A SUNNY SIDE ?

nortcan wrote: ...8<...To be shure I will remove the top cover, the one at the back part of the stove, not a big job to do and will see. Because the direct and base drafts are only 4", I was wondering about these air gaps, maybe a 16" fire pot needs all the draft available, plus the lower doors (many) don't have locking latches, they are just ""drop"" down and not air tight. All that in relation to the base burning mode damper

By-golly, it didn't take that long for nortcan to find a place for gasket material

Guess what Nortcan? Many stoves have that type of latch on the door. Again if the hinge pins are correct the door will fit air tight against the body because the tongue that fits into the little slot will force the door against the body of the stove.
Look at this picture of the Glenwood No. 9 These have the exact same doors and they fit perfectly tight. In fact they pass the dollar bill test with flying colors.

VigIIPeaBurner wrote:

nortcan wrote: ...8<...To be shure I will remove the top cover, the one at the back part of the stove, not a big job to do and will see. Because the direct and base drafts are only 4", I was wondering about these air gaps, maybe a 16" fire pot needs all the draft available, plus the lower doors (many) don't have locking latches, they are just ""drop"" down and not air tight. All that in relation to the base burning mode damper

By-golly, it didn't take that long for nortcan to find a place for gasket material

Vigll PB, : as you can see, seals, rope gaskets are my second sickness Now you know what kind of spagat I eat here

wsherrick wrote:Guess what Nortcan? Many stoves have that type of latch on the door. Again if the hinge pins are correct the door will fit air tight against the body because the tongue that fits into the little slot will force the door against the body of the stove.
Look at this picture of the Glenwood No. 9 These have the exact same doors and they fit perfectly tight. In fact they pass the dollar bill test with flying colors.

I will try to adjust the hinges before making seals on the lower doors the ones at the firepot level, shaker acces doors and ash pit doors. The shaker lever doors, the very small doors don't even have any latch...
By the way, how did you like the No.9?

nortcan wrote:

wsherrick wrote:Guess what Nortcan? Many stoves have that type of latch on the door. Again if the hinge pins are correct the door will fit air tight against the body because the tongue that fits into the little slot will force the door against the body of the stove.
Look at this picture of the Glenwood No. 9 These have the exact same doors and they fit perfectly tight. In fact they pass the dollar bill test with flying colors.

I will try to adjust the hinges before making seals on the lower doors the ones at the firepot level, shaker acces doors and ash pit doors. The shaker lever doors, the very small doors don't even have any latch...
By the way, how did you like the No.9?

After a winter using the No 9. I am convinced it has to be one of the most efficient if not the most efficient design I have ever used. I knew it was going to be efficient, but; I had no idea of how economical this stove is to operate. I have absolute control over the rate of burn and temperature produced. ONE, yes just one standard sized scuttle of coal will last for TWO days and that is keeping the stove at a constant 400 degrees.

wsherrick wrote:After a winter using the No 9. I am convinced it has to be one of the most efficient if not the most efficient design I have ever used. I knew it was going to be efficient, but; I had no idea of how economical this stove is to operate. I have absolute control over the rate of burn and temperature produced. ONE, yes just one standard sized scuttle of coal will last for TWO days and that is keeping the stove at a constant 400 degrees.

To what do you attribute in the design of this stove to account for its apparent superiority in efficiency over the typical oak pattern stove?

If I had to guess it would be the internal fire box which would run hotter with less heat loss coupled with the taller relatively narrower heat exchange surface which would force flues gas into closer contact.

Those old stove companies must have experimentally tried a number of different ideas. Wouldn't it be great to get a hold of some of those old engineering reports? They might well have come up with some great ideas that were not economically feasible using the production methods they had available at that time.

And to make a suite to Franco's last post, it would also be nice to get an other video showing the Glenwood No.9 : stove's description, starting a fire and operation...
But I also kow that it takes some spare time to do a video and Willian has not so much spare time....but we still hope.

A chance we have a national stove pipes maker near cause a 6" to 4" adaptor is not very easy to find. Made in 2 pieces cause I will have to fix the 4" X 3" sleeve first to the stove's connector then place the cast iron top plate then the reducer.
Anyways not in a hurry now, the tiles/floor job is not finished yet.

Hi.
Because the Sunnyside sits directly on the floor (about1/2" air space under the base), I wanted a strong and ventilated base. It also rises the ash pit for the maintenance job.
The job slows down a little cause of a sciatique problem, maybe I get the result from my sickness "joke"
By the way, according to you what is the best method for removing the cement stuck on the plywood without removing the plywood?

Hi Pierre, use either a belt sander with a coarse belt, or I'd use a hand held 4-5" grinder. If the stuff is cement, it will make dust, if it's 'glue', it may get soft and 'gummy' from the heat of the sander or grinder, so take your time and don't get it too warm..

So were you having Breakfast with the SunnySide in the Kitchen ??

Greg L

[quote="LsFarm"]Hi Pierre, use either a belt sander with a coarse belt, or I'd use a hand held 4-5" grinder. If the stuff is cement, it will make dust, if it's 'glue', it may get soft and 'gummy' from the heat of the sander or grinder, so take your time and don't get it too warm..

So were you having Breakfast with the SunnySide in the Kitchen ??

Greg L[/quote

Greg, the stuff on the plywood is cement. I was wondering if the new tool, I don't know the name but it works with very fast vibrations and you can cut very close to the floor....but don't know for the cement job. I tried with the sawsall and a blade but not the best and bang very hard some times...Dust is a problem in that living room............
And for the breakfast I still have a small place in the kitchen, too many stoves on the floor now

Franco, I think it's the isolated firepot that makes the base burners run so well. They really are efficient anthracite burners. Probably even more so then a base heater but not as versatile because they are an anthracite only heater. They do it with fewer moving parts too.

franco b wrote:

wsherrick wrote:After a winter using the No 9. I am convinced it has to be one of the most efficient if not the most efficient design I have ever used. I knew it was going to be efficient, but; I had no idea of how economical this stove is to operate. I have absolute control over the rate of burn and temperature produced. ONE, yes just one standard sized scuttle of coal will last for TWO days and that is keeping the stove at a constant 400 degrees.

To what do you attribute in the design of this stove to account for its apparent superiority in efficiency over the typical oak pattern stove?

If I had to guess it would be the internal fire box which would run hotter with less heat loss coupled with the taller relatively narrower heat exchange surface which would force flues gas into closer contact.

Those old stove companies must have experimentally tried a number of different ideas. Wouldn't it be great to get a hold of some of those old engineering reports? They might well have come up with some great ideas that were not economically feasible using the production methods they had available at that time.

Some photos to show the nickel plating job on some parts, will give some "Sun" to the Sunnyside
Some parts were very deep rusted and the result is very good.

Looking mighty good there nortcan, where ever you got the plating done they did a first rate job.

samhill wrote:Looking mighty good there nortcan, where ever you got the plating done they did a first rate job.

Thanks samhill.
They at Chrome Blacklake made a very good job on the Golden Bride and also on the Sunny. But the job was much more asking on the Sunny cause the stove was stored in a tractor trailer for years, and it's a young 1874 part of the past. But the stove is all complete having all the original stamped parts. I never saw one in the factory new dress, so I decided to have these parts nickel plated. These inserts /heaters are rare but the Sunnyside is probably among the rarest ones.