refurbishing a efm 350

Rick, that looks like a very handy tool. Which model will you be getting?

Rick,
have you used it yet,and if so or when you do let us know how it worked and how long it took to heat up the parts. Looks can sometimes be decieving.It certinly would be nice in those tight spots without burning all the rubber componets and wires.

If its anything like the induction units I have used, it will heat to red hot in 90 seconds or less. I've never seen one that is as portable as yours. How much it set you back?

I bought the mini ductor with the corresponding coil set.

I just tried it on a 5/8" diameter bolt that had a nut on it that required a 1 1/16" wrench. Now they were not rusted at all.

From start at room temp until the nut was cherry red took 2 minutes. That's all. The 5/8" bolt is actually on an eye ring that I use for frame straightening. I held the eye ring the entire time. Only 5 minutes later was the temp getting to the eye bolt end.

First time I ever used the tool. The coil set contains 1 3/4", 1 1/2", 1 1/4", 1", 7/8" short, 7/8" long, and a 3/4" preformed coils. Each preformed coil is either 3 or 4 coils that go around the nut. The basic kit contains 2 strands of heat coil material. 1 is flexible to conform to whatever shape you need.


I'm impressed to say the least. Cost a pretty penny, but I'm sure it will benefit me in the long run.

It seems like I am getting more and more rusted vehicles to work on thanks to PENNDOT and their damed salt brine on the roads......

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ETA: Chris it was a slightly used unit on the Snap On truck for $550 + tax. Payable on weekly payments

I've been meaning to get 1 for years to help me remove body side moldings and decals from the side of vehicles without damaging them. I have even heard that they can be used to remove windshields and side glasses. But I'll wait to try that later.

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Rick

the big tool trucks have sold them for years,ex. snap,mack,matc..... they are great

exhaust flanges,suspension bolts,ect

once the nut is hot its time to act!! if the heat transfers to the stud before the socket turns and redirects the heat then like a torch transfering the heat......stud snaps

its a "technique" nice thing is no collateral damage from flames...

well up date on the EFM. got the DHW pouch plate installed today. cleaned up a few parts in the sand blaster for paint. that's going to be it for a couple of weeks. boiler is on hold. wife's car needs a trans. so there went my boiler budget.

what i started with

after cutting. i wish i had a plasma cutter. and i know i shake a lot. if you noticed in the top right and top left of the boiler i added lifting eyes. also added one to the front. three points of lift. its a lot nicer balancing it on the engine hoist now.

big whole now what?

sorry forgot to take pictures in between these two.
the finished pouch plate.


edit:-- extra info

Superb job you're doing there.

Isn't it is amazing that where most would see a crappy rusted pile of metal...there are others who see a potential fine workhorse of a home heating machine.

You are going to be one happy camper when this all comes together.
And you will be proud of it and your accomplishments big time.

Hoping you fair well on that transmission in the wife's car.

McGiever wrote:Superb job you're doing there.

Isn't it is amazing that where most would see a crappy rusted pile of metal...there are others who see a potential fine workhorse of a home heating machine.

You are going to be one happy camper when this all comes together.
And you will be proud of it and your accomplishments big time.

Hoping you fair well on that transmission in the wife's car.

slow and steady, slow and steady, wins the race. who am i kidding i want this boiler running yesterday. but my battery's in my magic wand are dead and i can't find replacements. so its slow and steady. ok ok its just slow.

before


after


it looked like i was going to need a new sprocket. it looked worn out. i took it all apart and sand blasted all the parts. after inspection it was fine. it looked great for being 50+ years old. i found a broken shear pin. with no worm bushings its going to break. guess the old owner didn't know enough or care to fix it.

for giggles i put the dial indicator on the shaft. it has .04 to .06 deflection in the bushings.

Thanks for the progress report. Keep at it, you'll get it done.

Windago, nice welds!!!! Keep up the great work. Looking forward to seeing your project completed. Thanks for the pics.

well started on the base. i had some gifts for the project. i got some stainless steel. 18 gauge. it was scrap stainless from a local place. they couldn't use it. it had blemishes. fine for me, it doesn't have to look pretty, just last. well the frame is regular steel and all the panels will be stainless. except for the ash clean out door. its going to be 1/4 plate. this one will not rot out in my life time. this what i got done after work. not bad for four hours. i hope to have it done this weekend.

btw this is all stuff that ive had as scrap from other jobs. i collect pieces that people don't want and they sit in the corner until its needed. it is amazing what people throw out these days.

It IS amazing what people throw out these days. And the scrap yard is filled with people selling scavenged stuff from the sidewalks. I took some scrap that I'd normally have given to recycling and drove away with $58 yesterday.

windago wrote:well up date on the EFM. got the DHW pouch plate installed today. cleaned up a few parts in the sand blaster for paint. that's going to be it for a couple of weeks. boiler is on hold. wife's car needs a trans. so there went my boiler budget.

what i started with

2012-01-21_20-22-08_883.jpg

after cutting. i wish i had a plasma cutter. and i know i shake a lot. if you noticed in the top right and top left of the boiler i added lifting eyes. also added one to the front. three points of lift. its a lot nicer balancing it on the engine hoist now.

2012-02-04_20-23-06_387.jpg

big whole now what?

2012-02-04_20-23-23_15.jpg

sorry forgot to take pictures in between these two.
the finished pouch plate.

2012-02-04_21-53-32_60.jpg

edit:-- extra info

Quick note if that is the new style coil plate extended flange from efm the old DHW coil plate does not fit bolt pattern on new flange takes new style coil efm switch to the same bolt pattern when they started to make extended flange that is on oil boilers so the old coal stoker coils do to fit must buy new style oil boiler coil when fitting new extended coil flange.

Hopefully you built it yourself and copied the same bolt pattern as old one if not you will need a new style coil to fit it .

windago wrote:before

2012-01-21_15-59-31_117.jpg

after

2012-02-05_15-19-24_547.jpg

it looked like i was going to need a new sprocket. it looked worn out. i took it all apart and sand blasted all the parts. after inspection it was fine. it looked great for being 50+ years old. i found a broken shear pin. with no worm bushings its going to break. guess the old owner didn't know enough or care to fix it.

for giggles i put the dial indicator on the shaft. it has .04 to .06 deflection in the bushings.

The sear pin is on the sq end of shaft where the manual crank handle goes on there is a shear pin in front not the auger end they are cotter pins one holds shaft coupler to shaft the other holds pot auger on the other end of shaft coupler The auger bushing is on pot auger shaft which goes inside of pot bushing inside pot housing the shaft bushing is before the shaft coupler on the shaft also there is a thrush washer that should be looked at and replaced if there is any curves cut in it it is between drum gear and adjuster plate on shaft .