Thermostat?

I saw another member on here had his draft inducer on a thermostat and PM'd him a while ago about what model T-Stat he had. I've gotten no response.

For the past few weeks my draft inducer has not been used, it's been cold enough where I'm producing enough of a natural draft to not need it; been pulling .03"-.05" with the MPD closed all the way at 400*, with it open it jumps to .06"-.08".

But, I've wanted to put it on a thermostat so that it comes on automatically at say stack temp of 150*. I've seen it mentioned here several times that it can be done but I'm don't know what thermostat I'd need.

A "snap disc" switch would work...something like this: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Snap-D ... trol-6UEA2

They are available with different temperature settings, some are adjustable.

Thanks Rob, I'm assuming that I'd have to drill a hole in the pipe to mount that into. Then when the temp of the exhaust reaches 150* it "closes" and turns the fan on and then "opens" at 170* turning the fan off. Is that correct?

I guess it could be mounted with the mounting plate where the nub only touches the outside of the pipe.

I'm On Fire wrote:I guess it could be mounted with the mounting plate where the nub only touches the outside of the pipe.

Yes sir, that's how I'd "rig" it. How many amps does your draft inducer pull?

It draws 1.0 amps.

Is it going to draw too much for the thermostat?

With a Standard Thermostat, you would need some sort of a relay to switch 24V / 110 volt . But the snap disc type switches would work the best. You could just mount on the outside of the pipe (or drill a hole), but would need a lower temperature range if mounted on the outside, you can get adjustable ones too.
Check Ebay, pexsupply, any HVAC type place.

IOF,
It was member "homecomfort" who had the thermostat hooked to the draft inducer.I believe it was just a magnitic snap switch
that he moved up and down the stove pipe untill it was the desired temp. he wanted. I will look because I was intrested too,but put it off a few times since I don't need it till spring also. Dennis

Dennis wrote:IOF,
It was member "homecomfort" who had the thermostat hooked to the draft inducer.I believe it was just a magnitic snap switch
that he moved up and down the stove pipe untill it was the desired temp. he wanted. I will look because I was intrested too,but put it off a few times since I don't need it till spring also. Dennis

That's who it was and he never replied. Yeah, I don't need it right now either but I'd like the part numbers and pick them up so they are ready when I need them.

WNY, I wouldn't need the relay with a snap disk though?

You know, a Baro does the same thing, but thermodynamicly.

If you have no MPD, and a baro in the flue, if the temperature in the chimney drops, and therefore the chimney draft, the baro closes, sending undiluted hot air up the chimney to warm it, producing more draft, which it then controls with diluting the draft with room air. It's a self regulating system.

Your stove creates lots of draft when there is heat, but a lot less draft when the MPD is closed, blocking the heat from keeping the chimney warm..

Unfortunately your chimney is one that needs some stove heat sacrificed to keep warm to keep the draft strong enough.

So with the draft inducer, you are electricly overcoming what a baro would do automaticly.

If you are only comfortable with the electrical stuff, OK, but I think you are just adding unneeded complexity and reliance on electricity.

Just my opinion.

Greg L

LsFarm wrote:You know, a Baro does the same thing, but thermodynamicly.

If you have no MPD, and a baro in the flue, if the temperature in the chimney drops, and therefore the chimney draft, the baro closes, sending undiluted hot air up the chimney to warm it, producing more draft, which it then controls with diluting the draft with room air. It's a self regulating system.

Your stove creates lots of draft when there is heat, but a lot less draft when the MPD is closed, blocking the heat from keeping the chimney warm..

Unfortunately your chimney is one that needs some stove heat sacrificed to keep warm to keep the draft strong enough.

So with the draft inducer, you are electricly overcoming what a baro would do automaticly.

If you are only comfortable with the electrical stuff, OK, but I think you are just adding unneeded complexity and reliance on electricity.

Just my opinion.

Greg L

I had a baro. I lost my draft a few times with it. I don't have a problem with the mpd when it's cold. I only need the draft inducer when it's 40*+ and not below.

A baro does not work in all applications unfortunately.

I'm On Fire wrote:It draws 1.0 amps.

Is it going to draw too much for the thermostat?

The one linked above can handle that easily.

Awesome. Thanks.

get your self a line voltage t stat low range cooling only 40 t0 80 or so and series the feed to the d i and when the temp goes up the tstat makes and your di starts i made one for a member down in va. and sent ti to him

jim d wrote:get your self a line voltage t stat low range cooling only 40 t0 80 or so and series the feed to the d i and when the temp goes up the tstat makes and your di starts i made one for a member down in va. and sent ti to him

You mean like one of these: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/COLUMB ... Pid=search ?

yes but the range 80 t0 130 is much ti high take a look at the on above it in the same catalog 4kfv5 50 to90 should do thr trick