New Stove Plymouth 14

kstone, these stoves, when in good shape are among the easiest ones to control. When you get used to it you will find it very easy to make the stove do what YOU want it to do. And what is fun with these stoves is that you don't have to change the way they are made. They were made to do a job and they do it the right way.
The best results are with the fire pot loaded to the top of it, many use nut size. According to you heat demand you will see if you need to shake 1 or 2 times for a 24Hrs period. Every installations are different so not the same solution for everybody.

it looks like you have an indirect back pipe like my Glenwood #30 due to the flapper lever at the top of the tube mine is a bit lower but I think from your pics they are bascially the same.
Mine runs real well with a full pot of Nut ...as far as a sweet spot you will figure that one out on your own as you fire that ol gal as you add air she will react differently so ya need to play with her to find that spot where she makes heat an likes it.
I have found that letting it liven up well after 12 hrs. or more is a must ..open the dampers and let her breath for 10 minutes or so to get a good heat build up before shaking down ( make a cup of coffee and have a smoke) ...or whatever your routine is and then fill her back up to the top of the firepot ...on mine I always give it a mound at the top of the pot like one more scoop so she has plenty of fuel incase I get held up and don't get back to her for 15 or 17 hrs.....that way she always has a good charge burnin away.
You can expect some great heat outta her once you get her dialed in and workin but that takes time and a little patience ...you will figure her out just like a woman ...lol

1, Stove is running good dancing blue ladies @ 5 to 7 inch tall slow bending and going toward exhaust port in back off stove.
2, chamber temp off 500's on skin
3, down tube temp 400's
4, up tube temp 325's
5, exhaust elbow temp 275's

The draft reading under mpd is .02
The draft reading above baro T is .04
The draft if I block off the baro is .06 and climbs to .07 in @ 5 min with skin temp going down to mid 400's but down pipe temp going up to high 500's as well as uptube this set off condition was with mpd closed

With this set off number's it seem the baro might be leaving the heat in the stove, bye limiting the draft to the mpd (and the fire box). So I have uncovered the baro and will do more investigating tomorrow. This was a very narrow time frame off only ten minutes. So this is no proof off anything but it works with the baro now with all other setting where they are ( air inlet and outside wind and temp, house temp ect. )

So nice to see dancing blue ladies from coal fire but yet so painful from propane

Hi Kstone, did you ever have the back diverter pipe off or apart? Do the exhaust gasses circulate in the base of the stove at all ??

Or do the hot gasses just go down one side of the pipe, reverse directions and go back up the other side of the pipe and out to the chimney?

I'm currious if the hot exhaust gasses go around the ashpan or under the ashpan??

Greg L

kstone wrote:1, Stove is running good dancing blue ladies @ 5 to 7 inch tall slow bending and going toward exhaust port in back off stove.
2, chamber temp off 500's on skin
3, down tube temp 400's
4, up tube temp 325's
5, exhaust elbow temp 275's

The draft reading under mpd is .02
The draft reading above baro T is .04
The draft if I block off the baro is .06 and climbs to .07 in @ 5 min with skin temp going down to mid 400's but down pipe temp going up to high 500's as well as uptube this set off condition was with mpd closed

With this set off number's it seem the baro might be leaving the heat in the stove, bye limiting the draft to the mpd (and the fire box). So I have uncovered the baro and will do more investigating tomorrow. This was a very narrow time frame off only ten minutes. So this is no proof off anything but it works with the baro now with all other setting where they are ( air inlet and outside wind and temp, house temp ect. )

So nice to see dancing blue ladies from coal fire but yet so painful from propane

You must have a powerful draft on your chimney. With everything set right and if you have no leaks anywhere, the stack temperature should be around 150 degrees at the point where the stove pipe goes into the chimney thimble. Remember that your stove pipe is also a radiant surface. Three sections of stove pipe have as much radiant area as many small stoves. If your ash pit door is properly seated and your primary damper is tight, that should be enough to have total control over the fire.
You might have a leak somewhere.
Be patient, you still have a lot of learning to do.
My Glenwood No 9 which about the same size as yours is allowed to run at around 400 degrees on the barrel as the crusing temperature when it is really cold outside. The stack thermometer is about I and a half pipe lengths above the exhaust collar and it stays around 120 degrees.

