A SUNNY SIDE ?

SteveZee wrote:Great job Pierre! Just don't use that glue in the 5th picture to put it back together!

buck24 wrote:nortcan...... Looks like you are doing a nice job on the Sunny Side. Just don't forget about Rope Gasket We all know how much you love it. The clock is ticking so lets get on that stove doubletime and get her done before that cold weather rolls around. I can't wait to see her fired up this season.

Thanks buck24. Now things go faster since my back can support my ""130 heavy pounds"", I probably eat too much rope gaskets All should work on the Sunny but the flue size of only 4" makes me wondering why they made the stove with a 4" exit while the other stoves and inserts had 5" at these times. We will see!

LsFarm wrote:Yep, that's a pressure pot blaster, they will do a good job, once set up and adjusted. Your rust-removal job looks very good,

That sure is a complicated stove.. it must have 2x or 3x as many parts as your 'Bride'.

I am really currious how well that 'rocking grate' will work !

Greg L

Yes the sand blasting worked fine when the settings are correct like you said.
Yes, many parts on that stove. The guy/s making the desing were very good workers.
Yes for the grate, I have the same curiousity about it.

samhill wrote:Good looking job Nortcan, even as everyone could give you some tips it's really one of those trail & error type things. A little bit of rust on cast shouldn't be any problem, as soon as some cast parts cool they seem to have a bit of rust & are shipped like that.

Thanks samhill.
Yes and each installation and job to do for sand blasting are different so trail & error is the way to go. But always good to get some tips and save some errors

Edit by Richard:
Correction here on the temperature rating for this product: I made a mistake.



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I looked for a H.T. black silicone sealant having more than 500*F. for a long time but the only one available here is the red one. I don't like to see red silicone around parts and rope gaskets . I ordered black silicone 600*F (tubes of 10.3 oz.) from U.S.A. and just received the order today, it's made by Rutland, and I also ordered black furnace cement also made by Rutland.
I don't know Rutland products but the reputation of that company sees to be O.K. They write on the cement container: "Quality Products Since1883". The stove is from 1874, so it would be correct

Edit by Richard:
Correction here on the temperature rating for this product: I made a mistake.



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We said a few times that it was possible to make seals/gaskets from HT Silicone. I wanted to show how we can make a new gasket (when impossible,sadly to use rope gasket) or to fill up a gap or a crack...Rutland has a 600*F black silicone while Ultra Black is 500* and Rutland comes in a tube like the one used for caulking, much bigger than the small tube from UB. Not to use on the hottest places of the stove.
After placing a silicone "rope" on one side, cover it with a Saranwrap film and wait until the silicone begins to dry then place the other part on the plastic wrap applying a small pressure, just enough to get the perfect seal/form all around the parts. Let the silicone dry then remove the Saranwrap film.

Permatex has an Ultra brand of HT silicone that is good for 700º for brief periods of time. But it's red. I found another one that was 650º but it was gray. I used it yesterday on the top of my chimney.

I'm On Fire wrote:Permatex has an Ultra brand of HT silicone that is good for 700º for brief periods of time. But it's red. I found another one that was 650º but it was gray. I used it yesterday on the top of my chimney.

It all depends on the stove's color

I'm of the, "I don't care what color it is as long as it works and I'm toasty warm" camp. :Lol:

Here is an other very easy to do way to cut a stove pipe. Using a very fine blade and at full speed.

Edit by Richard:
Correction here on the temperature rating for this product: I made a mistake.


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Finally, day one for the Sunny re-assembly.
Just the base done for now but the worst part of the re-assembly. So many parts to put back together to make the base burner path....should make the seals at the base parts and after at the top. But when placing the top on, the parts between the base and top tend to change of place and the aligment is losted...
The operation is so long that I used the Rutland HT Silicone, so if a part moves a little, the joints stay in place (I put more silicone than needed but in that case, more is better than not enough. The temp. at that place is not the higher so the HT Silicone should be OK. Over the base, I began to use the furnace cement.
Nice Sunny day today

You should start your own stove restoration business. Once again a beautiful job.

It really is a great job Pierre! You are taking the time to really do it right. This way you know that it will be the very best it can be.

wsherrick wrote:You should start your own stove restoration business. Once again a beautiful job.

Thanks Will. For the stove restoration business, I seriously will but in a future life

SteveZee wrote:It really is a great job Pierre! You are taking the time to really do it right. This way you know that it will be the very best it can be.

Thanks Steve. In fact you are correct, I take maybe more time than needed but if the Sunny doesn't perform as supposed to, I will know that I did all I can to restore it the best I could. Plus, cause of my back problems I didn't work for 2 months so a lot of things around still to do but when the colds will arrive it will be ,hum, I hope so.