more to the middle, around the 4.


 
User avatar
no74falcon
Member
Posts: 142
Joined: Fri. Jan. 01, 2010 9:39 pm
Location: Erieville, N.Y.
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: 2) Leisure Line Pioneers, 1) Keystoker
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: 1) Hitzer 82FA, 1) Newmac WG100

Post by no74falcon » Sun. Sep. 18, 2011 6:41 pm

I'm On Fire wrote:
no74falcon wrote:First time I have installed a Baro when I put in my Channing III. I have the weight all the way out and it only opens if I have the stove cranked up real good. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!
When you say all the way out which side to you have it on? How do you have the baro orientated? Do you had a manometer?

You could put the weight more to the middle, around the 4.
I'm sorry for not providing enough info. It is a Field Controls B34 so there are no numbers. It only has a thumb screw to run the weight in or out. The bottom of the baro is 12 3/4" from the top of the stove in the verticle section. I have everything plumb so not sure what is going on. Sorry, almost forgot, no manometer.

 
User avatar
coaledsweat
Site Moderator
Posts: 13761
Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Post by coaledsweat » Sun. Sep. 18, 2011 6:56 pm

no74falcon wrote:First time I have installed a Baro when I put in my Channing III. I have the weight all the way out and it only opens if I have the stove cranked up real good. What am I doing wrong? Thanks!
Probably nothing, you can't tell what is going on without a manometer.

 
rberq
Member
Posts: 6442
Joined: Mon. Apr. 16, 2007 9:34 pm
Location: Central Maine
Hand Fed Coal Stove: DS Machine 1300 with hopper
Coal Size/Type: Blaschak Anthracite Nut
Other Heating: Oil hot water radiators (fuel oil); propane

Post by rberq » Sun. Sep. 18, 2011 8:07 pm

no74falcon wrote:I have the weight all the way out and it only opens if I have the stove cranked up real good.
All the way out -- that is, the disk-shaped weight as far as it will go from the swinging plate -- is the position that requires the highest draft to open. So, it makes sense that it would open only when the stove is cranked up. As you adjust the weight closer to the damper plate, it should open at lower drafts. You can use a manometer to set whatever draft is recommended for your stove. Or you can use trial and error over a period of days or weeks to get a workable setting. If you set too high a draft you will be wasting heat up the chimney. If you set too low a draft, the stove may be sluggish and not respond quickly when you add new coal or want more heat. My stove recommends .06 to .10 draft. It will burn at lower settings, but it is not as manageable.

 
User avatar
no74falcon
Member
Posts: 142
Joined: Fri. Jan. 01, 2010 9:39 pm
Location: Erieville, N.Y.
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: 2) Leisure Line Pioneers, 1) Keystoker
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: 1) Hitzer 82FA, 1) Newmac WG100

Post by no74falcon » Mon. Sep. 19, 2011 7:07 am

Thanks everyone. All the way out means the weight is as close to the plate as it can be, which should open the damper with the lowest possible draft, right? I understand the principals, just thought it would try to open easily and have to turn it back in to keep it from opening too much, at this setting. Do I not have a good draft? Maybe a manometer is what I need to find out if I need a better draft anyway, even with no baro at all.

 
User avatar
Rob R.
Site Moderator
Posts: 17965
Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
Location: Chazy, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr

Post by Rob R. » Mon. Sep. 19, 2011 8:07 am

You need to get a draft gauge to set the baro correctly. It is also important to let the stove run for a while before you try and adjust things.

 
User avatar
Howudoin2427
Member
Posts: 68
Joined: Sun. Jan. 23, 2011 8:55 am
Location: western, MA
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93

Post by Howudoin2427 » Mon. Oct. 03, 2011 1:26 pm

Just installed my new barometric damper. Looking forward to trying it out.

Attachments

IMAG0904.jpg
.JPG | 63.5KB | IMAG0904.jpg

 
User avatar
SteveZee
Member
Posts: 2512
Joined: Wed. May. 11, 2011 10:45 am
Location: Downeast , Maine
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Glenwood Modern Oak 116 & Glenwood 208 C Range

Post by SteveZee » Tue. Oct. 04, 2011 12:23 pm

no74falcon wrote:Thanks everyone. All the way out means the weight is as close to the plate as it can be, which should open the damper with the lowest possible draft, right? I understand the principals, just thought it would try to open easily and have to turn it back in to keep it from opening too much, at this setting. Do I not have a good draft? Maybe a manometer is what I need to find out if I need a better draft anyway, even with no baro at all.
Just because it doesn't open doesn't mean somethings wrong with it. Once your stove is been running a while and is up to temp (read: a good draft established) it may not open depending on the strength of your draft. You may have to wait for a windy day to see it open.

 
User avatar
coaledsweat
Site Moderator
Posts: 13761
Joined: Fri. Oct. 27, 2006 2:05 pm
Location: Guilford, Connecticut
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260M
Coal Size/Type: Pea

Post by coaledsweat » Tue. Oct. 04, 2011 7:00 pm

no74falcon wrote:Maybe a manometer is what I need to find out if I need a better draft anyway, even with no baro at all.
Not maybe, it is exactly what you need. With out it, you have no idea what is going on in that stovepipe.


Post Reply

Return to “Coal Bins, Chimneys, CO Detectors & Thermostats”