AHS S130 Coal Gun Cleaning, Any Advice on Specific Brushes
- lsayre
- Member
- Posts: 21781
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
- Location: Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
... or any other essential equipment I should have on hand before I tackle this task? All advice and equipment recommendations are welcome.
- LsFarm
- Member
- Posts: 7383
- Joined: Sun. Nov. 20, 2005 8:02 pm
- Location: Michigan
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman Anderson 260
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Self-built 'Big Bertha' SS Boiler
- Baseburners & Antiques: Keystone 11, Art Garland
There is really nothing to do, but remove all ashes. Then if you are serious about rust prevention, remove the fan plate, and clean out the heat exchanger area.
I'd call AHS for advice on this.. I wonder if they recommend yearly removal and reinstall of the fan plate..
the AHS uses a ceramic gasket/heat shield if I remember correctly,, you want to be prepared to replace this if it is damaged when you remove the fan plate..
Other than a spare ceramic heat shield/gasket. Just regular wire brushes, a vacuum with a thin extension hose..
I'd also remove the flue and vacuum the ash funnel 'cyclone' tube,
What are you going to use as a rust preventative over the summer?? Some spray product ???
Greg L
I'd call AHS for advice on this.. I wonder if they recommend yearly removal and reinstall of the fan plate..
the AHS uses a ceramic gasket/heat shield if I remember correctly,, you want to be prepared to replace this if it is damaged when you remove the fan plate..
Other than a spare ceramic heat shield/gasket. Just regular wire brushes, a vacuum with a thin extension hose..
I'd also remove the flue and vacuum the ash funnel 'cyclone' tube,
What are you going to use as a rust preventative over the summer?? Some spray product ???
Greg L
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 17980
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
I can't recommend a specific brush, but I do recommend removing the fan and thoroughly cleaning the heat exchanger. It is always easiest to remove the ash deposits immediately after shutdown.
Here is an older thread with some relevant information: Efficiency Loss
Here is an older thread with some relevant information: Efficiency Loss
- steamup
- Member
- Posts: 1209
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 03, 2008 12:13 pm
- Location: Napoli, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Axeman-Anderson AA-130, Keystoker K-6
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: HS Tarm 502 Wood/Coal/Oil
- Coal Size/Type: pea, buck, rice
I am not familiar with the coalgun but I am familiar with the AHS wood gun. If it is a direct drive, plan on replacing the motor bearings about every three years (+/- depending on use). They will let you know when they are toast. (noise) The heat transmitted up the motor shaft is rough on the bearings. Be very careful with the heat sheild as it is fairly soft material. It is not cheap when you factor in shipping and handling. Belt drive model motors will last a lot longer. The heat sheild need not be replaced every time, but only when worn thin or damaged. Best keep one on hand if you don't have backup heat available.LsFarm wrote:There is really nothing to do, but remove all ashes. Then if you are serious about rust prevention, remove the fan plate, and clean out the heat exchanger area.
I'd call AHS for advice on this.. I wonder if they recommend yearly removal and reinstall of the fan plate..
the AHS uses a ceramic gasket/heat shield if I remember correctly,, you want to be prepared to replace this if it is damaged when you remove the fan plate..
Other than a spare ceramic heat shield/gasket. Just regular wire brushes, a vacuum with a thin extension hose..
I'd also remove the flue and vacuum the ash funnel 'cyclone' tube,
What are you going to use as a rust preventative over the summer?? Some spray product ???
Greg L
- BENAHSMAN
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- Posts: 27
- Joined: Fri. Oct. 15, 2010 3:04 pm
- Location: Chambersburg, Pa 17201
- Contact:
Coal Gun end of season Inspection
Swirl Chamber
Remove the fan assembly and clean the Swirl Chamber and inspect the flue tube assembly for obstruction.
Fan
Inspect the fan for signs of wear.
Inspect the fan motor bearings and replace if you experience excess noise.
Check the fan belt for wear and adjust tension to have 1” of play in the belt.
Inspect the insulation heat shield at the fan plate for erosion.
