Custom Enclosure for Wood Boiler?

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 10:22 pm

stoker_RI wrote:The question is, tho, does it like fire or not?....that's the crux of the whole thing here...

Rated for 250*F

stoker_RI · Post by **stoker_RI** » Thu. Feb. 02, 2012 10:44 pm

McGiever wrote:
stoker_RI wrote:The question is, tho, does it like fire or not?....that's the crux of the whole thing here...
Rated for 250*F

Thanks!, might be cutting it a bit close..is the stuff expensive? I'd def have to keep it well clear of the flue..How thick is it agian? I'm wondering if i'd still have to put 'bones' under it...

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Fri. Feb. 03, 2012 12:08 am

http://www.ehow.com/how_6670079_fabricate-fibergl ... -duct.html

I have no idea of pricing.

Not exactly what you are wanting to do, but other discussions...

Running Fiberglass Duct Board?

dave brode · Post by **dave brode** » Thu. Feb. 09, 2012 10:03 pm

stoker_RI wrote:
If I were to pick up some sheet metal, I would need to cut it to size of course, AND drill/make some cut outs for pipes..what tool/method would you reccommend?..straight tin snips?

Straight [yellow] snips are not really much good for anything but straight cuts on very short mat'l. Reds or greens will cut straight too, just like yellows. Reds - right hand, cut left or straight. Greens - left hand, cut right or straight. The "tilted" style are MUCH easier to use for cutting smaller holes. [see pics at links below]

Wiss were my favorite, but afaik, they went to china recently [like visegrip

] You might find USA made at lowes for a while.

These are pretty good.
**Broken Link(s) Removed**
You could easily cut a 3" hole with those "angled" type. You need a 1" or so hole to get started. Use hole saws or stepped "bits" for smaller holes.

I prefer the older style below, but most folks find the angled style easier to use, ESP for cutting holes in the middle of a sheet.
**Broken Link(s) Removed**For insulation, I used 2 layers of common 1" black sound liner for heat insulation under a galvanized skin on my old 5 section boiler [used inside ductwork, common at most larger duct shops]. When it was hand fired, it saw 240* water often. Liner was still good when I junked the boiler.

As a tin banger, you might guess what I think of fiberglass ductboard, although it would work fine for insulation for you imo [probably much more money than the black duct liner]

Dave
p.s. - yes, you need both red AND green

dave brode · Post by **dave brode** » Thu. Feb. 09, 2012 10:17 pm

stoker_RI wrote:
Freddy wrote:I've always thought those electric tin shears might be a good answer. They aren't as expensive as they were 10 years ago. Here's a link to show you. Other than that a pair of quality shears does a good job if you have the wrist for it.
Ya...the tin snips should flare up my elbow tendonitis in quick time!

I checked out the link...think it said the elec. tin shears goes thru 14-18 guage...what guage is standard sheet metal anyway?

Those "double cut" shears don't make sharp turns well at all, although they are very nice for straight cuts.

Most house duct is somewhere between 24 and 28 gauge, depending on the shop. That ceiling wall angle is probably 28 or 30. I would use 22 or 24 galv for a boiler jacket. I would bend 90s on the panels, but any duct shop could bend you some 1' x 1' angle from whatever gauge you want, if you would want to use flat sheets and seperate corner angles. I'd use 20 or 22 for seperate corners.

http://www.custompartnet.com/sheet-metal-gauge

Dave

stoker_RI · Post by **stoker_RI** » Fri. Feb. 10, 2012 8:24 am

Hi Dave..TY for all that good info..

I forget know..about gauge...Its the opposite of elec.wire, right? ( i.e where 12awg is heavier than 16awg), so with alumium, 14-18 gauge is more light weight that the 24 or so that you recommended..and therefore those elec. shears wouldn't plow thru it..

Do I have that right?

steamup · Post by **steamup** » Fri. Feb. 10, 2012 8:46 am

stoker_RI wrote:Hi Dave..TY for all that good info..

I forget know..about gauge...Its the opposite of elec.wire, right? ( i.e where 12awg is heavier than 16awg), so with alumium, 14-18 gauge is more light weight that the 24 or so that you recommended..and therefore those elec. shears wouldn't plow thru it..

Do I have that right?

Wrong, Same as electrical wire, smaller the number the thicker the sheetmetal.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sheet_metal

dave brode · Post by **dave brode** » Thu. Feb. 16, 2012 9:03 pm

stoker,

As steamup wrote, larger number gauge = thinner.

Unlike stees, sheet alum is most often sized by the actual thickness, example: .032", .040" etc.

http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8375-6061.aspx

http://www.speedymetals.com/s-159-galvanized.aspx

Dave