New Hitzer EZ-Flow 50-93

Hello again forum members. It has been a bit since my last posts but I have been hanging around researching the new forum.

I am pleased to announce a new addition to my coal burning arsenal, a new Hitzer EZ-Flow 50-93.

As you can see, I have yet to fire it up. I have read the many fine reviews of said heater and I like the look of it in my home.
As I said, the stove seems to have many admirers but there are some questions that pop up to me already. The handle to shake the grates just appears to slip on over the exterior square fitting to the stove grates. It is a loose and sloppy fit. There is seemingly no provisions for it to be bolted or otherwise securely fitted to the stove. Here are the photos:
Also, the rear exit flue has only one pre-drilled hole to secure the stove pipe to the stove. It is at the top most position (Twelve O'clock) and no other holes around the fitting. I would like to secure the stove pipe with at least three screws for safety.
Finally, and this may be nit-picking, the built in fan has no shield to guard against young fingers that may probe the opening. I have no children but none-the-less, a wire screen would be nice to prevent not only a possible injury but trap some lint etc. before it enters the fan assembly.

Well, as for drilling the aforementioned fittings it seems like some hard drilling to make adaptations. I have thought of 'JB Weld" for the handle but would like it to be removable if possible.

I would like input from other members with Hitzers pertaining to these issues I have described.

On a positive note, this forum is one of the best resources I have come across pertaining to our beloved method of heating our homes. In particular, Greg 'LS Farm' has been instrumental in assisting me in the past, along with many other forum members. I had a question regarding a cold air return and did not have to post a question at all, just researched and found a great thread. It helped me to add some floor registers and a cold air return at the furthest area of my two story 156 year old Victorian. My plan is to have the Hitzer on the first floor and my Harman Mark I in the basement. I also have a French Godin that I'm placing in a entry foyer/mudroom that gets too chilly. That should make it nice and toasty come cold weather.

(See next post for other pics.)

Thanks again, Townsend

Guard less fan opening:
Godin stove:

Hi Townsend, glad you are still around !! Your dog can still steal a photo op !! I like the idea of the bigger stove, you should be able to just about retire the steam boiler with both stoves in operation.

I think Home depot sells a collar that you could attach to to the inlet of the fan housing, allowing you to attach a hose for a cold air return. Or you can just get a piece of 1/4" screen and make a cover to catch whatever may try to get into the fan. In my house it would be dog fur for sure.

Let us know how you like the Hitzer once it is up and burning.

BTW: you could drill and tap the end of the square stub for a 1/4-20 or 5/16-16 NC bolt, and bolt the handle on. I'd call Hitzer about it to see if they like the idea or not.

Greg L

Happy Thanksgiving.

Congrats on you 50-93

This is our first year with our 50-93 (non fan radiant model)

Yes the shaker handle fits loose. Obviously to take off when done shaking grates. We keep ours on. As far as the one single hole at 12 oclock, this is not an issue. Once the pipe and stove is in place, it wont go anywhere!! Do use the one screw and fasten the remaining pipes together with three screws. I sealed each section with black stove pipe cement. Rock solid..

Being the first year with the 50-93 we have been using it for 1 month and really enjoy it. Bit surprised by how easy its been cleaning, and taking care of it.

Keep us updated.

Interesting post, I have the 354 Hitzer, and it is pretty much the same, handle loose, exposed blower opening. I would consider the blower opening a potential problem, the handle does not bother me personally. The 354 has top exhaust, and only way pipe could come apart is by moving stove out from wall, very tight fit. We looked at the 50-93 but wanted to have the option of using wood if necesary. Biggest negative about the Hitzer, too doggone easy to take care of! Goes 24 hours plus without touching it, don't even have to adjust thermostat once I figured out where to set it, almost seems to work based on outside temperature.

I'm suprised about that guardless fan, if that was in a workplace they wouldn't be able to have it like that. I see there is two screws on either side, is that holding the exterior guard? Couldn't you just cut out a piece of mesh and use the screws to mount it, I'd be especially concerned about that if I had small kids or even older kids that get some bright idea.

As far as the single hole on the flue probably not much of concern, you should use 3 screws on every joint on the pipes. If everthing else is secure it shouldn't be a problem, you could just drill some holes. I'd probably do that myself.

