Hi,
I have LL Pocono 90K BTU unit in my basement I have been using for 5 years, its a GREAT stove! It has the stock 256CFM convection blowers. I know they make optional larger CFM blowers, but I have not been able find the part numbers. I did a quick search here, with no luck, so I was wondering if someone could give me a part number, and specs on the larger CFM blowers for the pocono.
I could call the dealer, but I was wondering if someone here would know.
Thansk
Pocono Optional Convection Blowers
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Uglysquirrel
- Member
- Posts: 1205
- Joined: Mon. Jan. 07, 2008 8:27 pm
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/hvac/blowers/ce ... s-1650-rpm
Check out the OEM convection blower (ulr suggests 230 V though description says otherwise)
Consider that just because you have more cfm with larger cfm motors as proposed in the Poke you will not get 2X the heat out. There is only so much heat that can be transferred from the metal firebox surface backside and top for a given metal temp and with that increased air volume, all you are doing is pushing out more cfm with the air temp being lower, kind of like a inverse proportionality between air temp and cfm.
If LL wants to derive more heat from the firebox, increasing metal area in the form of welded fins on the exterior of the firebox in the flow area would likely help, kind of like fins on a power supply. I'd be concerned about LL doing this since every weld is a stress riser that may cause cracking after some seasons due hot/cold cycling causing low cycle fatigue cracking potentially into the firebox wall. Doing it yourself would also potentially void the stoves certification for insurance purposes. Nay-Nay.
Want a real low cost heat boost ? Clean the ash off the back and top of the stove's firebox with scrapers and brushes as the stove is idling. That will increase the metal temp which will result in more heat transfer onto the air passing by.
Check out the OEM convection blower (ulr suggests 230 V though description says otherwise)
Consider that just because you have more cfm with larger cfm motors as proposed in the Poke you will not get 2X the heat out. There is only so much heat that can be transferred from the metal firebox surface backside and top for a given metal temp and with that increased air volume, all you are doing is pushing out more cfm with the air temp being lower, kind of like a inverse proportionality between air temp and cfm.
If LL wants to derive more heat from the firebox, increasing metal area in the form of welded fins on the exterior of the firebox in the flow area would likely help, kind of like fins on a power supply. I'd be concerned about LL doing this since every weld is a stress riser that may cause cracking after some seasons due hot/cold cycling causing low cycle fatigue cracking potentially into the firebox wall. Doing it yourself would also potentially void the stoves certification for insurance purposes. Nay-Nay.
Want a real low cost heat boost ? Clean the ash off the back and top of the stove's firebox with scrapers and brushes as the stove is idling. That will increase the metal temp which will result in more heat transfer onto the air passing by.
My brother bought his pocono 3 years ago with the option of 2 six inch duct collars in the top . He wanted more cfm coming out the ducts so I fabricated a set of adapters to mount 2 twin a 455 fasco motors . The adapters bolt right 2 the mounts that are already on the back of the unit then u bolt the a455 to that I also used cork gaskets on the connections. The a455 is a capacitor supported motor with very good cfm in relation to static pressure. The motor is 2 speed but when u switch your cord off the old motors you just wire them on high. what is nice about them being capacitor supported the amp draw for cfm is very good. My brother is so pleased with this set up he is heating 2800 square feet and works great. I will see if I can get some pictures.
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coalforlife
- New Member
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Wed. Oct. 05, 2011 12:02 pm
Last year I built my own hot air jacket for my Pocono back vent. My design is a bit differernt than most hot air jacket implementations, but it works quite well!
I have my stove sitting right next to my forced hot air furnace, when I installed it 6 years ago I simply had a 12" collar welded on the top, and I used a 12"elbow and ducted right into the hot air side of the existing duct work. I simply using the 2x 256CFM blowers to move air from the stove into the duct work, and throughout the house. This worked fairly well until it real cold and windy, then we had to supplement with the oil furnace. I really liked the flexability because most of the heating season, it was sufficiant, and it kept the house very consistent.
What I ended up doing is quite unique, comparded to most hot air jacket installations. With typical jackets, you duct the stove into the cold air side of the furnace, remove the 2 convection blowers, and install a fan limit switch in the duct near the top of the stove in parallel with your existing furnace fan limit switch, and let the furnace blower pull the heat off the stove,
and into you existing duct work.
I left my 2x 256CFM blowers on the stove, left my 12" duct into the hot side, just as before. I then built a jacket around the 12 inch duct on top, and around the sides, much like the commercial jackets. I then cut a 10" round hole in top of the jacket, connected a 10" elbow, and ducted it into the cold side of my furnace, installed a fan limit switch in the duct near the top of the stove in parallel with the existing furnace fan limit switch.
This way in average temps, especially in Fall and Spring, the 2x 256CFM blowers on the stove push heat off the stove and into the hot side of the furnace duct work and into the house. When its cold and expecially windy, when the stove is working, the limit switch kicks on the furnace blower and pulls the heat off the sides of the stove, and into the furnace duct work.
This may sound crazy, but it works very well. Typically the furnace blower won't kick on until the feed rate is around 55 or so. It took me a while to get the limit switch kick on/off set where it worked the best. We have an old 2200 SQ foot 2 story farm house, and live about 1/2 hour NW of Cortland NY. If the wind isnt blowing, it will keep the house at 69, when its 16 below zero, zero, with the feed rate in the 70- 80's.
Thanks
I have my stove sitting right next to my forced hot air furnace, when I installed it 6 years ago I simply had a 12" collar welded on the top, and I used a 12"elbow and ducted right into the hot air side of the existing duct work. I simply using the 2x 256CFM blowers to move air from the stove into the duct work, and throughout the house. This worked fairly well until it real cold and windy, then we had to supplement with the oil furnace. I really liked the flexability because most of the heating season, it was sufficiant, and it kept the house very consistent.
What I ended up doing is quite unique, comparded to most hot air jacket installations. With typical jackets, you duct the stove into the cold air side of the furnace, remove the 2 convection blowers, and install a fan limit switch in the duct near the top of the stove in parallel with your existing furnace fan limit switch, and let the furnace blower pull the heat off the stove,
and into you existing duct work.
I left my 2x 256CFM blowers on the stove, left my 12" duct into the hot side, just as before. I then built a jacket around the 12 inch duct on top, and around the sides, much like the commercial jackets. I then cut a 10" round hole in top of the jacket, connected a 10" elbow, and ducted it into the cold side of my furnace, installed a fan limit switch in the duct near the top of the stove in parallel with the existing furnace fan limit switch.
This way in average temps, especially in Fall and Spring, the 2x 256CFM blowers on the stove push heat off the stove and into the hot side of the furnace duct work and into the house. When its cold and expecially windy, when the stove is working, the limit switch kicks on the furnace blower and pulls the heat off the sides of the stove, and into the furnace duct work.
This may sound crazy, but it works very well. Typically the furnace blower won't kick on until the feed rate is around 55 or so. It took me a while to get the limit switch kick on/off set where it worked the best. We have an old 2200 SQ foot 2 story farm house, and live about 1/2 hour NW of Cortland NY. If the wind isnt blowing, it will keep the house at 69, when its 16 below zero, zero, with the feed rate in the 70- 80's.
Thanks