Too much Draft?

My other stove, I didn't run a draft gauge or baro. I know my Stack Temps were 250-300 Normally.
(Temps taken INSIDE the pipe with a probe just before the chimney)

NOW, I have been running the LL Hyfire, baro, Coaltrol, Draft Gauge, etc...for 3-4 weeks now, the draft has been .02-.04 normal, but when the stove gets really cranking, it creeps up to .05-.06 and the baro opens about 1/4 - 1/3 open, the internal pipe/stack temps are around 200-225, if I push the baro open a bit farther, the draft settles back down to .03-.04 (approx.) and the stack temps drop 20-30 degrees.....

I am already at the limit of the Baro Weight (.02), I put an extra screw for adjust of the weight on the flapper to open a bit sooner.

When it starts getting much colder and the chimney starts drawing more and stove runs a bit hotter to keep up, should I adjust anything or does everything seem okay.??

You've thrown some things out here, which I am not familiar with. .. But, if it's a hand fired stove, at this point, I feel a "manual pipe draft" is crucial to the proper operation of a hand fired stove. A manual pipe draft, which was all they used prior to "baros", allows you to "fine tune" the burn, prevent unnecessary heat from going up the flue, etc..

I have the same problem with my stoker stove. I have not run anywhere near max and the outside temps have been only down to 25 degrees. I have my baro set as light as it will go and at idle my manometer is reading .035 and my baro is just open. At anything above idle my baro is open almost full to maintain a .04 draft. I was wondering what it will do when it gets really cold out.

It may not be big enough to control the draft when it gets colder. Check the draft when it gets real cold and if is running away you can install a bigger damper.

A bigger baro damper would that mean you have to change your pipe size as well ?

LL Hyfire Stoker stove.

My pipe size is 6". The Chimney is Brick, internal to the house and probably 35-40' high.

Could I put another baro damper on the clean out or on in another opening to add less draft from the stove? I may have to add a bit more weight to keep it open a bit more. I think with it wide open, I am at around .02-.03. have to wait until it gets a bit colder....

I may just have to live with it and adjust accordlingly.

mina678 wrote:A bigger baro damper would that mean you have to change your pipe size as well ?

No,the pipe can remain the same, a bell adapter could mount a larger baro in it.

do you have a picture ?

Like this, adapt up to an 8" pipe and baro to allow more draft from room and reduce draft on stove...?

That will work too.
Here is some sizing info, I am looking for an image of a bell adapter for you.

http://www.fieldcontrols.com/draftcontrol.php#diinstall

Here you go.
http://www.buyhardwaresupplies.com/?t=5 ... mber=42553

The thing that I don't like about that concept, is that any air going through the baro, has to come from inside the heated area. I would try to reduce some of the flow in the chimney, so that so much air wasn't needed from the heated area to maintain the optimum draft over the fire.

Plus, introduction of air through the baro, will reduce the chimney temperature.

Dallas wrote:The thing that I don't like about that concept, is that any air going through the baro, has to come from inside the heated area. I would try to reduce some of the flow in the chimney, so that so much air wasn't needed from the heated area to maintain the optimum draft over the fire.

Plus, introduction of air through the baro, will reduce the chimney temperature.

The 80* air in your room is a relativly inexpensive sacrifice when compared to the BTUs you will use to keep your chimney warm. If the baro is working you have enough draft for a chimney made of ice. Anyway, the baro keeps more heat in then it will ever bleed. Your firebox will lose a lot of BTUs with an overdraft. You paid for it, keep it in the firebox, not the chimney.

I still have some play in the Baro, so I might be okay, supposed to get cold on Friday, I will see how it handles....

I think I will be okay, but may not be able to get down to exactly .02-.04 range, it may bobble at .05 or so, But I think If I can keep it relatively close to that or below, should be good to go.

Just wanted to get everyone's input and help other out that may have the same problem(s).

Hi Everyone,

I oftensee post where you all discuss baro's and low\high flue temps etc... I have a 6" baro and stove is in basement about 8' of 6" stove pipe to flue in an incline angle. I have yet to see the baro open at all and flue pipe is usually hot but can touch for a bit before you need to remove hand. The stove is about 400 degrees.

Any thoughts?

The baro might not be installed correctly ... set for vertical, but installed horizontally or vice versa. Or the adjustments aren't set correctly. Most movement should be seen during strong burn or windy days. .. or nights.