Inspect the fan assembly gasket and replace if cracked.
Coal Gun end of season Inspection
Flue Tube Assembly
Remove the flue pipe and the flue pipe assembly from the AHS appliance and clean the entire assembly.
Inspect the funnel at the bottom of the cylinder were the flue tube assembly is connected.
Flue Pipe
Inspect the Flue pipe for wear.
Inspect and clean all horizontal runs reassemble and seal with 600 degree silicone.
Coal Gun end of season Inspection
Grate
Remove the ash from the grate and clean all scale and build-up.
Rust Prevention
Clean the interior of the coal gun.
Keep the coal gun dry during the off season by using a dehumidifier in the boiler room.
Swirl Chamber
Remove the fan assembly and clean the Swirl Chamber and inspect the flue tube assembly for obstruction.
Fan
Inspect the fan for signs of wear.
Inspect the fan motor bearings and replace if you experience excess noise.
Check the fan belt for wear and adjust tension to have 1” of play in the belt.
Inspect the insulation heat shield at the fan plate for erosion.
Inspect the fan assembly gasket and replace if cracked.
Coal Gun end of season Inspection
Flue Tube Assembly
Remove the flue pipe and the flue pipe assembly from the AHS appliance and clean the entire assembly.
Inspect the funnel at the bottom of the cylinder were the flue tube assembly is connected.
Flue Pipe
Inspect the Flue pipe for wear.
Inspect and clean all horizontal runs reassemble and seal with 600 degree silicone.
Coal Gun end of season Inspection
Grate
Remove the ash from the grate and clean all scale and build-up.
Rust Prevention
Clean the interior of the coal gun.
Keep the coal gun dry during the off season by using a dehumidifier in the boiler room.
- lsayre
- Member
- Posts: 21781
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
- Location: Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh Anthracite Pea
- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
Thanks Greg, Rob, Steamup, and Ben,
After it's clean, is there any recommended protective coating (an oil perhaps, either as a brush on liquid or a spray) that shoud be applied to the interior surfaces?
Larry
After it's clean, is there any recommended protective coating (an oil perhaps, either as a brush on liquid or a spray) that shoud be applied to the interior surfaces?
Larry
-
- Member
- Posts: 54
- Joined: Thu. Oct. 30, 2008 12:31 pm
- Location: South Central PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS-S130
- Coal Size/Type: Pea/Anthracite
- Other Heating: Oil for standby
I haven't put any coating in mine, but last year I did put a small light (25w, I believe) inside the unit to keep the dampness out. I think that if the unit is kept dry (on the fire side surfaces), you won't have any issues.
My unit did have some weld spatter inside the swirl chamber, which made brushing a little harder, so I scraped some of that out with a piece of brass. Other than that, any good brush that fits should do the job.
My unit did have some weld spatter inside the swirl chamber, which made brushing a little harder, so I scraped some of that out with a piece of brass. Other than that, any good brush that fits should do the job.
- Yanche
- Member
- Posts: 3026
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 23, 2005 12:45 pm
- Location: Sykesville, Maryland
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Alternate Heating Systems S-130
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Pea
A few years ago I had my boiler back to AHS for some modifications. At that time Jeff suggested before re-installing it I take it to a self serve car wash and use the spray wand to clean it. I did so and the inside cleaned up better that I could do by brushing alone
Ever since then I wished I could do the same. Obviously that's not going to happen. BUT what if ...
You could some how run a cleaning liquid through the boiler, sucked in by a running combustion fan, blown around internally by the turbulence and out the fly ash cone. Perhaps catch what comes out the cone, filter it and blow it back into the boiler tubes via the inspection port. Thoughts? Suggestions?
Ever since then I wished I could do the same. Obviously that's not going to happen. BUT what if ...
You could some how run a cleaning liquid through the boiler, sucked in by a running combustion fan, blown around internally by the turbulence and out the fly ash cone. Perhaps catch what comes out the cone, filter it and blow it back into the boiler tubes via the inspection port. Thoughts? Suggestions?