CapeCoaler wrote:Round concrete pit, Yes?...
Well water or town, Going to guess well...
The easiest way is to copy what you got...
Keep the pit 100' from well 50' from foundation...
dig new pit 30' from the old one and install new...
pipe it and done...
Pump the tank every 3 years or so and you will not plug the pit...
you'd throw in a dead cat to seed it with bacteria.
steamup wrote:The old beehive leach pits are no longer permitted.
steamup wrote:However, simple leach fields still are. IMO, a leach field is easier and safer to install than digging deep for a beehive structure if you have the space.
Shallow trenches, 4" perforated pvc pipe and some gravel and you are back in business. You just have to figure how many feet to install based on the percolation of the soil
Yes, I have rehabbed beehives myself and it was a lot of work but had to be done as there was no room for a leach field. Too much deep digging for my little backhoe.
Follow this link for design info.
http://www.health.ny.gov/environmental/ ... #appraisal
oldpaddy wrote:steamup wrote:The old beehive leach pits are no longer permitted.
Is there any reason why it has to be shallow? I'd rather have it a few feet down. Percs not a problem, it's beach sand.
dll wrote:Before you do anything you should analyze your current system.
First, is your water source from an on site well or town?
This will determine placement of one of the following.
Now what are your discharges to the current system.
Washing machine, is it top or front load, is it used a lot?
I have seen systems where the owner dug a dry well and diverted all the washing machine water into it. After a while the well will become saturated when this happens they move it to a new location.
This can take a substantial load off a system that is failing.
Do you have a garbage disposal unit attached to a sink?
Garbage disposals require a lot more capacity in a septic design due to slower breakdown of the solids.
If you have one, stop using it and start a compost pile.