Old Stove BTU

LsFarm wrote:Hi Kstone, can you take some photos of the 'thumb lever' that seems to be stuck?? Inside and outside phtos if possible?

Greg L.

Here are the photos I don't think the door or lever is stuck I think it is not designed to move until you slide the thumb lever out off the way ( or I don't think this is the pressure relief he was asking about) I have used the door to dump ashes out off the split tube cast iron bottom box these next pictures are off the ash box and draft settings

OK, now I understand your description of the clean out door. Certainly not an easy door to explain in words.

Greg L.

Interesting that your's doesn't have the check damper in there? Here's a pix of mine so you can see what I'm talking about. They open and close with a thumb pull in back where the back pipe elbow connects to the stove body.

I don't think the Plymouth has an internal check damper. Many stoves had them on the cast elbow on the back of the stove. Many times this piece has long since gone missing. I am lucky to have the original cast exhaust elbow for my Number 6 Base Heater. It has the external check damper there. I use it rarely as my basement flue isn't the best in the world. External check dampers have to be carefully monitored. I know when to use mine and I don't ever leave it open after bed time.

steve what stove is that you took a pic off?

kstone wrote:steve what stove is that you took a pic off?

Kstone, that pix is of my Star Herald 112. Its a similar stove to yours. A 10" firepot Cylinder stove with indirect back pipe.

very nice looking
so your internal baro how do you set it or how does it function. Does it have spring tension instead off gravity and weights like in the R/C style? im hoping to get my barrel set with mano then adjust my MPD to the desire draft over the fire setting ( I might need a finer gauge than the current one 0 to an inch is little heavy maybe 0 to a 1/4 love to buy a 0 to 1/10 inch) might be going about it the wrong way but its still fun and cant hurt just to try lol

It would be interesting to have a Magnahelic draft gauge reading the draft in the cylinder, above the fire, [before the MPD], and one after the MPD, before the baro.
I would like to see the effect of the MPD on the cylinder's draft.. and compare that to the under fire combustion air opening, and cylinder temperatures..

Like I've said before, you can't have too much instrumentation.. ..

Greg L.

kstone wrote:very nice looking
so your internal baro how do you set it or how does it function. Does it have spring tension instead off gravity and weights like in the R/C style? im hoping to get my barrel set with mano then adjust my MPD to the desire draft over the fire setting ( I might need a finer gauge than the current one 0 to an inch is little heavy maybe 0 to a 1/4 love to buy a 0 to 1/10 inch) might be going about it the wrong way but its still fun and cant hurt just to try lol

Key, It works with a little thumb pull in back where the lower elbow meets the stove body (the one the back pipe sits on). Since it is horizontal, you just pull it out or push it in and it stays where you put it. They call it a check valve and I use it on windy/blustery nights mostly. Between it and the secondary air vents on the loading door (above the fire), they can knock the stove back a couple hundred or so degrees. It just allows (some of the) primary ash door air to go straight out and bypass the coal bed. Same with the secondary vents in the loading door. They can be open with fresh coal to add combustion air to burn off gasses and if left open they will drop the draft a bit too because the additional air is being pulled over the top and out and lessens the primary pull from below. Hope that makes sense.