Well Pump Runs...CONSTANTLY....

I'm probably going to check the air pressure in my tank every year. Probably be good PM; who knows how long I've been running it with 0 psi. Probably as long as I've been running without a check valve.

Hey you could mount a gauge and look at it every day...
usually the simple stuff gives us the most problems...
they have a beeper that can be put on the end of a fish...
shove it down the pipe and use a locator up top to trace it...
the septic guys use it to find hidden tanks and fields...
run a pipe outside and down hill from the house...
it is warm now so no freezing problems...
take a break...

CapeCoaler wrote:Hey you could mount a gauge and look at it every day...
usually the simple stuff gives us the most problems...
they have a beeper that can be put on the end of a fish...
shove it down the pipe and use a locator up top to trace it...
the septic guys use it to find hidden tanks and fields...
run a pipe outside and down hill from the house...
it is warm now so no freezing problems...
take a break...

It's not the freezing that's an issue. It's where the water comes back into my house that's concern. It's coming in between the basement wall and foundation. It's eroding the dirt behind the wall and under the foundation.

I like the idea of flushing a fish down the pipe. Any idea where a sensor could be had?

I'm thinking though that between the rain we had in 2011 then adding my washer drain to it it may not have enough time to details out and just be watee logged. Isn't a dry well a barrel with holes in it filles with stone then surrounded by stone? How could it be shot. It probably hasn't had time to completely empty? I'd still like to find it and dig it up and see though.

Okie dokie came home from my wife's aunt's and the misses was drawing a bath for our daughter. So, I seized the opportunity to go down and see how the well operated under use.

The gauge read 45# and the pump turns on at 40#. No bleed, that's what it was when we left, I checked. She used the remaining pressure from the tank, one click on the switch, two clicks then I heard the pump turn on. I noticed a small drip just before the check valve. I grabbed a pipe wrench and channel locks and turned the nipple until the drip stopped. I heard some water, then it started to cough. It was pushing air. It lasted a few seconds then I heard water.

So, obviously the line before the check valve is draining out. How many more check valves should be on the line?or is it only supposed to be one at the tank? Or, is it a seal, foot valve, pump as was mentioned earlier in this thread?

I don't want to replace the pump if I don't have to but I don't mind buying replacement parts. I've gotta help my brother in law with a ceiling fan so I could barter my electrical knowledge and a case of beer for his strength .

Should I just buy all the related parts for the pump and change everything since I'm gonna pull it anyway? What parts do I need cause I have no idea? Where can I buy or rent a T-bar I know making them is easy enough as well. Should I make both a 6’ and an 8' and perhaps a 12’ just in case?

I can tolerate a little air for a while but if it's going to burn the pump out I'd rather fix it. I'll deal with the sump pump issue at a later date.

I'm On Fire wrote:Should I make both a 6’ and an 8' and perhaps a 12’ just in case?

If you're worried 6 feet might be short, make a 6 foot and also buy a 2" nipple (short threaded 1" pipe) and a coupling. If 6 is short, add the nipple.

I can tolerate a little air for a while but if it's going to burn the pump out I'd rather fix it. I'll deal with the sump pump issue at a later date.

It won't hurt the pump at all if the line drains back....the pump is always underwater. It's just that air in the line makes life difficult at the faucet.

Well then, I can live with some air gurgling so I may just say screw it and deal with my sump pumps dry well and deal with the well later. As long as my pump isn't running constantly like it had been for the longest time then I'm happy. Especially if I don't get another crazy electric bill.

I'm On Fire wrote: I heard some water, then it started to cough. It was pushing air. It lasted a few seconds then I heard water. .

It may be holes in the riser pipe (if its iron) that is why the water may be draining back and air entering the pipe. Pull the cap off your well casing and listen while the pump is running. Do you hear water splashing in the well? May be holes...
If its a iron pipe, it could also be holes in the pipe leading from the well to your house.
How old is the pump? If believe you said its never been out?

drywells could be tired or collapsed...
some were just stacked stone with a cap...
just a rubble pile with a pipe...
they all eventually fail...

