Art Garland BaseBurner "Double Heater"

A lot of the best designed stoves had these flapper valves. Florence put one in the loading door to do the same thing I believe. This is an, "Automatic Check." They will work if the flapper valve is free to move as designed. Even though the opening is small, it is enough to take the edge off of a fire on the way to getting too hot. I'm sure you have a manual check damper as well.
I hope the missing back plate isn't too hard to obtain. Art Garlands were made for several decades and they are not that rare overall, so hopefully you can find it.

Very cool pix Greg!

Hi Greg.
Just be aware of that I got a patent(pending) on the nickel-plated number of parts for these stoves
Your stove seems more sofisticated than mine about the air channels going up to the convection dome... But I must study it a little more to be shure. William could certainly knows a lot about the differences and similitudes about them.
I got thousands reasons on the utility of that gravity flapper, so I decided to seal it on mine. I think it was the only one missing part on the Bride, so I made one but sealed it air tight. But easy to get back on work if needed to.
I think the idea about an auto. draft control damper can make the best answer about that flapper. Keep us informed on it if you make a baro testing.
Great photos. Thanks to share them.
On the photo showing the home-made flapper, you can see the shaker lever to rotate the outer grate and it's located below the flapper port and not beside it like on your's

nortcan wrote:Hi Greg.
Just be aware of that I got a patent(pending) on the nickel-plated number of parts for these stoves
Your stove seems more sofisticated than mine about the air channels going up to the convection dome... But I must study it a little more to be shure. William could certainly knows a lot about the differences and similitudes about them.
I got thousands reasons on the utility of that gravity flapper, so I decided to seal it on mine. I think it was the only one missing part on the Bride, so I made one but sealed it air tight. But easy to get back on work if needed to.
I think the idea about an auto. draft control damper can make the best answer about that flapper. Keep us informed on it if you make a baro testing.
Great photos. Thanks to share them.
On the photo showing the home-made flapper, you can see the shaker lever to rotate the outer grate and it's located below the flapper port and not beside it like on your's

As you have found out, there is not much the makers of these stoves did not think of. The brilliance of these designs should be plain to anyone. They had a complete understanding of combustion and the nature of coal. The really amazing thing is they managed to put all of this into a relatively compact, self contained unit where everything functions as intended.

To make some investigation on that flapper, I removed the seal around it this morning and will try to see if there are some changes.
Maybe on a very windy time it could let some air enter form it , then that air would rise in front of the fire pot then exit to the slot over the fire pot?????
On the last photo, you can see the flapper located just over the name plate.

Hmm, very nice find Greg!

On my stove, the two small flappers are at the bottom of the suspended firepot, I don't think the air pulled through the flappers can get up to above the firepot, it's pretty well sealed. I think in my stove the air entering the flappers would either be pulled throgh the manually opened damper on the back of the stove, or maybe go through the 'finger grooves' in the bottom of the firepot into the coal bed. But I think they should work when the back damper is opened.

Greg L

EDIT: I've been informed buy knowledgable forum member that the little flappers are access doors for a straight poker, that was supplied with the stove when new, The flapper is at the base of the firepot to access the fire at ash-level where a poke or two might be needed to break up an ash bridge or clinker. Neat idea and design.

I washed the fresh paint off the four vertical 'wings' and the three waist or foot rest pieces.. The plater gave me a reasonable price on these items, so they are going to get plated.

I'll finish cleaning up the finial and dome and take them in as well tomorrow.

I'm not sure about the base yet, I'm going to look at the stove with the base black, and see how it looks.

Greg L.

LsFarm wrote:I washed the fresh paint off the four vertical 'wings' and the three waist or foot rest pieces.. The plater gave me a reasonable price on these items, so they are going to get plated.

I'll finish cleaning up the finial and dome and take them in as well tomorrow.

I'm not sure about the base yet, I'm going to look at the stove with the base black, and see how it looks.

Greg L.

To get an idea about the look of parts like the base if nickel-plated, I wraped them with alu. foil and it gives a good idea if nickel-plated.
Just an idea!

Piere, I think that 's a very good idea, thanks..

Greg L.

Greg, some photos showing the foil effect.

nortcan..... down here in the township we would have just kept the aluminum foil on the stove. It would be a lot cheaper. All kidding aside, Greg has got himself one fine stove there.

buck24 wrote:nortcan..... down here in the township we would have just kept the aluminum foil on the stove.

thats redneck chrome

Dennis wrote:

buck24 wrote:nortcan..... down here in the township we would have just kept the aluminum foil on the stove.

thats redneck chrome

I resemble that !! I may leave the 'redneck nickel' on the stove,, the base was one of the most expensive items to plate.. one reason I'm thinking
of leaving it black.. I'll see my stove looks as nice as Piere's does without the base nickeled.

Greg L.

nortcan wrote:To make some investigation on that flapper, I removed the seal around it this morning and will try to see if there are some changes.
Maybe on a very windy time it could let some air enter form it , then that air would rise in front of the fire pot then exit to the slot over the fire pot?????
On the last photo, you can see the flapper located just over the name plate.

Piere, I think that the small flappers are meant to provide air through the manual check damper, I don't think that the gap you show with your hand over the top front lip of the firepot is intentional.. I think that is supposed to fit tighter,.

My firepot has a cast piece that 'holds it in place' and 'seals' the front lip of the firepot, this cast piece is also the part that the door's edges 'seal' against..

None of these seals are really that good, I'll have to see how good with a light or put a vacuum on the stove and see if it pulls in smoke around the doors.
I am planning on sealing the windows with Ultra Black,, i have it in stock all the time

Greg L