1948 Axeman 130

I'll look when I get home on Friday Dave, not sure but I might have an extra plate with the GJ stuff.

Is this a small one? Grainger has a prety good assortment of small motor mounts.

Can you take a picture of your center tube and post it either from the front (site cover end) or rear (fan end) if its apart.

Put a 1/3 hp motor on the anthratube. Mine came with a 1/4 hp motor which died after two years. I put in a spare which lasted one year. Two and half years ago, I bought a Magnatek 1/3 hp motor and it has given me no problems. I think the heat and the effort needed to start the blower and stoker is a little two much for the smaller motors. It also could be that the newer designs aren't as tough as the older motors were.

gregolma wrote:Put a 1/3 hp motor on the anthratube. Mine came with a 1/4 hp motor which died after two years. I put in a spare which lasted one year. Two and half years ago, I bought a Magnatek 1/3 hp motor and it has given me no problems. I think the heat and the effort needed to start the blower and stoker is a little two much for the smaller motors. It also could be that the newer designs aren't as tough as the older motors were.

Awhile back Greg was having motor issues, which he resolved. Just curious, what type of motor does it use? Some members were saying capacitor start, I was saying split phase, for more start-up torque, since the motor is under considerable load at start-up.

Capacitor start.

Wood'nCoal wrote:

gregolma wrote:Put a 1/3 hp motor on the anthratube. Mine came with a 1/4 hp motor which died after two years. I put in a spare which lasted one year. Two and half years ago, I bought a Magnatek 1/3 hp motor and it has given me no problems. I think the heat and the effort needed to start the blower and stoker is a little two much for the smaller motors. It also could be that the newer designs aren't as tough as the older motors were.

Awhile back Greg was having motor issues, which he resolved. Just curious, what type of motor does it use? Some members were saying capacitor start, I was saying split phase, for more start-up torque, since the motor is under considerable load at start-up.

You have got it wrong. Capacitor start motors have more starting torque than split phase. On single phase power there are several ways to start a motor. Split phase is the least expensive way, it's done by dual windings in which a phase shift in the current occurs because one winding is a smaller gauge wire, hence larger resistance, which all results in enough of a starting torque to get the motor started. Split phase motors have LOW starting torque because you only get a very small phase change due to the different winding resistance. In capacitor start motors the capacitor provides a much larger current phase shift, hence, capacitor start motors have much LARGER starting torque. Both motors have switches to remove the starting winding once the motor gets up to near full RPM. If I were to need a replacement motor on my AHS boiler which comes with an open frame 1/2 HP capacitor start motor I would replace it with and totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC) motor. A sealed motor will have longer lifetime. I would also remove the motor bearings and re-grease them with high temperature grease, unless I could verify from the motor manufacture the specs on the grease.

I think the problem with the original motor is that is was split phase. The start winding went. I'll check on the Magnatek to see what type it is.

Yanche wrote:

Wood'nCoal wrote:

gregolma wrote:Put a 1/3 hp motor on the anthratube. Mine came with a 1/4 hp motor which died after two years. I put in a spare which lasted one year. Two and half years ago, I bought a Magnatek 1/3 hp motor and it has given me no problems. I think the heat and the effort needed to start the blower and stoker is a little two much for the smaller motors. It also could be that the newer designs aren't as tough as the older motors were.

Awhile back Greg was having motor issues, which he resolved. Just curious, what type of motor does it use? Some members were saying capacitor start, I was saying split phase, for more start-up torque, since the motor is under considerable load at start-up.

You have got it wrong. Capacitor start motors have more starting torque than split phase. On single phase power there are several ways to start a motor. Split phase is the least expensive way, it's done by dual windings in which a phase shift in the current occurs because one winding is a smaller gauge wire, hence larger resistance, which all results in enough of a starting torque to get the motor started. Split phase motors have LOW starting torque because you only get a very small phase change due to the different winding resistance. In capacitor start motors the capacitor provides a much larger current phase shift, hence, capacitor start motors have much LARGER starting torque. Both motors have switches to remove the starting winding once the motor gets up to near full RPM. If I were to need a replacement motor on my AHS boiler which comes with an open frame 1/2 HP capacitor start motor I would replace it with and totally enclosed fan cooled (TEFC) motor. A sealed motor will have longer lifetime. I would also remove the motor bearings and re-grease them with high temperature grease, unless I could verify from the motor manufacture the specs on the grease.

Thanks for clearing that up for me.

Flyer5 wrote:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emwHCuZ0thk . My first time posting on youtube . Not sure how this will work . Dave

Looks Great Dave Nice Job anybody buy it yet