AHS S130 Coal Gun cleaning, any advice on specific brushes

... or any other essential equipment I should have on hand before I tackle this task? All advice and equipment recommendations are welcome.

There is really nothing to do, but remove all ashes. Then if you are serious about rust prevention, remove the fan plate, and clean out the heat exchanger area.
I'd call AHS for advice on this.. I wonder if they recommend yearly removal and reinstall of the fan plate..

the AHS uses a ceramic gasket/heat shield if I remember correctly,, you want to be prepared to replace this if it is damaged when you remove the fan plate..

Other than a spare ceramic heat shield/gasket. Just regular wire brushes, a vacuum with a thin extension hose..

I'd also remove the flue and vacuum the ash funnel 'cyclone' tube,

What are you going to use as a rust preventative over the summer?? Some spray product ???

Greg L

I can't recommend a specific brush, but I do recommend removing the fan and thoroughly cleaning the heat exchanger. It is always easiest to remove the ash deposits immediately after shutdown.

Here is an older thread with some relevant information: efficiency loss

LsFarm wrote:There is really nothing to do, but remove all ashes. Then if you are serious about rust prevention, remove the fan plate, and clean out the heat exchanger area.
I'd call AHS for advice on this.. I wonder if they recommend yearly removal and reinstall of the fan plate..

the AHS uses a ceramic gasket/heat shield if I remember correctly,, you want to be prepared to replace this if it is damaged when you remove the fan plate..

Other than a spare ceramic heat shield/gasket. Just regular wire brushes, a vacuum with a thin extension hose..

I'd also remove the flue and vacuum the ash funnel 'cyclone' tube,

What are you going to use as a rust preventative over the summer?? Some spray product ???

Greg L

I am not familiar with the coalgun but I am familiar with the AHS wood gun. If it is a direct drive, plan on replacing the motor bearings about every three years (+/- depending on use). They will let you know when they are toast. (noise) The heat transmitted up the motor shaft is rough on the bearings. Be very careful with the heat sheild as it is fairly soft material. It is not cheap when you factor in shipping and handling. Belt drive model motors will last a lot longer. The heat sheild need not be replaced every time, but only when worn thin or damaged. Best keep one on hand if you don't have backup heat available.

Coal Gun end of season Inspection

Swirl Chamber

 Remove the fan assembly and clean the Swirl Chamber and inspect the flue tube assembly for obstruction.

Fan

 Inspect the fan for signs of wear.
 Inspect the fan motor bearings and replace if you experience excess noise.
 Check the fan belt for wear and adjust tension to have 1” of play in the belt.
 Inspect the insulation heat shield at the fan plate for erosion.
 Inspect the fan assembly gasket and replace if cracked.






Coal Gun end of season Inspection

Flue Tube Assembly

 Remove the flue pipe and the flue pipe assembly from the AHS appliance and clean the entire assembly.
 Inspect the funnel at the bottom of the cylinder were the flue tube assembly is connected.




Flue Pipe

 Inspect the Flue pipe for wear.
 Inspect and clean all horizontal runs reassemble and seal with 600 degree silicone.





Coal Gun end of season Inspection

Grate

 Remove the ash from the grate and clean all scale and build-up.



Rust Prevention

 Clean the interior of the coal gun.
 Keep the coal gun dry during the off season by using a dehumidifier in the boiler room.

Thanks Greg, Rob, Steamup, and Ben,

After it's clean, is there any recommended protective coating (an oil perhaps, either as a brush on liquid or a spray) that shoud be applied to the interior surfaces?

Larry

I haven't put any coating in mine, but last year I did put a small light (25w, I believe) inside the unit to keep the dampness out. I think that if the unit is kept dry (on the fire side surfaces), you won't have any issues.

My unit did have some weld spatter inside the swirl chamber, which made brushing a little harder, so I scraped some of that out with a piece of brass. Other than that, any good brush that fits should do the job.

A few years ago I had my boiler back to AHS for some modifications. At that time Jeff suggested before re-installing it I take it to a self serve car wash and use the spray wand to clean it. I did so and the inside cleaned up better that I could do by brushing alone

Ever since then I wished I could do the same. Obviously that's not going to happen. BUT what if ...

You could some how run a cleaning liquid through the boiler, sucked in by a running combustion fan, blown around internally by the turbulence and out the fly ash cone. Perhaps catch what comes out the cone, filter it and blow it back into the boiler tubes via the inspection port. Thoughts? Suggestions?