Barometric Damper and Draft Inducer settings

Barometric Damper and Draft Inducer settings

PostBy: Ryckee On: Mon Jan 23, 2012 3:05 pm

I am very new to the Coal Stoker forum but from what I have read so far, most of you seem as excited about this stuff as I am now becoming. I recently purchased a used Leisure Line Hyfire II and the setup and operation was so much simpler than I expected, but I still have some questions on the not so simple settings of the Barometric Damper and Draft Inducer settings.

I use the included TS2 Coal-trol, which has operated the Hyfire temperature, coal feeder and blowers perfectly by simply adjusting the temperature on the Coal-trol.

I don't have any tools to take readings of the CO2 or other draft measurements over the fire or in the combustion chamber to know how to set the Barometric Damper. Also I presume all change based on how the stoker is operating; low maintaining the temp vs. high increasing the temp.
Q1 - In general, should the Barometric Damper barely open (bounce just a little bit) when operating in normal conditions (stove maintaining existing temp.)?

Q2 - I also installed a DI-2 Draft Inducer because my chimney is only 5", so I purchased it before testing anything presuming it would be necessary, specifically since I am using the Hyfire II with both burners running near full output (180,000 BTUs) to heat my 3800 sqft house. I attached it to the end of the exhaust pipe just in front of where it connects to the 6" to 5" neck-down duct adapter at the chimney. It is currently about 2' up from the Barometric Damper. It has a rheostat to control the air flow / fan speed but I don't know what is ideal or what signs I should look for to know how low or high it should be set. Set on low, medium or high it does not seem to affect the stoves performance either way, presumed because the Hyfire II blowers are doing what they are supposed to do. But I want to be sure I am not wasting heat by sucking too much hot air from the stove unnecessarily or also running the DI-2 unnecessarily, wasting electric and motor life.

I appreciate any advice from all Stoker enthusiasts, specfically the awesome Leisure Line Hyfire II folks like myself.
Ryckee
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Hyfire II

Re: Barometric Damper and Draft Inducer settings

PostBy: Dennis On: Mon Jan 23, 2012 3:19 pm

this may help with the draft inducer,someone else who has the hayfire II will help you Tjernlund AD-1 Draft Adjustments
Dennis
 
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: AHS/WOC55-multi-fuel/wood,oil,coal
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/stove size

Re: Barometric Damper and Draft Inducer settings

PostBy: LsFarm On: Mon Jan 23, 2012 3:42 pm

Hello Ryckee, and welcome to the forum

You really can't adjust the baro with out a Manometer. And adding the additional variable of the draft inducer, well that REALLY makes it difficult
without a Manometer to check the actual draft.

First, how tall is the chimney, from where your flue enters the chimney to the top? Is it Masonry or a prefab ss chimney? Is the INSIDE of the chimney 5" or just the 'thimble' where the flue enteres the chimney.?

If the whole chimney is at least 6" you can replace the 'thimble' with a 6" one, and get rid of the adapter AND the draft inducer in all likelyhood.

Draft inducers are RARELY needed unless the chimney is very short, and small diameter.

Without the draft inducer, and without a manometer, the baro's door should flap open when a strong gust of wind blow around/over the house, the idea of the baro is to provide a steady, measured draft to keep the exhaust from the fire moving up the chimney and not out into the room.. any more draft than that, and the chimney is pulling too much heat out of the stove.

Post where you live/are located, maybe someone on the forum can bring over a manometer to set up your system..
BUT I highly recommend buying a Dwyer Manometer, look for the thread about hooking one up, it's a sticky at the top of the forum page,

Hope this helpss.

Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Visit Lehigh Anthracite

Re: Barometric Damper and Draft Inducer settings

PostBy: Ryckee On: Mon Jan 23, 2012 4:07 pm

Hi Greg, thanks for the awesome info.

