EFM Motor Noise

 
kenny007
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Post by kenny007 » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 9:36 am

Hello,
here is a link to a noise my motor is making,
tell me what you think
Thanks Ken




 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 9:50 am

The ratchet assembly sounds like it is running slower than normal. Have you ever oiled the motor?

 
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Post by kenny007 » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 9:54 am

Hello,
yes I tried that, the feed rate is set to 3 teeth, what do you mean slow??
Thanks Ken

 
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CoalHeat
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Post by CoalHeat » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 10:12 am

Did you check the oil level in the gear reducer?
My stoker runs faster, at 4 teeth I can't count the clicks, it may just be the video is running slow,

 
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Post by kenny007 » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 10:37 am

Hello,
i don't think the video is slow, what would make it run slow? is it running backwards??
Thanks Ken

 
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Post by kenny007 » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 10:39 am


 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 10:48 am

With the power off and the drive pawl flipped up, try spinning the fan coupler by hand...does it spin freely?
Wood'nCoal wrote:Did you check the oil level in the gear reducer?
Well?

It almost sounds like it makes that noise when the crank is in a certain position. Time to pull the motor off and see what spins easy and what doesn't.


 
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Post by kenny007 » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 10:57 am

The oil level seems low, mabe I will change it, what yould you guys suggest??
Thanks Ken

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 11:25 am

Ken, you still need to narrow down what component has the problem. I could see no oil causing issues, but just being a little low seems like an unlikely cause.
Rob R. wrote:With the power off and the drive pawl flipped up, try spinning the fan coupler by hand...does it spin freely?
Have you gone through that exercise yet?

As for the oil, I was just discussing this with another EFM user this morning. A traditional gear lube is what I suggest, 75w90, 80w90, etc. The exact viscosity isn't critical since this is a low load and fairly steady temperature application, but you should pick a gearlube that meets/exceeds an API rating of GL4/GL5. If you can spare the extra $10 or so, a synthetic oil is a good idea.

 
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CoalHeat
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Post by CoalHeat » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 11:28 am

90 weight oil in the gear reducer.
Pull the motor and run it off the stoker and see what it sounds like. It should spin freely. It sounds like the noise is from the motor.
Here's my stoker running:
0001.wmv
.WMV | 5.2MB | 0001.wmv
Runs a little faster.

 
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Post by kenny007 » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 12:55 pm

Hello,
I found the rubber piece between the motor and gearbox to have some play, lubed it now its gone
Shound there be some free play in the rubber ???
i still don't know why im spinning slow, any ideas??
Thanks Ken

 
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Post by kenny007 » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 1:22 pm

Anybody know which way the bottom arm should turn clockwise or counterclockwise?????
Thanks

 
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Post by Rob R. » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 1:29 pm

Counterclockwise. Mine takes 20 seconds to make 10 revolutions...I just timed it.

 
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CoalHeat
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Post by CoalHeat » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 1:34 pm

You have a crank ass'y on the output shaft of the gear reducer that has an elongated slot where the connecting rod attaches. If you compare the position of the connecting rod on your stoker to the position of the connecting rod in my video you will see that on my stoker the rod is positioned farther out from the center. If you move the rod on your stoker farther out the stoker will speed up. Since this will increase the connecting rod travel it will also increase the number of teeth engaged, so you'll have to readjust the drive pawl.

This looks like a rebuilt unit. Where did it come from?

 
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Post by kenny007 » Thu. Dec. 29, 2011 9:33 pm

Hello,
Took the motor off and found that the fan moved back on the shaft, closer to the motor
brought out the fan on the shaft about 1/2 inch all seems ok now rubber connector now seems tight
thanks everyone for the info...
ps What are you boiler temps when sitting after a long 20-30 burn???
Thanks Ken


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