Well Pump Runs...CONSTANTLY...

I'm gonna put the check valve in and see if it improves. I'm not 100% sure that the line drains completely, it might only drain as far as it turns to go out into the well. So, it might only drain about 4' as it runs up the wall before it turns 90° to go to the well.

I can't see past where it goes into the ground. After the check valve if it still cycles then I'll see about renting the T-bar and pulling the pump. I'm not going to hire a contractor; I'm done with them after the septic *censored*. If pulling the pump is something me a few buddies and a case of beer can do then we'll do it. Looking at that diagram that PoconoEagle posted it looks like it's not that difficult to figure out. I'll update after I install the check valve.

Also, the stem on the tank is not bent, it just looks like it from the picture. I had the tire gauge cocked to one side so I could take a pic of the gap, it was only so you could see the space around the stem and gauge.

yes you need a check valve at the top . your pic dosnt show one. it keeps the water and its pressure, up top after pump shut off. it will fix your problem. unless theres a major leak of water somewhere in the house that is bleeding off the newly pumped water?

a resoundful "click" should be heard from the pressure switch when it opens and or closes.. the check valve keeps the water up top and good closed piped and faucets keep the water in the system and ready to use...

drippy faucets use mucho water as does leaky toilets and lazy kids that don't close faucets......

I'm On Fire wrote:If pulling the pump is something me a few buddies and a case of beer can do then we'll do it.

Of course! A 12 pack & one brawny friend & you'll be wet with rust slime and have that bad boy out in 45 minutes. I'd look into building a T-bar. I think you can build one for $25. A six foot 1" threaded pipe, a 1" T, and two 1" by 18" nipples is it. I suppose you might measure to make sure the pitless is less than 6 feet down, some people need an 8 footer.

One thing....when you get it out you're going to wish you had a hose to wash things off. Perhaps a tub filled with water and a scrub brush will do. Often times they are covered with silt, rust, and scum crusties. If ti comes out with a torque arrester make darn sure it goes back in. If it doesn't have one, get one, you got lucky. More horse power pumps have more than one.

First before you try and pull pump determine what kind of pipe it is on and how deep it is. If it is on steel pipe it will be very difficult to pull by hand.

I finished installing my new pump 30 minutes ago. WATER AT FULL PRESSURE AGAIN!! YEYYY!!!



Mine doesn't have the Pitless adaptor, just a cap. I used the tractor to pull it up and over an old 3 foot dia. wire spool. One smooth movement, it was out in 5 minutes.
Get this: the old pump was stll good! There was a break in the wire 5ft above the pump! It had been arcing against the casing!. I went ahead and installed the new pump anyway, and will keep this old pump as a backup. Yes, I replaced the wire. Black Poly riser pipe was still good. I also got spacers every 8 - 10ft, there were none on the old pump. New torque Arrestor installed. Safety line installed, new Cap. Everything Wire-Tied to the pipe. No tape! Pump leads soldered to the new wire, with waterproof shrink connections.




A shower is soooo nice......

Good job!

How long does the pump run to cycle the pressure switch?

Rob R. wrote:Good job!

How long does the pump run to cycle the pressure switch?

Didn't check that yet. It does get up to pressure, and theres no noticeable drop in pressure when the pump has to kick back on. I'll play with it more, after Monday. AT least we have water for the holiday!

009-090, that's awesome you got your pump done and have full pressure.

Like you I also have good news. After years of living with a short cycling pump and reduced water pressure irs now fixed. I am kicking myself for such an easy fix. The check valve was the problem I also figured out why I was getting no reading on my tire gauge. The bladder was empty. I put air in it and set it to 38 paid and put water in the tank. In total, ot took maybe 30 minuyes to put the check valve in put air in the bladder and bleed the air out of the lines. Since doimg that the pump hasn't turned on yet. And it's been a half an hour.

Thanks to everyone for helping me trouble shoot this issue of mine. Obviously I would've never figured that out without everyone here helping me. Thanks again.

good job! both

Outstanding IOF, ya done good I think I'm going to check air pressure in my bladder tomorrow. Put it in new a year ago & never did.

I'm On Fire wrote: The check valve was the problem I also figured out why I was getting no reading on my tire gauge. The bladder was empty. I put air in it and set it to 38 paid and put water in the tank. In total, ot took maybe 30 minuyes to put the check valve in put air in the bladder and bleed the air out of the lines. Since doimg that the pump hasn't turned on yet.

Awesome! Good work! Just in time for Easter!

Well, I fixed the issue with the well but discovered a whole new set of issues. If anyone sees murphy, please put a bullet in his head.

My sump pump drains to an unknown dry well, by unknown I mean I have no idea where it goes or where the dry well is. Since I have been messing with the well I've been draining everything to the sump area. Well, I heard running water, I looked over near the sump pump and noticed the water I pumped out of the basement was pouring back into the basement between the wall and the foundation. I had been wondering why I've been hearing creaking on that side of the house since the wettening of 2011. So, it would seem the dry well is shot and is now screwing with my foundation because I didn't catch it before my well started screwing with me.

I hate this house. Looks like while everyone gets to enjoy Easter I'll be doing more plumbing to redirect the sump pump elsewhere, maybe the yard for now. It's not like I have grass to mow anyway.....or much of a yard to mow since the septic contractor did a fantastic job at leveling my yard with his rock filled dirt.

dang.
at least ya don't have to spend almost 4 bucks a gallon to mow the grass.......rocks can be cool

stick a lagnth of flexable black sump hose on with a clamp and take a day off and enjoy.....

Yeah, that's what I'm going to do. There's an old dryer vent over there. I'm gonna run the house through tgat to the outside. I'm gonna have coffee and breakfast first.

I thought that you had a good idea there Fred, told my wife that maybe I should check the air pressure in my bladder but the wife said my pressure relief valve is working too good. Wonder what she meant by that?
Glad you both got the pumps working, gives me & others a list of things to look for if trouble comes up on ours.