The drip was also the source for the air to get in....has the "air"come back since you tightened it?
it could have been a self created incident....

i always try to remove the cap and test the power of the biggest mag-lite i have and "give-ah-look" down the pipe while shouting for someone to use water.....

you can hear the pump come on and also see and hear any leaks.....

http://subsurfacesolutions.com/products.asp?cat=26
better to have a friend bring one over to help you out...

Yep - that was the first problem we had here after moving in. Well pump cycled constantly. First thing I did was drain the tank & check the pressure. Had 6 psi .... bumped it to 30, problem solved .... until a year later when the pump took a *censored* from all that cycling. Who knows how long it had been that way before we moved in. Had a leaky shraeder valve. Just grabbed another out of my pile, installed it, & never had another air related issue.

About a year after that pump failure I finally got around to doubling the size of the expansion tank. I also set the cut-in / cut-out pressures in a wider spread: 28- 66 psi. With no water being drawn, the pump runs for about 1 minute 40 seconds. Used to only take 40 seconds before. I went from 3 pump cycles per shower, to just one. That pump is now nearly 8.5 years old now. After the way that crooked well contractor installed the pump, I never expected to get more than 5 years out of it. He saw only my wife, so figured he'd pull a fast one on her by reducing my wide pressure spread to nothing, and releasing 15 psi out of the tank. When I got home from work, the pump would cycle 5 times for a glass of water!! At that rate, the pump would have failed in a month, best case ... and he would have swooped in for the rescue, charging mileage & $300/hour labor.

Guy didn't have the balls to return my phone calls. He knew what he did. Good thing I never saw that guy face to face. I would have fed him my fist!

SMITTY wrote:I also set the cut-in / cut-out pressures in a wider spread: 28- 66 psi. With no water being drawn, the pump runs for about 1 minute 40 seconds. Used to only take 40 seconds before.

It would be interesting to see what the cycle time would be with the pressure switch set at 40/60. If it doesn't change significantly I would just run 40/60 and enjoy more consistent water pressure. To each their own...

Most pressure tank manufactures have tables/formulas to help you size the tank properly. Here is an example: http://www.aquascience.net/tanksizing.cfm

Poconoeagle wrote:The drip was also the source for the air to get in....has the "air"come back since you tightened it?
it could have been a self created incident....

i always try to remove the cap and test the power of the biggest mag-lite i have and "give-ah-look" down the pipe while shouting for someone to use water.....

you can hear the pump come on and also see and hear any leaks.....

I'm not sure. It hasn't run at all since yesterday morning. I checked the pressure before I left for work this morning, it was 45# after I took a shower. Pump never came on. I jiggled the hose leading from the tank back to the well, it felt like there was water in it. I called the wife to have our son go down and see if he could hear air or water in the line. Neither of them had no clue. She then told me that she didn't hear the pump cycle on but then said she didn't know what she was looking/hearing for. So, I'll have to look when I get home. When I was down there this morning there was no wet spot or dripping coming from before the check valve so, I'm going to have to assume for now, at least until I can check tonight that there is just water in the line coming from the well.

As for the dry well, I'll be moving the washer over to the septic this weekend and the sump I'm just going to dig a small trench in the yard and run the hose through it to the road.

Came home from work and checked the lone from the tank back to the well for air. Had my wife run the bathtub until the pump turned on. No air. So, I think I got the well figured out. Now I've gotta start plumbing the washer drain to tge septic, which is good cause where it's going is on the standpipe with the kitchen and bathroom sinks so it's easy enough to pipe in. Then to fix the sump pipe drain up to the street.

Outstanding my friend. Drained bladder today--0 lbs air pressure--didn't they used to precharge them??? Put 26 lbs in as reccomended. Pump used to come on after toilet flush--now, I thought I'd cooked the pump-had kitchen faucets open, flushed toilet--pump finally kicked on--I'm a happy old farmer. Hey IOF--what's a loan?? I can't find mine. couldn't help myself my friend.