- I would guestimate the chimeny to be ~40 feet tall (basement thimble 10ft + (2) floors above 20ft + valted ceiling 4ft + stack is ~6ft off the roof to top of chimney).
- I believe it is a prefab chimney liner because the parts coming out at the thimble and top of the stack are terracotta. The chimney itself is made from cinder block.
- I believe my entire chimeny is 5" diameter, not just the thimble (5" terrocotta top and bottom entry/exit points).
- The stoker is in my basement, there is little or no air movement.
- I live in Allentown, PA 18104 behind Dorney Park and would be willing to pay a reasonable 1hr fee for someone to come out and do a "onceover" of my entire system.

Thanks again!
Ryckee
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Hyfire II

Re: Barometric Damper and Draft Inducer settings

PostBy: LsFarm On: Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:12 pm

Add Allentown to your signature, where you have your stove listed.
Hopefully someone in the area will be able to help.

I like people to have a full time manometer, they cost about ~$35, with a full time meter monitoring your draft, you can see
a clogged flue pipe from accumulated fly ash, BEFORE the CO alarm goes off..

OH< you do have at least 2 Carbon Monoxide alarms in the house, right?? CO alarms are very important with coal, the CO will
not be accompanied by a lot of stink of creosote or smoke like a problem with a wood fire, so the alarms are mandatory.

With a 40' chimney, it should just about suck your toupe off your head as you walk by the chimney !! :shock: , so once the
chimney is warm it should need a Baro, NOT a draft inducer.

What i meant by 'prefab' is one of the insulated or tripple wall Stainless Steel chimney systems. What you have is the best there is
for burning coal.. but 5 " is an odd size, I susppect it's a 6" square terracotta liner in the block chimney, it should have lots of draft.

If you hold a candle, cigarette, inscence stick, something to generate smoke, near the baro, and push the door open, with the Draft
inducer off, does the flame/smoke get drawn into the flue pipe? DO you have a cap on the chimney? sometimes they get clogged with
leaves or birds nests, or hornets nests. and cause the chimney to stop drawing. another reason to have a full time manometer.

Check out the manometer thread for links to full time retailers that carry them. MAKE SURE you get the one recommended. It's
scale is from -.05 to +.3. your normal readings will be in the .03-.05 range, so you want an expanded scale, so you are seeing a reading
wider than a pencil mark..

Greg L
LsFarm
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland

Re: Barometric Damper and Draft Inducer settings

PostBy: Ryckee On: Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:56 pm

Ok Greg, again thanks for the infor.
I updated my signature. What do think?
Ryckee
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Leisure Line Hyfire II

Re: Barometric Damper and Draft Inducer settings

PostBy: WNY On: Mon Jan 23, 2012 6:01 pm

5" seems a bit small for 180,000BTU output. If you can, keep it 6", which is the output of the stove.

How tall is your chimney? You must not have enough draft, if you are using the draft inducer. But without a draft gauge, you will not know what it is.

Yes, a Manometer/Draft gauge is a must for setting any type of draft.
WNY
 
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Keystoker 90K, Leisure Line Hyfire I
Coal Size/Type: Rice
Stove/Furnace Make: Keystoker, LL & CoalTrol
Stove/Furnace Model: 90K, Hyfire I, VF3000 Soon

Re: Barometric Damper and Draft Inducer settings

PostBy: Rick 386 On: Mon Jan 23, 2012 10:47 pm

Ryckee,

As the others have said, you really do need a manometer to be able to check your draft properly. check ebay.

One thing you can check right now. If you have both burners running close to full, set the baro to .4. Turn off the draft inducer and see if the baro is slightly opening. If it does, you may not need that inducer. Running the stove with too much draft will suck the heat right out of it.



Rick
Rick 386
 
Stoker Coal Boiler: AA 260 heating both sides of twin farmhouse
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: LL Hyfire II w/ coaltrol in garage
Coal Size/Type: Pea in AA 260, Rice in LL Hyfire II
Other Heating: Gas fired infared at work

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