LsFarm wrote:Hi Kstone, did you ever have the back diverter pipe off or apart? Do the exhaust gasses circulate in the base of the stove at all ??

Or do the hot gasses just go down one side of the pipe, reverse directions and go back up the other side of the pipe and out to the chimney?

I'm currious if the hot exhaust gasses go around the ashpan or under the ashpan??

Greg L

The back of the stove the gases go out the barrel into the split pipe. At the top off the pipe there is a throttle plate / diverter plate that allow the gases to go over the top off the split plate and down 1/3 off the way and out the chimney pipe or it closes and forces 90 % down the split tube around the bottom off the pipe in to a cast iron box (this box is not plumbed into the intake box but there seems to be a solid wall of cast iron between the two "heat exchanger?") then back up the other side off the tube and out

wsherrick wrote:

kstone wrote:1, Stove is running good dancing blue ladies @ 5 to 7 inch tall slow bending and going toward exhaust port in back off stove.
2, chamber temp off 500's on skin
3, down tube temp 400's
4, up tube temp 325's
5, exhaust elbow temp 275's

The draft reading under mpd is .02
The draft reading above baro T is .04
The draft if I block off the baro is .06 and climbs to .07 in @ 5 min with skin temp going down to mid 400's but down pipe temp going up to high 500's as well as uptube this set off condition was with mpd closed

With this set off number's it seem the baro might be leaving the heat in the stove, bye limiting the draft to the mpd (and the fire box). So I have uncovered the baro and will do more investigating tomorrow. This was a very narrow time frame off only ten minutes. So this is no proof off anything but it works with the baro now with all other setting where they are ( air inlet and outside wind and temp, house temp ect. )

So nice to see dancing blue ladies from coal fire but yet so painful from propane

You must have a powerful draft on your chimney. With everything set right and if you have no leaks anywhere, the stack temperature should be around 150 degrees at the point where the stove pipe goes into the chimney thimble. Remember that your stove pipe is also a radiant surface. Three sections of stove pipe have as much radiant area as many small stoves. If your ash pit door is properly seated and your primary damper is tight, that should be enough to have total control over the fire.
You might have a leak somewhere.
Be patient, you still have a lot of learning to do.
My Glenwood No 9 which about the same size as yours is allowed to run at around 400 degrees on the barrel as the crusing temperature when it is really cold outside. The stack thermometer is about I and a half pipe lengths above the exhaust collar and it stays around 120 degrees.

The exhaust elbow I was taking temp on was the one connected to the stove. The temp at the elbow at the wall thimble is @ 120 to 175F (short side off elbow to long side off elbow) but when I blocked off the baro all of the temp's from the split pipe up threw the smoke pipe section's rose quickly in temp. The intake box door at first glance doesnt seem very air tight ( it doesnt have a latch or rope gasket) but it does have some machine surfaces that are close in fit and the latch that hold the door in place has two apposing surfaces that are beveled to keep the door tight other than that I bet if I turned the box on it side and filled with water it would hold (minus the 14 inch hole the barrel sit in lol)

picture all finished

Looks like the stove cement fairy found your stove!!
Get a manual damper and learn to use it and you will be thrilled. I have never seen a modern damper work well on an antique stove. It will take a few tries and about the time you get really frustrated , it will work and continue to work forever.
That looks like galvanized pipe. best to get rid of it. The zinc coating can produce some nasty vapors if you get it hot enough, and you will from time to time.
The 14 is, I think the largest of the plymouth stoves. It will make lots more heat than you think. You should replace the grate and draw center soon. Take them out and send them to a good foundry. ( Tomahawk in Rice Lake , Wisconsin is excellent). Have them recast and store the originals for when you need another new set. I usually cast 2-3 sets so I can never have down time. Disconnect the stove from the chimney in summer and that will help limit rust in the stove. Happy heating.

Hi Kstone, do you have a progress report on the '14' ?? That's a nice looking stove, not too much nickel, nice proportions..

Have you figured out how to burn it to your satisfaction??

Greg L

Shake it twice a day load it twice a day. This has worked so far been playing with air and damper settings with the change off temps has been fun 20's at night 55's in day lol.

Sounds like you have a good 'handle ' on it. Congratulations.

Greg L