EFM Motor Noise
- CoalHeat
- Member
- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
Did you check the oil level in the gear reducer?
My stoker runs faster, at 4 teeth I can't count the clicks, it may just be the video is running slow,
My stoker runs faster, at 4 teeth I can't count the clicks, it may just be the video is running slow,
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 17980
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
With the power off and the drive pawl flipped up, try spinning the fan coupler by hand...does it spin freely?
It almost sounds like it makes that noise when the crank is in a certain position. Time to pull the motor off and see what spins easy and what doesn't.
Well?Wood'nCoal wrote:Did you check the oil level in the gear reducer?
It almost sounds like it makes that noise when the crank is in a certain position. Time to pull the motor off and see what spins easy and what doesn't.
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 17980
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
Ken, you still need to narrow down what component has the problem. I could see no oil causing issues, but just being a little low seems like an unlikely cause.
As for the oil, I was just discussing this with another EFM user this morning. A traditional gear lube is what I suggest, 75w90, 80w90, etc. The exact viscosity isn't critical since this is a low load and fairly steady temperature application, but you should pick a gearlube that meets/exceeds an API rating of GL4/GL5. If you can spare the extra $10 or so, a synthetic oil is a good idea.
Have you gone through that exercise yet?Rob R. wrote:With the power off and the drive pawl flipped up, try spinning the fan coupler by hand...does it spin freely?
As for the oil, I was just discussing this with another EFM user this morning. A traditional gear lube is what I suggest, 75w90, 80w90, etc. The exact viscosity isn't critical since this is a low load and fairly steady temperature application, but you should pick a gearlube that meets/exceeds an API rating of GL4/GL5. If you can spare the extra $10 or so, a synthetic oil is a good idea.
- CoalHeat
- Member
- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
90 weight oil in the gear reducer.
Pull the motor and run it off the stoker and see what it sounds like. It should spin freely. It sounds like the noise is from the motor.
Here's my stoker running: Runs a little faster.
Pull the motor and run it off the stoker and see what it sounds like. It should spin freely. It sounds like the noise is from the motor.
Here's my stoker running: Runs a little faster.
Hello,
I found the rubber piece between the motor and gearbox to have some play, lubed it now its gone
Shound there be some free play in the rubber ???
i still don't know why im spinning slow, any ideas??
Thanks Ken
I found the rubber piece between the motor and gearbox to have some play, lubed it now its gone
Shound there be some free play in the rubber ???
i still don't know why im spinning slow, any ideas??
Thanks Ken
- CoalHeat
- Member
- Posts: 8862
- Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
- Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
- Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
- Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
- Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert
You have a crank ass'y on the output shaft of the gear reducer that has an elongated slot where the connecting rod attaches. If you compare the position of the connecting rod on your stoker to the position of the connecting rod in my video you will see that on my stoker the rod is positioned farther out from the center. If you move the rod on your stoker farther out the stoker will speed up. Since this will increase the connecting rod travel it will also increase the number of teeth engaged, so you'll have to readjust the drive pawl.
This looks like a rebuilt unit. Where did it come from?
This looks like a rebuilt unit. Where did it come from?
Hello,
Took the motor off and found that the fan moved back on the shaft, closer to the motor
brought out the fan on the shaft about 1/2 inch all seems ok now rubber connector now seems tight
thanks everyone for the info...
ps What are you boiler temps when sitting after a long 20-30 burn???
Thanks Ken
Took the motor off and found that the fan moved back on the shaft, closer to the motor
brought out the fan on the shaft about 1/2 inch all seems ok now rubber connector now seems tight
thanks everyone for the info...
ps What are you boiler temps when sitting after a long 20-30 burn???
Thanks Ken