refurbishing a efm 350

Moved this thread to the EFM heading.

Pictures please!! We love pictures here, you know.

Just my opinion, if you are in an area without a combustion problem, the blue tip wrench is the best to take rusted bolts apart. As long as you don't run the oxygen tank empty as mine is currently

double post

Well, what about some pictures?

ive got some pictures of the nightmare that i have gotten my self in to. i have come to realize that im not doing this for money. im doing this for the learning experience. what was i thinking. im going to end up in the loony bin after this.

it looked a lot better before i started taking it apart. amazing how much rust hides. till ya hit with a hammer. well im going to need a new complete base there isn't anything to weld to. "haven't figured how to weld rust yet." i broke the pot getting it apart. i herd it crack from the hot wrench. this why i will never put anything together with out anti seize. your nuts if you don't use it. i will grind it out and weld it up unless some one here says other wise. ive welded cast before in high heat environments and didn't have problems. how much does a base run for the 350. need to figure cost of welding one up, or just buy a new one.

here is the link to the pictures.
http://s1071.photobucket.com/albums/u501/windagoman/

Before you get so involved with fixing it, why not pressure test it ?

AA130FIREMAN wrote:Before you get so involved with fixing it, why not pressure test it ?

ive got a friend picking up the fittings and tester from work that's tonight's endeavor. nobody got back to me on what to test it at? ill go for 40 to 50 psi if it holds 30 with out blowing the DHW gasket ill be happy.

oh just looked at the auger and im asking my self wheres the bushing? if i get out of this rebuild for less than a 1000 in parts. i will be lucky. not counting the base i think its going to be a weld up of the original. just beefier.

edit adding information:
well going back to it. dinners done and ive got work to do. ill catch up before i get to bed for the night.

30 psi is minimum since that is the relief valve rating.

Fill it with water and pressure it up to 45-65 psi aand let it sit for 24 hours. DON'T use just air, if it blows with just air in it it's not gonna be a good day.

I be following this post, and I been in the same boat with mine boiler. I broken off the studs for the water coil, and welded a frame in case I ever put in a new coil,
It a good learning experice for me and I believe for many other guys on this site, plus I got the help from them.
Hang in there, you will have it done sometime, but do everything right the first time and keep asking for help.
Good luck!
Gerard

well called it quits for for the weekend. well we put the water to it and got it up to 35 and the DHW was leaking. surprise! surprise? so we drained it and removed the coil. not one stud broke off. the hot wrench works every time. but i don't like the look of the studs so that will get the box out repair. when we got it up to pressure i didn't see any leaks. other than the DHW.

ok what size coil is this? can i sweat the plate off the coil to replace the plate?

and ill be doing the retro fit for the DHW i don't want any problems.

Is it time to offer you three cups of coffee and $75 ?????

Poconoeagle wrote:Is it time to offer you three cups of coffee and $75 ?????

I bid 4 Espressos and $100 !!

Poconoeagle wrote:Is it time to offer you three cups of coffee and $75 ?????

no way.

Looks like your doing just fine.... it just one piece at a time... dissassemble,clean,inspect,photo,reaasemble,paintblue
repeat......oh yeah photo again....

congrats on the daddy deal