Baro damper?

spc · By: **spc** On: Mon Nov 12, 2007 1:50 pm

I installed a LL Pioneer over the weekend. I'm getting an excellent burn, c02 not going off but the baro does not move even at the .2 setting. It is a brick chimney, clay flue & clears the top of roof by 2'. The stove pipe is 19" high from the top of stove to center of thimble & 14" from center of top vent of stove to chimney. The baro is horizontally mounted with a "T" right after the elbow. Will moving it vertically to the top vent exit help or is it ok the way it is? Thanks.

Dallas · By: **Dallas** On: Mon Nov 12, 2007 2:43 pm

It shouldn't matter .. horizontal or vertical, however placement (vert or horz) determines how the adjustment weights are set up. Make sure they are in the right configuration.

spc · By: **spc** On: Tue Nov 13, 2007 2:03 am

I checked to make sure the weight is on the right side.

WNY · By: **WNY** On: Tue Nov 13, 2007 8:39 am

Make sure it is is level, you may not have enough draft to actually open it up. If it is warm outside mine doesn't open at all, but once below about 25 degrees it just starts to open and it could open farther the colder it gets, you want to maintain .02-.04 at the stove if possible. Just blow on it a bit to make sure it's not sticking or anything. I always give it a little tap to make sure there is nothing (ash) causing it not to move.

Here a link to the Field Controls Installation Manual

http://www.fieldcontrols.com/pdfs/02702600.PDF

spc · By: **spc** On: Fri Nov 16, 2007 8:48 am

I am using a "T" for the baro. Could someone measure from the side of the T to the baro door itself. Field Controls says a min. of 2-11/16". http://www.fieldcontrols.com/pdfs/01536760.pdf
It doesn't show if that measurement is to the door itself or the flange that sticks out around the baro. Mine measures 3-1/2" to the baro door hinge pins. My problem may be the baro is a little too far from flue pipe, if this makes any sense. Thanks.

Dallas · By: **Dallas** On: Fri Nov 16, 2007 9:04 am

The distance from the flue shouldn't matter. It's just offering a supply of air for the chimney, if the draft gets too high, due to fire burn or outside conditions. I believe the "minimum dimension" is provided as such, to keep the flapper door out of the flue when it opens.

If you can adjust the damper to have very little resistance to movement (so that it's very light), when the stove gets cranked up pretty good or it's windy outside, the damper should open or flutter. It doesn't have to be open all the time, .. nor should it be.

e.alleg · By: **e.alleg** On: Fri Nov 16, 2007 11:14 am

I leave mine pretty tight, I'm afraid that if it's open too much then the chimney will cool off and reduce the draft causing co in the house and I worry about it. The coal savings between running at .02 draft and .1 are minimal I think compared to the risk of gas spillage.

Matthaus · By: **Matthaus** On: Fri Nov 16, 2007 8:04 pm

A manometer or draft gauge is really required to tell what is going on. I fooled myself several times into thinking that I had enough draft with the weight selection on the baro... turned out that i was way off.

Either find a friend who has a draft gauge and get him over to look at the blue flames :lol:

, or look to buy one of the cheap manometers found frequently on ebay ( a Dwyer MK II model 25 can be found for under $25 with shipping on occasion). This is cheap insurance that will improve the efficiency of how you run the stove.

gaw · By: **gaw** On: Sat Nov 17, 2007 10:23 am

I always use a level to make sure the pivot points are on a level plane and then make sure the "face" of the damper is plumb. When installed this way the marked scale on the damper is pretty close but you MUST use some type of draft gauge to confirm proper over fire draft. In some cases you will observe a higher draft in the stack than over the fire. (maybe .04 measured in the stack below the damper and a .02 over fire measured at front door)

In most cases a barometric damper set to .02 will be open from a little to a lot during cold weather when the stove is burning.

Jerry & Karen · By: **Jerry & Karen** On: Sat Nov 17, 2007 9:55 pm

Hi spc,
In some cases the house is to tight. A good way to check if this is your problem is to watch the baro and have someone open the door to the outside. If your baro bounces and remains open, maybe you should crack a window or install a fresh air vent. First thing to do is to take all the asdvise and check it with a draft gauge.
Jerry LLS

spc · By: **spc** On: Sat Nov 17, 2007 10:45 pm

Hi Jerry, Stove is amazing. I did the window test but the baro did nothing. Last night it was bouncing a little but I think it was more do to wind. I ordered a draft gauge yesterday. The stove is in my living room & really don't want a gauge with a probe showing. From what I have read the probe goes before the baro & testing is done with a good fire but I'm unsure if the combustion blower should be running when testing? What is puzzling is that I have a good burn, it never goes out, & my digital CO2 detector reads 0. Thanks.

spc · By: **spc** On: Fri Nov 23, 2007 6:55 pm

Well I installed the manometer & my draft reading is .04 with a good fire, temp outside is 32. I have a new Field Controls RC- STD baro set on .02 & it does not move. For testing purposes I screwed a small bolt to the weight & it started moving. It seem like the baro is off at least .02. I don't know if I should add additional weight? The baro is straight, level & swings freely. The manometer is level, set at zero. I double checked everything. I would hate to buy another baro. Any suggestions? Thanks.

WNY · By: **WNY** On: Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:04 pm

I did the same thing, added a little screw to the weight bar in the hole where it bends to fine tune it. It has some build-up of crud, so the calibration of mine is a bit off. Mine is keeping right around .04-.05 with it just starting to open, when it gets colder, it opens a bit more, probably a good 1/4-1/3 open to maintain the good draft on the stove.

Yes, the Draft Test Point should be between the Stove and the Baro, probably around 18" from the stove.

Here a pic of the damper for those needing one.

Dallas · By: **Dallas** On: Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:18 pm

I never really analyzed the operation of the baro dampers, but I was just wondering what different characteristics it has from the vertical to the horizontal positions?

coaledsweat · By: **coaledsweat** On: Tue Nov 27, 2007 2:33 pm

It isn't in the damper, as that orientation remains the same with either way its mounted I would think. It may have to do with the gas speed horizontal and vertical?

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