refurbishing a efm 350

windago · By: **windago** On: Sat Jan 21, 2012 10:28 pm

Poconoeagle wrote: paintblue

why does it have to be blue. i was thinking bright pink, or flaming orange.

Rob R. · By: **Rob R.** On: Sat Jan 21, 2012 10:29 pm

I painted mine black.

Poconoeagle · By: **Poconoeagle** On: Sat Jan 21, 2012 10:34 pm

Pink would be cool.....Purple or lime green

windago · By: **windago** On: Sun Jan 22, 2012 12:51 pm

just going the parts of what i need to get. i will check if the s15 pot is still available. so i don't have to weld it. the only big ticket item is going to be the auger. the rest of it is small stuff. does anybody know "ball park" of how much the auger is going to cost. or does some one have a used one that they want to sell?

haven't found any numbers on the gear box. i think seals are going to be a problem. ive done this before on old stuff where you made it work with newer seals that weren't the same as the old ones.

does any body have an idea what size this coil is???

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after looking at other posts about the base. i am going to make one and add a foot to it for a larger ash pan. also the 3 1/2 foot base will be easier to clean out with the tubes in the boiler section. im also going to make a few revisions to the ash area so it doesn't shelf the ash near the burner pot like the old one. maybe an angled area to the ash pan i like the idea of adding runners for the bottom so you don't have ash coming out with the pan. im thinking 316 stainless for the base. added cost but well worth it. i will check the price before i go this route. i think 11 gauge will hold this 1000 lbs in place.

this weeks project.
1. clean and inspect all the parts.
2. find prices on the parts needed.
3. order steel for the base.
4. determine with kind of controls i want to get. computer controller or the analog old style.
5. get parts to sand blaster.
6. decide on what paint scheme i want. im thinking of giving my friend a shot at airbrushing the front with something. if time allots.

Rob R. · By: **Rob R.** On: Sun Jan 22, 2012 1:39 pm

What's wrong with the S15 pot? Why do you think the gearbox needs seals?

Used augers are available. The coil could be a 3.5 or 5 gpm unit.

No need for stainless on the base if you keep it out of the dirt/water.

coaledsweat · By: **coaledsweat** On: Sun Jan 22, 2012 2:35 pm

windago wrote:does any body have an idea what size this coil is???

Huge would be the size!

CatholicBoy1957 · By: **CatholicBoy1957** On: Sun Jan 22, 2012 3:26 pm

Rob R. wrote:No need for stainless

No need for airbrushing either, but we seem to have someone with fine tastes, and the resources to satisfy them.

windago · By: **windago** On: Sun Jan 22, 2012 3:48 pm

CatholicBoy1957 wrote:
Rob R. wrote:No need for stainless

No need for airbrushing either, but we seem to have someone with fine tastes, and the resources to satisfy them.

fine taste yes. the resources to obtain. not so much. "champagne taste, beer wallet." :beer:

windago · By: **windago** On: Sun Jan 22, 2012 3:59 pm

Rob R. wrote:What's wrong with the S15 pot? Why do you think the gearbox needs seals?

the red line in the picture is the crack that happened when i heated to get bolt out.

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it is leaking not to bad but i don't know how much it's going to leak so a reseal is in order.

i got the motor running. it was half filled with water. so a good cleaning. checked all the wiring and cleaned with motor electric cleaner, then set it next to the mark III for an hour, reassembled, lubed and it started right up. i will however buy a replacement motor to have on hand once the refurb is done.

coal berner · By: **coal berner** On: Sun Jan 22, 2012 4:04 pm

windago wrote:what is the cost for a new auger?

couldn't sleep much. im like a kid on Christmas morning. i can't stop smiling. well just looking it over with my morning coffee. it looks like the burner "fire pot" is in great shape. i know that everything will come apart and inspected cleaned and anti seized when going back together. the old aqua stat is going to need up dating its the old mercury type. i think its the original one from the 60's. i know im getting ahead of my self a little but what type of controllers am i going to need?

tried to spin the motor it's locked up. but being from the 60's it can be refreshed. thank goodness. i keep old tools, my fathers stuff, from when they use to rebuild starters and alternators. he owned his own marina for 30 years got out in 1987. now he builds houses for something to do. in his words. if it takes me all year to build a house, it gets me off the couch and out of your mothers hair. not bad for 78, that can out work me.

