Since this forum has slowed down recently, I thought I would post my experience hooking up my koker to the coal-trol for critiquing and possible use in the future as tips for someone else.
To start with, I wired the load side of the high temp limit switch (the red e-wire that is hooked to the upper right, temp limit side of the fan limit switch) into a new outlet box utilizing the existing neutral and ground wires on the stove (stove still needs to be plugged in to provide a path for the neutrals and grounds). This allows the new outlet to totally shut down via the limit switch if the koker overheats. Since I disconnected the limit wire at the junction box (where it was connected to the stoker and idle timer lines), that effectively shut the idle timer down.
Stoker motor – pretty straight forward, it is at the end of the stoker/combustion fan circuit so I just re-wired it to a new plug
Combustion fan - re-wired that to a new plug so the coal-trol would control it. With the coal-trol plugged into the new temp limit controlled outlet, both the stoker AND combustion blower will shut down in an over-heating event. This is actually better than the factory wiring that came with the stove, as only the stoker motor was wired to turn off if the limit switch tripped.
Convection blower – this was another easy wiring job. The conv. blower is on a separate circuit controlled by the fan limit switch so I just disconnected it and wired it to a new plug.
It took me about ½ hour to set it up, but unfortunately I did it while the stove was on idle so my fire went out while I had the stove shut off, so I just had to start the fire again once I was done. All wires that were undone and not used by the coal trol were secured with wire nuts so no wire was left exposed since the stove itself was still plugged in and some of them may still carry a charge.
MIN/MAX – I started with the installation pamphlet’s suggested starting values of 10 and 80, but found them to be way too high. With these settings I had about 2-3” of red coals on idle and burning coal being pushed off the stoker grate at full burn. I reduced the min down to 4 and that gives me a good 1” burn across the entire grate and reduced the max to 45 which gave me 1.5 to 2” of ash, but running with that value the first night, the stove couldn’t keep up with the temp drop in the house. I re-did the max setting and found 55 to leave just shy of an inch worth of ash on the grate. I found the coal trol still lagging behind slightly at that setting so I boosted it to 65 and that seems to help decrease the stove’s response time. I did max the stove out with the 65 setting, and it pushed hot coals off the grate but my federates don’t climb much past 50 (so far) so I am not at risk of pushing hot coals into the bucket under normal heating circumstances, unless my feed rates go way up (will have to keep my eye on it if we actually get some cold temps).
My convection blower was problematic, through no fault of the coal-trol. Due to the nature of the blower (Dayton 1XJX8), it can only be run at a minimum CFM setting of 40, which is pretty much full speed. So, the blower would kick on at a feed rate of 8 (low fire and low bonnet temp) and the stove would really have to work to produce enough heat to overcome the blower constantly washing the bonnet of its heat. I ended up hooking the blower back to the stove’s fan limit switch rather than raising the CFT to better utilize the heat generated at low feed rates.
It has been working very well at maintaining the set temp. I am not using any setbacks and from what I have experienced, set backs are not worth it. Even while making adjustments to tune it in, it took quite a while for the thermostat to settle in. There was no problem with the hardware, the system would just have to go through its learning curve at each change in order to settle in.
So please let me reiterate some words of wisdom: as with other adjustments on coal stoves, once everything is set, don’t FUSS with it, just leave it alone and let it do its thing!!!