Keystoker 90 Frozen Handle

Hi Guy's,

For the third year in a row, the top door handle has frozen in place again. I needed to use a hammer just to get it to the open position. I've replaced it once two years ago and the new handle is now seizing. I removed the door and have sprayed WD-40 to try to loosen it but no success so far. Has anyone else had this problem. The stove is about 15 years old and we keep it clean and lubed over the summer.

This seems to be one of the advantages of the Harman handle design.

Any suggestions are appreciated

Graphite based anti-seize product or similar product that can withstand the temperature.

Graphite based anti-seize

Snuffy. The fact that it was necessary to use a hammer to make the handle move says that there is no clearance somewhere in that latch system.If it were my stove, I would take that latch assembly apart and examine the fit and tolerances. Perhaps there is some rust or some corrosion on the contact surfaces where the latch barrel passes thru the door.You may not be able to see it from the outside and spray fixes may not be able to get to it. Is it perhaps a tapered fit ? Tapered fits are known for such antics. There is always a reason ,especially since you can expect metals to expand and contract as they heat and cool. I would classify any door component on a coal stove as a hostile enviornment as far as metal is concerned.An expert opinion is as close as the Keystoker telephone number. Just my $0.02. Good Luck. Mike

Mine tends to get real stiff during the summer if I forget to keep working it a bit. I finally cleaned up in the garage enough that I saw my can of high temp never seize so if I can remember where I saw it & then remember why I wanted it I'll take mine apart clean it up & lube it to see if that helps. If I remember.

It is merely a threaded rod with a block of steel on the end, and a handle on the other. With that being said anti-seize copper or silver applied annually is all that should be needed. Oil tends to flash off over time. I anti-seize mine and run the handle in and out to distribute the compound over the business end of the active threads, be sure the threads show the color of the anti-seize applied so you know it is applied without making a mess from too much.

Ditto to what sierra said. The HINT is: Don't wait until it freezes up. Take it apart, lube it and reassemble.....on a regular basis.

Thanks for the suggestion guy's. Removed the door panel last night, layed it flat and sprayed WD-40 around the handle area overnight. I was able to break the freeze this morning by adding some 3 in 1 oil. For the last few years I took charge of cleaning the stove for my Dad since he had treatments for cancer which eventually took him. He forgot to mention about oiling the handle and more embarrasingly I never thought to oil or clean that very essential part. Now that I am thoroughly familar with how it works I can now direct my wife how to clean that as well!!

Good thing she dosen't read this forum

I was having the same problem at one time also. I was spraying it 2X's during the summer with WD40 and that didn't work to well. After that I tried PB Blaster and that helped slightly more. The next summer I ran a tap back through the door and replaced the threaded rod and nuts with stainless. I spray it once with PB Blaster after my spring cleanout and haven't had nearly the problem I had before.

Any type of penetrant/oil lubricant will eventually boil/evaporate away while the stove is hot.. You must use an anti-sieze, grease, or graphite type of
lubricant if you want to keep any handle or hinge moving freely in the hot and corrosive environment that is inside our stoves and boilers.

WD 40 is basicly perfumed kerosene, PB Blaster is a bit better, but still just a penetrating lubricant. use a paste type 'never-sieze' product, it will hold up best.

Greg L