BTW the unit was set up for steam. but i know that doesn't matter. well i hope it doesn't?

and yes i did get the guys info and i gave him mine. i told him if he comes across anything that looks like a boiler. to give me a call and ill take a look. i would by them coffee any time i see these guys.

and yes coal berner. it is safer to test pressure vessels with water. ive got the setup for doing just that, at work. what is the testing pressure of this boiler? i mean what is it tested to "pressure" when new? would be nice to get the specs. i know that some pressure vessels are crazy high when testing repairs.

and thank you for all the help, and future help that everyone is giving me on the endeavor. i don't what to rush this. i want to do it right the first time. doing it twice is not an option. never have and never will. it seems to aggravate people these days when you don't cut corners to get it done.

auger new 160 to 200 pot mid and bin augers
used ones 60 to 100
water coil takes new rubber casket
DHW coil size in old 350 were 3.5 gpm or 5 gpm
New coils are 5gpm or 7gpm both will fit yours. no new 3.5 made anymore
270 to 380

coal berner · By: **coal berner** On: Sun Jan 22, 2012 4:24 pm

windago wrote:just going the parts of what i need to get. i will check if the s15 pot is still available. so i don't have to weld it. the only big ticket item is going to be the auger. the rest of it is small stuff. does anybody know "ball park" of how much the auger is going to cost. or does some one have a used one that they want to sell?

haven't found any numbers on the gear box. i think seals are going to be a problem. ive done this before on old stuff where you made it work with newer seals that weren't the same as the old ones.

does any body have an idea what size this coil is???
2012-01-21_20-21-56_284.jpg

after looking at other posts about the base. i am going to make one and add a foot to it for a larger ash pan. also the 3 1/2 foot base will be easier to clean out with the tubes in the boiler section. im also going to make a few revisions to the ash area so it doesn't shelf the ash near the burner pot like the old one. maybe an angled area to the ash pan i like the idea of adding runners for the bottom so you don't have ash coming out with the pan. im thinking 316 stainless for the base. added cost but well worth it. i will check the price before i go this route. i think 11 gauge will hold this 1000 lbs in place.

this weeks project.
1. clean and inspect all the parts.
2. find prices on the parts needed.
3. order steel for the base.
4. determine with kind of controls i want to get. computer controller or the analog old style.
5. get parts to sand blaster.
6. decide on what paint scheme i want. im thinking of giving my friend a shot at airbrushing the front with something. if time allots.

coil is a 5 gpm
your stoker will be a S-15 does not matter you can use a S-20 with blower / base plate spacer no need if yours is not broken

gear box must be drained taken apart look at brass worm gear and big sprocket gear parts are available or a used or new gearbox can be bought as well

don't know what seal your talking about DHW coil has a rubber gasket that will need to replaced
Pot Auger tube out of base & 3 base panels both doors use rope and flat stove gaskets with silicon boiler to base uses boiler putty or high temp silicon to seal up putty around top base lip then boiler sits down 1.5 " onto lip then seal outside all the way around with boiler putty or high temp silicon .

Pot will have 3 stove gaskets one at bottom of grates one at top under grates and one under pot ash ring.

coal berner · By: **coal berner** On: Sun Jan 22, 2012 4:32 pm

windago wrote:
Rob R. wrote:What's wrong with the S15 pot? Why do you think the gearbox needs seals?

the red line in the picture is the crack that happened when i heated to get bolt out.
broken pot.jpg

it is leaking not to bad but i don't know how much it's going to leak so a reseal is in order.

i got the motor running. it was half filled with water. so a good cleaning. checked all the wiring and cleaned with motor electric cleaner, then set it next to the mark III for an hour, reassembled, lubed and it started right up. i will however buy a replacement motor to have on hand once the refurb is done.

no need to heat up pot bolts cut them off with metal cutting blade on 4 or 4.5 " grinder
new bolts and nuts are much cheaper then buying a new pot bell :roll:

Its cast iron so it will keep cracking when you put it back together and make heat in it so do you know any good welders that
knows how to weld cast iron or you can buy a use replacement pot bell

windago · By: **windago** On: Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:23 pm

well looked at the cost of stainless for the base. quote was 837.35 for the 11 gauge panels needed. well that's too much so i ordered the 11 gauge carbon steel for 183.72. both quotes were with the angle iron need for the base too with a few improvements to the design layout of the base. they said it will be ready for pickup the beginning of next week. well i guess its time to get the bottle refiled on the welder. boiler goes out for sand blasting next weekend. they said it could take a week or two. they don't fire up the blaster until they have enough stuff to keep them going for the day. i don't have a problem with that. its going to cost me 50 bucks for the sand blasting and acid primer etching after blasting. do i need high temp paint or can i go with regular paint on the base?

whistlenut · By: **whistlenut** On: Mon Jan 23, 2012 11:36 pm

The exhaust side of the base will see some heat, and it isn't a big deal to use high temp. Pretend it is a xmas early present. I told you to 'go easy' with the fire wrench, so listen to Jay when he advises you of a safe way to go ahead.
Keep reading....don't loose track of the mission, and you will be back up and running very quickly. You know where parts are available, so don't think that brandy new is always a requirement.
The 'wet motor' says to me: GET A NEW OR SPARE right now. If you thing Prof Murphy won't slap you right up the side of your head when you least expect, YOU LOSE! Can't outsmart an old fool.
Missing much skin yet? If not, you aren't working hard enough on it yet! :shock:

Rick 386 · By: **Rick 386** On: Tue Jan 24, 2012 12:10 am

Just picked up one of these little jems.

http://www.theinductor.com/index.php

It will be used when I redo the AA this summer. BTW, I could be renting this tool out for the right price...... :beer:

And do a google search for media blasting. There are a lot of alternatives to sand blasting that are not so harmful to metal parts.

Rick

refurbishing a efm 350

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