No knitting lady but I think there was a pile of drugs on the table near the stove though!nortcan wrote:Onedollar, just curious but did you saw a knitting ladie near that stove in the movie? The wife didn't tell me anything about beeing part of a movie???
A Sunny Side ?
- ONEDOLLAR
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Drugs, no not my wife, well I hope so!ONEDOLLAR wrote:No knitting lady but I think there was a pile of drugs on the table near the stove though!nortcan wrote:Onedollar, just curious but did you saw a knitting ladie near that stove in the movie? The wife didn't tell me anything about beeing part of a movie???
The shut-down time is near for the Sunny. So here is what the fire looks like after a 24 hrs no touch period. Don't know if it will last till next heating season but I want to try to make a new refractory liner having more vertical wall around than the stell one I made so the stove should be cold to do so
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Back again with my hobby.
Re-started the Sunny last night with a different liner configuration and a re-re-re modified grate.
I kept the back steel liner (I failed that back part with ref. cement), the steel liner probably send more heat to the back of the stove and it's perfect for my case. The front part is ref. cement going down vertically and very low toward the grate, that would probably avoid hard unburned pieces to jam between the lower fire-pot teeth and the outside of the grate...and made some different modifs to the size of the holes in the grate so the ash could fall down in the pan faster than before and avoid bridging.
In fact that grate may looks like the one in the Golden Bride but it's very different and less efficient. Having the outside rotating ring makes the Goldes grate a perfect one...
Re-started the Sunny last night with a different liner configuration and a re-re-re modified grate.
I kept the back steel liner (I failed that back part with ref. cement), the steel liner probably send more heat to the back of the stove and it's perfect for my case. The front part is ref. cement going down vertically and very low toward the grate, that would probably avoid hard unburned pieces to jam between the lower fire-pot teeth and the outside of the grate...and made some different modifs to the size of the holes in the grate so the ash could fall down in the pan faster than before and avoid bridging.
In fact that grate may looks like the one in the Golden Bride but it's very different and less efficient. Having the outside rotating ring makes the Goldes grate a perfect one...
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- LsFarm
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Hi Piere, can you put an object on the grate to show what size those holes are in the grate? either a measuring tape, or maybe an egg or golf ball or??
Those holes look really big now.. but you burn Stove size coal , right??
And the grate on the SunnySide rocks, right? it doesn't turn or twist??
Did you make a mold for the refractory this time, or use the 'ramming' type that you pound into shape?
Greg L
Those holes look really big now.. but you burn Stove size coal , right??
And the grate on the SunnySide rocks, right? it doesn't turn or twist??
Did you make a mold for the refractory this time, or use the 'ramming' type that you pound into shape?
Greg L
Greg, now the stove burns and I just want to let it run a few days before the Spring time, then I will send some measures of the holes and some feed-back... yes the holes are big, this morning I try the shaking and it looks like that it may work but as you know, only time will tells...LsFarm wrote:Hi Piere, can you put an object on the grate to show what sixe those hoe are in the grate? either a measuring tape, or maybe an egg or golf ball or??
Those holes look really big now.. but you burn Stove size coal , right??
And the grate on the SunnySide rocks, right? it doesn't turn or twist??
Did you cast those curved and tapered firebrick?? nice job !!
Greg L
I burn nut, I got a few stove bags but just put a few pieces on the bed only when very cold and when the stove runs high about 350 *F but stove ant seems not the best for this stove. The grate just rotates, but not a very big rotation, maybe 1/8 of a turn? I should check that too. It swings up at the back when you want to get it out of the stove.
I used the r.cement semi-hard sold in a 50 pounds box, cut it in slices then placed the slices vertically in the front, tap it with a small hammer to shape it.
Last edited by nortcan on Tue. Apr. 02, 2013 1:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Forgot this one. In fact it's before I removed the back r.cement liner. An other thing I had to consider is the fact that the back liners must be removable to be able to remove the grate, so the steel liners sections were O.K.
To be shure the front liner was held safely, I had to weld angle supports at the fire pots base. Good to have a 115V welding machine. No good for long jobs but good for a guy making often small jobs on the same things
To be shure the front liner was held safely, I had to weld angle supports at the fire pots base. Good to have a 115V welding machine. No good for long jobs but good for a guy making often small jobs on the same things
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Thanks Pierre, It will be interesting to see how well your modifications work,
Greg L
Greg L
Greg, for the first time since I have the Sunny, it's the first time that shaking the grate is so easy to work and the shaking lever is going completly right to left of the slots ends/stoppers.
There is no more hard stuff blocking the shaking movement. If the ash goes down and doesn't bridge like before it will be super, but I don't say victory now and will see better next few burning days...
I never could imagine that a small welding machine like that could be so easy to work with and could weld cast iron parts. To help the ""ash flow down"" action, I welded a bolts head on the grates center where there was a square flat area, a good place to accumulate ash.
There is no more hard stuff blocking the shaking movement. If the ash goes down and doesn't bridge like before it will be super, but I don't say victory now and will see better next few burning days...
I never could imagine that a small welding machine like that could be so easy to work with and could weld cast iron parts. To help the ""ash flow down"" action, I welded a bolts head on the grates center where there was a square flat area, a good place to accumulate ash.
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After a few weeks of use, the grate works very well and the ash dumping is easier and more uniform all around in the pan. Before, the left part of the grate had a so big hole in it that as soon as I touch the shaker lever the ash and coal was falling down like a chute in that area. So I got that hole smaller,enlarged the other ones around the center pivot...With just a few (5/6) shaking left to right short movements, the job is done. No more hard pieces jamming betwen the front teeth and the grate outer ring cause the gap is about 1/4". Works vey well with nut size.
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They are beautiful castings! It is another lost art...
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A lot had to do with their iron of the day... It was simply better, I'm not qualified to speak about the variations of metals used, etc. but Cast Iron back in those days of the Railroad was incredible stuff (sometimes called "Pig Iron" and many other things), It was not so much the molds or the pattern makers as much as it was their quality Iron. Wonderful to see such beauty!
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So I'm glad the Sunny side was such a huge success for you over the winter. I told you that it would have no problems providing all the heat you needed and more. And yes the attention to detail on these stoves is always amazing.