Custom Enclosure for Wood Boiler?

Hey guys..
I have a LL110 coal/oil boiler and a supplemental wood boiler plumbed into a primary loop..both are in my garage..the wood boiler holds 130 gal of water, and surrounds the fire box..I believe it is cast iron..
anyway, the beast surface temp never gets over that of the interior water temp, but it has no insulation, and being in my garage, the trick all these years was to keep the heat from radiating off of it...I have done this by using various forms of insulation..its effective, but sloppy and needs to be re-worked often.
I am looking for ideas for a more permanent sourround for it..I will still have the insulation first, and then the enclosure...sure..if I had a big sheet metal brake that would be the way to go..but not an option..so I'm thinking what materials would be safe for the structure and enclosure...I keep thinking perhaps angle iron and cement board? Would anyone chance a wood structure? My first layer of insulation IS K-Wool..which has a temp limit up to 1200* and the boiler surface doesn't get hotter than 200..but idk...looking for opinions..
THANKS

I doubt any solution that could be dreamed up would be a less money than ...here is a dirty word...paying a sheet metal shop (who have a big sheet metal brake) to whip-up something to your dimensions.

You of course, would do all the sweaty labor of installing it...so no paying there.

OMG!...Bite your tongue!...lol...its really not about the $$ tho..I just know me..if I have to end up going that route, it prolly wont get done...
I built, wired, plumbed, fixed and shed blood all over this place..found problems and came up with solutions...maybe its the challage?..the diy-er spirit? Idk...the neccessity is outweighed by the intrigue I think...
I bet u can relate...with such an avitar have you!

How about metal studs and metal siding? Reasonable cost, easy to do it yurself and it gives you plenty of room to pack in the insulation.

stoker_RI wrote:OMG!...Bite your tongue!...lol...its really not about the $$ tho..I just know me..if I have to end up going that route, it prolly wont get done...
I built, wired, plumbed, fixed and shed blood all over this place..found problems and came up with solutions...maybe its the challage?..the diy-er spirit? Idk...the neccessity is outweighed by the intrigue I think...
I bet u can relate...with such an avitar have you!

Oh, believe me, I fit that profile to a "T"

But in a weaker moment, I accidentally found out how reasonably it cost to have some sheet metal work farmed out. I have the necessary skills to produce detailed "working drawings" and know a excellent "tin knocker" that is willing to work w/ me.

I like *Scottscoaled's* idea alot, but like I said...it would not be less money.

I like the metal stud idea.

How about sheet metal and pop rivets? Use the "angle iron" that's used on the edges of a hung ceiling for the corners. No need for a break that way.

Freddy nice idea with the corners..I even have some of that lying around left over from installing a drop ceiling...

Altho..lacking a brake, and you being the tin man that you are, , If I were to pick up some sheet metal, I would need to cut it to size of course, AND drill/make some cut outs for pipes..what tool/method would you reccommend?..straight tin snips?

I have the greatest solution, but not always available

Few month ago while with my buddy at the local junkyard, someone dropped what seems a great huge all stainless steel like new walking cooler, and my buddy almost picked it up, and when I asked why, he told me it would make a great outdoor enclosure for a coal or a wood stove.
Think about it: worst case, you may have to change the type of insulation to high temp insulation, and put in a hole for exhaust and a small one for combustion air, you have the switches, you can change the thermostat, you have outlets, lights, double pane insulated door, and why not, if you can pick it up by the weight at about 75 cents a pound., it's a good deal !

Any objections ?

Hey..it might be able to double as a sauna!
Actually, in my case, size matters...ideally I need the enclosure to be just a wee bit bigger than the boiler...this is in the garage after all, and floor space is at a premium....cool idea tho....

I've always thought those electric tin shears might be a good answer. They aren't as expensive as they were 10 years ago. Here's a link to show you. Clamp a 2 by 4 as a guide if you need a straight line. Other than that a pair of quality shears does a good job if you have the wrist for it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Power- ... 256c05ecb4

Freddy wrote:I've always thought those electric tin shears might be a good answer. They aren't as expensive as they were 10 years ago. Here's a link to show you. Other than that a pair of quality shears does a good job if you have the wrist for it.

Ya...the tin snips should flare up my elbow tendonitis in quick time!

I checked out the link...think it said the elec. tin shears goes thru 14-18 guage...what guage is standard sheet metal anyway?

Here another idea instead of metal, use fiberglass duct board, cut to fit, either buy 1'',1''5 or 2'' thick, you should buy it from a HVAC place. The only tools you need is a knife and a tape measure, plus silver tape to put em together
Gerard

You know....I don't think that I am familiar with that material!

The question is, tho, does it like fire or not?....that's the crux of the whole thing here...

Believe it or not, all duct-work is not made of tin.

Buy 4' x8' reinforced foil covered fiberglass duct panels, set up some saw horses to make a work table, measure, then cut 45* angle w/ a knife and roll metal tape at corners and joints. The pros even have a knife that cut a 90* "V" groove thru the thick fiberglass down close to the reinforced foil covering and that saves some corners from needing the tape. For most standard size ducts you only need to tape on one corner, you just bend and close the 90*'s for the other 3 corners.

http://www.certainteed.com/Products/317382

Are you afraid you are loosing too much heat through the structure? I don't think it is worth the effort unless you just have to savor every BTU you produce. Steel roofing in what the OWB guys use on steel studs with a steel base framework.
Fiberglass batts or rigid sheets will not burn, and don't forget the damned thing never gets over 200 max...more like 165 to 180. I'd insulate the garage better and enjoy the comfort of having a warm place to work in.