LsFarm wrote:I have only one meter,
The majority of people who pay attention, have noted higher bills with no changes in use..
It's a rip off.
I'm thinking on turning off the main breaker, and run the genset 50% of the time and see if the KW use drops accordingly.. I'll bet it doesn't.
I suspect the "smart meters" measure true power, that is both the resistive and reactive power. Your old spinning wheel power meter can only measure resistive (power factor = 1). If you have any power factor lower than unity and you measure consumed power the way an electrical engineer would greater than that measured by a "old" power meter.
So you may have a significantly less then unity power factor (high inductive loads, motors, welders, improperly used transformers, etc.) You didn't pay for this reactive load because your power company couldn't measure it, at least not for a residential customer. It did and does cost the power company money to produce this reactive power. Now, because of an improved measurement meter you are likely being charged for it. OR perhaps the old meter was just inaccurate (unlikely) and recording low. OR the new meter is also inaccurate (very unlikely) and recording high.
It will take considerable effort to get a technical and regulatory understanding of the situation.
1. Since power companies are regulated utilities, your state will have some published residential rate schedule. Get that schedule from the commission or agency that regulates them. Get the technical specs as to what power they are measuring and allowed to charge for. In my state the residential rate schedule only allows resistive power measurement. It may have changed with the introduction of "smart meters".
2. Research you specific brand and model of smart meter. Get this info from the meter manufacturer. It will not be the power company. Determine the options for configuring the "smart" meter. I suspect most are general purpose designs and have lots of configurable options. You need to know how your electric company uses it.
3. Measure your power load and power factor.
4. Ask the power company for your usage record both pre and post "smart meter". You may have to your regulated utility agency involved to get this.
5. Challenge the power company on the accuracy of the "smart meter". Insist on the "manufacture's" calibration acceptance data. You will need to get to know the utility company's engineering department for this information.
6. If you have low power factor most of the time, install commercial grade load compensation capacitors.
OR just take the easy way out and just pay the bill.
IF you have low power factor and run your generator you will also be generating the reactive power you can't use (i.e. no useful physics work).