Rex and New York,

Great to hear you enjoy your Hitzers and I like the sound of the low maintenance aspect. It makes me happy I chose the stove, especially the 24 hour part. Thanks for the input. I was trying to heat a large home with just the Mark I Harman. It heated the first floor well enough but the second was not cutting it. Rex, how does the hopper feed work out? And, on my Harman I really banked the coal high up the back and slopped it to the front. With the new Hitzer's hopper extending well into the feed area it limits that method. I'm hopping that's not a concern and the large firebox combined with the hopper eliminates the need to bank the coal.

Greg and Nepa,

Thanks for the advice. I think I'm going to drill a hole for a bolt on the handle. And for this stove I'm simply going to add a wire screen to the fan as suggested. The Harman down in the basement will have the cold air return.

I'll pick up a collar that reduces from the 4" dryer pipe I'm using for a return. I saw a hard rubber type but fear it may be subject to the heat. There does not seem to be much of a flange on the inlet part of the fan to grasp though. Is there a product you can describe more for when I go to a home center?

Thanks again.

And Happy Thanksgiving to all!!!!

There does not seem to be much of a flange on the inlet part of the fan to grasp though. Is there a product you can describe more for when I go to a home center?

I don't know what size your fan is but my combustion fan is a fasco B30 and I used a 3 inch starter collar (3inch galvanized pipe with the little cut out fingers that you bend to hold it in place) and it fit right into the blower flange that is held on with the 2 screws, just like the one in your picture.

Townsend wrote: I think I'm going to drill a hole for a bolt on the handle.

That may be loose for a reason such as if you leave it on there the heat doesn't transfer easily. That's some pretty heavy gauge steel by the looks of it, I wouldn't be concerned about wear,

Townsend wrote:Rex and New York,

Rex, how does the hopper feed work out? And, on my Harman I really banked the coal high up the back and slopped it to the front. With the new Hitzer's hopper extending well into the feed area it limits that method. I'm hopping that's not a concern and the large firebox combined with the hopper eliminates the need to bank the coal.

Townsend,

The hopper feeder works amazing well. So far we have been running the stove on a fairly low burn. So low in fact that we can just see red coal way down into the coals. Right now I can't even see red coals in my stove. The burn is buried deep down in the pile of coal. Its currently 71 degrees in my living room with the outside temps 25 degrees. (2,900 square feet house)

I clean and shake the unit once every 12 hours (I have gone 15 before). Once I shake the system down, the coal inside the hopper will slide down. I notice about 25% of the hopper goes down during my shake. Obviously during the colder temps the stove will be opened up more and guessing more coal will burn. OH the coal does "bank" quiet nicely. Fills up completely to the front door lip. Notice that the bottom part to your hopper is "just" above the bottom ledge to your door. The coal will fill your area completely to the bottom of your hopper!! The coal will slide down naturally when burning the coal faster. When we first started the stove I ran it hot and noticed the coal naturally coming down the hopper as it burned after a few hours.

Well its been 12 hours now so better get in there for my cleaning and shake. I can just start to see red down into the unburnt coals. Its amazingly simple to work with once you get to understand the stove.

Also I would not worry about the shaker handle and the way it fits. I advise not to screw it on. There is allot of heat at that point of contact and for something to "go wrong" would be detrimental. I wouldn't weakened the contact area with drilling a hole.

Enjoy

Gambler, thanks for specifying the part. I believe I know what you describe. I'll look for one today.

Nepa, My concern was for wear to the fitting and/or handle. But once the handle is placed deep enough onto the fitting and is held that way with hand pressure it is pretty snug, hence allowing efficient use. I just didn't like the idea of it being loose but I suppose I could live with it.

I have some time today to finish connect the exhaust piping. Can someone explain the need for a barometric damper. I had the Harman Mark I in the location I now have the Hitzer and it worked fine without it. My chimney is pretty high, two stories up and well over the roof peak line. So my concern is now that of safety and secondly efficiency.

Thanks, Townsend

Rex, Thanks for the info on the hopper. Sounds Great! I'm really looking forward to getting it going tonight. Thanksgiving Day was warm here in Connecticut but cold weather is now approaching. Forecast calls for teens tonight.

Thanks, Townsend

Hi Townsend, Yes, cold weather is on the way, 3" of snow and 20* last night on the farm. [reported by my caretaker, I'm out flying].

