How Are My Radiators Plumbed???

 
jaimz23
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Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman Trident SF-260

Post by jaimz23 » Thu. Jan. 12, 2012 7:09 pm

Sorry I have not responded in a while. Couple long days at work. I appreciate all the responses about the temperature of my boiler temperature going down so much when the house circulator kicks on, and I may plumb in a tempering line between the supply and return (not sure what size I need and if I need the valve).

But on another note, I feel I have veered too far from my original question. I know some people have responded to my original post with various answers, but I just need to know if my drawing of how to plumb the new zone will work.

I have included a updated drawing with the types of radiators and the sizes and I have labeled them S, M, & L for easier viewing with their sizes next to them and I have listed them as the Cast Iron and the 2 Copper Fin tube Baseboards. I have included a picture of the Cast iron type of radiators that I have for reference.

Thanks

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Sting
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Location: Lower Fox Valley = Wisconsin
Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG

Post by Sting » Fri. Jan. 13, 2012 8:44 pm

I skirted your question once

let me be stupid again

I submit--- once you open your single zone system to create a two load loops - its silly not to add a third loop of zone -- IF IT MAKES a difference in system performance

In your case, I see you splitting the front and the back of the house into two zones

BRAVO!! that's the path to comfort

BUT... Your adding load to part of the division - that's inconsistent to the rest of the radiation

So what I was "suggesting' earlier is -- make that inconstant addition, a third loop and you will have a system that you can balance and run economically.

Kind Regards
Sting


 
jaimz23
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Posts: 130
Joined: Sun. Jan. 24, 2010 11:35 am
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman Trident SF-260

Post by jaimz23 » Sat. Jan. 14, 2012 1:23 pm

Sting,

I appreciate you taking the time to reply to my question, however I feel sometimes I am reading code. lol. I am not sure where you think I should add/make a third zone. Do you mean keep my drawing the way it is and then split up another part of the existing second drawing that I have posted to make a third zone? How should I do this and why would this balance the system? When you say.....
Sting wrote:So what I was "suggesting' earlier is -- make that inconstant addition, a third loop and you will have a system that you can balance and run economically.
What inconstant addition are you referring to?

Thanks as always.

 
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Sting
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Posts: 2983
Joined: Mon. Feb. 25, 2008 4:24 pm
Location: Lower Fox Valley = Wisconsin
Other Heating: OBSO Lennox Pulse "Air Scorcher" burning NG

Post by Sting » Sat. Jan. 14, 2012 3:26 pm

it "appears" the old dead guy that originally set the heating system - did it with cast iron radiators and in one simple zone for the whole house

someone "May have" added the fin tube

fin tube and cast do not radiate at the same rates and should be on separate pump loops - the cast should be on a temperature reduced loop!

now you are adding a third radiation element - or I cannot read

All three radiation systems can be made to play well- int the same dwelling, but would be best served pumped separately at different temperatures and flow rates

If further separation is necessary in the cast part of the system, because you still need to zone the front and back of the house OK maybe you need a 4th zone

or maybe I am all "wet"

It depends - its you house -- I am on the other side of the public internet

who cares what I think

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