Install a Barometric Damper on a Stoker Stove/Furnace?

 
Bobbart
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Post by Bobbart » Wed. Jan. 11, 2012 4:29 pm

Ok first I don't have my draft gauge yet, should be here tomorrow. But I put the barometric damper in vertically and set the the weight on the 2 mark which is all the way to the left. The damper is open about 3/4 of the way. It is 3 degrees here right now. Last night it was below zero and super windy. The baro was completely open. I shook down the stove and went to bed at 10pm the stove was 500 degrees on the side. When I checked it at 6:00am the stove was 380 degrees and the temp in my living room was down 5 degrees from last night. I have alot of windy days here, if the baro can't keep a steady draft on my windy hill what do I do?


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Wed. Jan. 11, 2012 4:52 pm

I believe it might be what I think was already suggested to you. Lose the Baro & put in an MPD and close it all the way. ;)
Last edited by freetown fred on Wed. Jan. 11, 2012 4:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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WNY
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Post by WNY » Wed. Jan. 11, 2012 4:52 pm

.02 seems low for a hand fired, Most stoves runs should be at .04 or .06, It doesn't HAVE to be open to maintain draft. It all depends on your chimney, outside temps and how hot you are running your stove. Each situation is different.

 
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KingCoal918
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Post by KingCoal918 » Mon. Dec. 22, 2014 9:58 am

just got my baro damper and Dwyer Mark II manometer installed.

Another Mass Crane 88

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sat. Jan. 10, 2015 12:58 am

Wasn't sure where to post this, so hopefully this will do. Has anyone ever had the problem with their baro door jamming open? We had some pretty rough winds recently, and I noticed my draft going away. (To the low side.) When I checked the baro door, it was stuck open, more than once over a few day period. I know these pivot points/ bearing surfaces aren't the most precise on these things, so it doesn't surprise me it's happening. To eliminate this situation in the future, I made up this very elaborate device, to combat the problem. It took a lot of time and fore thought, but think it was worth the effort. It's a high tech limiter device, that is also adjustable for varying conditions. I was thinking of putting a patent on it, and was wondering if anyone wanted an "in", as a partner, (to help with expenses), I'm open for assistance. And if there are any clever engineers that might improve on this desisn, please feel free to advise Thanx. (Enclosed is picture of the adjustable baro limiter)
IR readings 003.JPG
.JPG | 106.1KB | IR readings 003.JPG
P.S. It has worked flawlessly over the past few days, and my draft remains a rock solid -.04 :)

 
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WNY
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Post by WNY » Sat. Jan. 10, 2015 6:24 am

Yes, sometimes my baro will get stuck, it's usually the pins need a drop of oil or the limit tab is bent and sticks. a little tweaking of the tab and adjustment to the baro, to make sure it's perfectly level and moves freely.
thats a good idea to limit the movement.

 
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SWPaDon
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Post by SWPaDon » Sat. Jan. 10, 2015 7:11 am

Yes, I had the baro stick open once also. That was on an oil furnace years ago.


 
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freetown fred
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Post by freetown fred » Sat. Jan. 10, 2015 7:57 am

Ditto what Don said. My thoughts are if you think a baro will help your stoves performance, have at it--no need to add more STUFF to the stove just cause it's out there! :)

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Jan. 10, 2015 8:39 am

SWPaDon wrote:Yes, I had the baro stick open once also. That was on an oil furnace years ago.
Me too. I ran a self tapping screw through the housing to limit the travel.

 
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SWPaDon
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Post by SWPaDon » Sat. Jan. 10, 2015 8:50 am

Rob R. wrote:
SWPaDon wrote:Yes, I had the baro stick open once also. That was on an oil furnace years ago.
Me too. I ran a self tapping screw through the housing to limit the travel.
Well, I guess that means your not in on 'joeq's invention then. :shock: I was just on the phone with my investment firm procuring funds. :D

 
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Post by titleist1 » Sat. Jan. 10, 2015 9:10 am

I am one of the self tapping screw crowd too. :shifty:

I got in after Rob, I hope he got that royalty check I sent in the mail for using the idea, that's what the chain letter I received said to do.

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sat. Jan. 10, 2015 11:16 am

WNY wrote:Yes, sometimes my baro will get stuck, it's usually the pins need a drop of oil or the limit tab is bent and sticks. a little tweaking of the tab and adjustment to the baro, to make sure it's perfectly level and moves freely.
thats a good idea to limit the movement.
So you're saying there "is" a limiting tab, that I just have to tweak, to prevent this? I'll look a little closer.
freetown fred wrote:Ditto what Don said. My thoughts are if you think a baro will help your stoves performance, have at it--no need to add more STUFF to the stove just cause it's out there! :)
I don't "think" the baro helps Fred, I "proved" the baro helps. My draft always remains rock steady at -.04, which gives this little firebreather better performance by allowing me to control it with more consistency.

 
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KingCoal918
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Post by KingCoal918 » Sat. Jan. 10, 2015 11:41 am

agreed. I burned ~40lbs/day last season with just a MPD and blind guesswork. installed the baro and a manometer to tune it/ monitor it and am burning ~20lbs now. best investment.

 
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warminmn
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Post by warminmn » Sat. Jan. 10, 2015 12:34 pm

I can move the weight all the way to the left and it still runs .04-.05. Thats on 2 different stoves, 2 different baros, 2 different manometers. Both are fields RC's. All Im saying is I don't trust the numbers on the baro's. Use a manometer to set them.

Ive never had mine stick. I do lube them with powdered graphite. Not sure if it helps it much, but they don't squeak at all.

 
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joeq
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Post by joeq » Sat. Jan. 10, 2015 12:52 pm

Warmin, are you saying, even with the baro door wide open, your chimney is still drafting -.04?! That must be one hell of a draw.


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