You may not need a Barometric damper. If you were able to control the burn rate in your Mark I using just the air vent in the ashpan door, then you probably will be able to do the same with the HItzer.

The idea behind the Baro is that if say, you set the stove where it has been burning really well for a 25* evening, with light winds, and you go to bed. Then a cold front comes through at midnight, the wind picks way up, the temps drop, then the draft in the chimney will go way up. The amount of air pulled through the air vents will increase and the fire will burn hotter and faster. You may not want the fire to be burning hotter and faster. If you feel this scenario may be a problem for you then a Baro damper will even out the draft to a much more consistant level, allowing a more steady heat output and coal burn rate.

Do not install a manual damper, for all the reasons above, a manual damper is manual. The barometric damper is automatic. You can't be there when the manual damper needs to be reset. If the weather warms way up during the day and you are gone, the wind dies, and the draft decreases, a manual damper needs to be opened to increase draft, you won't be there to make this adjustment, and you could get CO in the house... Don't want your dog breathing CO !! A baro will automaticly adjust to give full available draft if the weather warms or the wind dies. And it will automaticly open to reduce draft so you don't burn too much coal if the draft increases.

You will really like the hopper feed feature in your Hitzer. You can control the coal burn rate by shaking more or less. Each time you shake the grate, the ashes fall, the coal level drops and fresh coal is on the fire. If you delay the shake, the fire will have less fresh coal, and a bit more ash under the fire, lowering the heat output some. Member Davemich used to shake only every 24 hours in warm weather, to reduce coal use, he still had plenty of heat output, but he has a smallish house.

Let us know how it goes, that sure is a nice addition to the house !!

Greg L

LsFarm wrote:Hi Townsend, Yes, cold weather is on the way, 3" of snow and 20* last night on the farm. [reported by my caretaker, I'm out flying].

You may not need a Barometric damper. If you were able to control the burn rate in your Mark I using just the air vent in the ashpan door, then you probably will be able to do the same with the HItzer.

The idea behind the Baro is that if say, you set the stove where it has been burning really well for a 25* evening, with light winds, and you go to bed. Then a cold front comes through at midnight, the wind picks way up, the temps drop, then the draft in the chimney will go way up. The amount of air pulled through the air vents will increase and the fire will burn hotter and faster. You may not want the fire to be burning hotter and faster. If you feel this scenario may be a problem for you then a Baro damper will even out the draft to a much more consistant level, allowing a more steady heat output and coal burn rate.

Do not install a manual damper, for all the reasons above, a manual damper is manual. The barometric damper is automatic. You can't be there when the manual damper needs to be reset. If the weather warms way up during the day and you are gone, the wind dies, and the draft decreases, a manual damper needs to be opened to increase draft, you won't be there to make this adjustment, and you could get CO in the house... Don't want your dog breathing CO !! A baro will automaticly adjust to give full available draft if the weather warms or the wind dies. And it will automaticly open to reduce draft so you don't burn too much coal if the draft increases.

You will really like the hopper feed feature in your Hitzer. You can control the coal burn rate by shaking more or less. Each time you shake the grate, the ashes fall, the coal level drops and fresh coal is on the fire. If you delay the shake, the fire will have less fresh coal, and a bit more ash under the fire, lowering the heat output some. Member Davemich used to shake only every 24 hours in warm weather, to reduce coal use, he still had plenty of heat output, but he has a smallish house.

Let us know how it goes, that sure is a nice addition to the house !!

Greg L

Hi Greg,

We had an automatic air damper installed and glad I did. When the cold front came through this area, so did the winds. I noticed the temps on our stove rising because of the increase "air draft" coming through the stove.

Our air damper was set too tight so I adjusted the weight on the air damper flap. Boy the thing opened right up allowing the excessive air to draw in through the damper rather than my stove. This could get dangerous if your away from your stove.

Once the air damper started to work, my Hitzer settled down to its normal temp settings.

Good safety feature to have installed!!

Well, I fired up the Hitzer. Great Stove! I love it. Here are the first flames.

<removed broken image>

Greg, I put a 'T' fitting in-line for the pipe so I think I'm going to add one. Thanks for the compliments on the stove.

Thanks to Coaledsweat I found a great new coal dealer not far from my house. Decent prices and a heck of a nice guy to deal with.

I love this stuff.

Thanks.