What type of stoker is this?

Hi, Could someone that knows let me know the Brand and model of this stoker?




Thanks!

It's an old EFM conversion stoker. It looks like one that's been on Craigslist in NY. I believe it's rated for about 20 lb/hr of buck.

Mike

how about some more info.

are they readly avalible
are there parts avalible to rebuild
what size BTU ratings avalible
how does the coal feed-right side/left side/front/back/under
whats the size of the fire pot ring/diameter in inches
whats the length of the stoker/part that sticks into the firebox
is there any brochures or info. avalible


maybe a project to turn my boiler into a stoker

Dennis, you might be able to do that without that complex of a stoker. Waaay back, Gentleman Janitor and EFM did a great number of conversion stokers...many other companies also.
A Hand fed was VERY GOOD, but a stoker added made it a GREAT boiler or furnace. What size is your rig now? 150-200K?
This unit sure looks like an EFM, but there were other bottom fed stokers also.

AHS WOC-55
225k BTU

Yes, it actually is the one on craigslist, I was looking for some info on it, as i was thinking of possibly purchasing it as a backup stoker for our orphanage in Mongolia as it appears small and may be able to ship easier than the Wilburt 65 stoker and boiler we had shipped over there last year. We have had some breakdowns this year and i really need to get a backup in place cause we have -40 temp there sometimes !

I think this would be underpowered if you'd be using it as back-up to a Will-burt S65 - I'm pretty sure the nameplate on this says 20 lb/hr vs. 65 lb/hour. You probably also should check the size of the feed tube to see whether it's compatible with the size of coal the Will-burt uses. EFM made a 60 lb/hr conversion stoker and Motor Stokor made one that could do 40 lb/hr (I have one in nice shape that I was planning to use as a backup, but I might be talked out of it... ).

Mike

Pacowy wrote:I think this would be underpowered if you'd be using it as back-up to a Will-burt S65 - I'm pretty sure the nameplate on this says 20 lb/hr vs. 65 lb/hour. You probably also should check the size of the feed tube to see whether it's compatible with the size of coal the Will-burt uses. EFM made a 60 lb/hr conversion stoker and Motor Stokor made one that could do 40 lb/hr (I have one in nice shape that I was planning to use as a backup, but I might be talked out of it... ).

Mike

Yes, i know it would be lower powered, but I run the Wilburt on the lowest to medium feed setting, which i believe is 20lb and 40lb(not positive). I just need a basic stoker, as i can do some fabrication, in fact I plan to build my own backup boiler. My main consideration is weight, I was hoping to get something that I could take apart and send over in pieces or carry over when i leave the end of this month.

Any ideas or help I can get from here would be appreciated!

The worm shaft got torn up in the Wilburt, i guess they ran it out of oil. I ordered a new shaft I should have been there during the winter, but i had some things i needed to get done here in the States, but i sure hope to be there during the next winter.

Justin

Justin -

Please check your private messages (envelope icon at top of page).

Thanks.

Mike

you need to keep fines away from the output shaft on the will-burt transmissions. also I highly recommend adding an mos2 additive so that if the oil gets low or the gears get dry, it will take a much longer time for them to destroy themselves. Add this to every will-burt transmission: http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/prod ... nt&land=US

Berlin wrote:you need to keep fines away from the output shaft on the will-burt transmissions. also I highly recommend adding an mos2 additive so that if the oil gets low or the gears get dry, it will take a much longer time for them to destroy themselves. Add this to every will-burt transmission: http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/prod ... nt&land=US

Yes, it would be good to add an additive like that, does it need to be purchased on the internet? I would have made sure of those things had I been there, but they ran into some other problems and had to connect a different motor that was a higher rpm and i thing that may have helped cause to destroy the worm shaft. I really hope the worm gear is not ruined, but i wont know till I get there and see it in person.

Both the worm and the worm gear spur are shot, the transmission needs to be soaked in kerosene and completely rebuilt or you're looking at a repeat of problems. the good news is these transmissions take only a few minutes to carefully disassemble and re-assemble (possibly a few hours if you haven't done it before). I've rebuilt quite a few and never seen one that bad. it looks like someone filled it with rusty water instead of oil. make sure when you load the hopper that the coal isn't too wet, and better yet, keep your coal supply oiled with old lightweight hydraulic oil/motor oil; if the coal is soaking wet or covered in snow the water can migrate back to a bad output shaft (auger) seal and leak into the transmission case. These stokers are really simple, it's a shame that people would run them without bothering to do simple maintenance like checking the oil in the transmission; a child could have kept this thing in better shape.

I highly recommend that particular MoS2 additive and would even use two when you rebuild and re-fill that transmission case. You shouldn't need another stoker, these stokers will run years without mechanical trouble if periodically looked over. That additive can be purchased through dozens of different retailers online and sometimes auto parts stores will carry it.

Berlin wrote:Both the worm and the worm gear spur are shot, the transmission needs to be soaked in kerosene and completely rebuilt or you're looking at a repeat of problems. the good news is these transmissions take only a few minutes to carefully disassemble and re-assemble (possibly a few hours if you haven't done it before). I've rebuilt quite a few and never seen one that bad. it looks like someone filled it with rusty water instead of oil. make sure when you load the hopper that the coal isn't too wet, and better yet, keep your coal supply oiled with old lightweight hydraulic oil/motor oil; if the coal is soaking wet or covered in snow the water can migrate back to a bad output shaft (auger) seal and leak into the transmission case. These stokers are really simple, it's a shame that people would run them without bothering to do simple maintenance like checking the oil in the transmission; a child could have kept this thing in better shape.

Yes, I was planning to soak it in diesel and take it apart, Yes from the pic it did look like there is water in it. I really cant believe it went bad that quick, they told me it had oil in it a month before, but i really don't know what to think cause they also claimed there was no sign of leakage! Any idea where i could find a cheaper used worm gear? Wilburt want an extraordinary amount for a new one.

Justin

unless you've got good spares lying around, will-burt will be the place to go. that doesn't look like one month's damage.

As i've mentioned the output shaft seal on the transmission tends to get "taken out" by coal fines migrating back from the feed screw, this becomes worse when fed wet coal. As this seal goes, it leaks oil into the auger of the stoker thus you don't know it's leaking; when this happens coupled with excessively wet coal, the water migrates back to the seal, it then seeps into the transmission and floats the oil, finally the remaining oil migrates out the bad seal into the feed screw and disappears into the fire. Then you are left with a water and rust filled transmission (sometimes with coal fines too) and worn out gears. Although i've seen this process before, it usually takes years to remove enough residual oil film to create that kind of wear. Even if you have a bad output shaft seal on one of these transmissions, checking and filling twice a month and periodically adding some MoS2 additive keeps these gears in good shape for many seasons.

When you get back to mongolia you need to kick a few butts

That is what happens when doing remote service work...
Get all the parts you need state side including that special lube...
Rebuild it and show everybody how to maintain that heat monster...

our orphanage in Mongolia

If a child could maintain it maybe it might not have gone bad...