DLT 2000 Crapsman

Well the inlaws were junking thier 7 year old crapsman for another no name cheapo and i decided like a fool to try and salvage the craftsman. Repair man put a new intake on it last year and gave it minor servicing. Of course inlaws take care of nothing so mower sat out all winter with gas from last year and now it wont start. I have the fuel line apart and im not getting any fuel from the tank. Any thoughts? I dont see a check valve and im not looking forward to tearing out the tank if i dont have too.

Well coffee can with fuel and plunged the fuel line from filter to carb on in their vrooooom the hog goes. Now to figure out how to remove the fuel tank

Sounds like either the filter is plugged solid, or you've got a plugged vent in the cap. But more than likely the filter - because it would run, and then die as the fuel tank became a vacuum chamber if it were the vent.

I had to drill out the vent on my John Deere after the second season. Used to quit on me in the middle of the lawn due to grass & crap plugging the tiny hole up. Went one size bigger with the drill bit, and haven't had a problem since.

Shouldn't have to pull the tank - just try removing the filter & see if anything comes out. If it does, just get a new filter. Normally the pickup tube on lawn tractors is above the tank, drawing by siphon action of the fuel pump & not by gravity.

Great news.... Found the fuel line all collapsed coming out of the fuel tank. Bought some new fuel lines, clamps, filters(fuel, oil, air) oil and some spray cleaner. Hog runs like a champ. About 50 bucks spent in all.

SMITTY wrote:Shouldn't have to pull the tank - just try removing the filter & see if anything comes out. If it does, just get a new filter. Normally the pickup tube on lawn tractors is above the tank, drawing by siphon action of the fuel pump & not by gravity.

My atv is that way, big ole 6 gallon tank that sits up under the rear rack. That biotch of a fuel line mess comes out of the top. The fuel line came out of the bottom of the tank on the mower, so I pulled the fuel line back so it would be able to drain by gravity and still had no fuel with 3/4 tank of gas. Figured hell with it and pulled tank, would of had to anyway found freakin dirt and rocks in gas tank. Finding the grommet that sits up in the tank to the fuel line was a bugger to find in a store.

Looks like Sears used some "top-quality" fuel line there. Never seen one collapse before!

Glad you found it!

SMITTY wrote:Looks like Sears used some "top-quality" fuel line there. Never seen one collapse before!

Glad you found it!

Ill have to post some pics but i believe the rubber hose fuel line was made by "goodyear"! The inside looked like it was black jelly filled.

Good stuff anthony I just picked up a new project--Yard King pedal control auto drive---never heard of such a critter--52" mower deck & body are mint on this thing--engine ( 22 hp briggs) took a dump, me thinks crank after some checking things out--WA-LAAA happen to have an 11 hp briggs in the barn that I should be able to put in her--I'll have a lot more room under the hood. Now I've got another toy to agravate me. Yep, got the bush-hog working just fine behind the 8N--even got to go out & make some money with her.

ALRIGHT DAMMMNIT! I need some help. How exactly does the governor work on a lawnmower? I have this mower from battery to back all reassembled and now mower starts on first crack. After about 15-20 seconds it begins to rev like a whore. Linkage looks ok, I"m looking at the bracket that is mounted to the engine block and also has the spring/throttle control cable attached. This bracket then operates the throttle on the carb where i can set idle speed and so forth. Springs look good but dont understand wtf is happening. Nothing appears to be loose. Is their an internal control that a snafu?

The lever sticking out of the engine should be free to pivot - check that first. Basically, the throttle control pulls on a spring that pulls on the governor lever. The governor lever is then connected to the actual throttle with a rigid wire. As the RPM increases/decreases, the governor lever will move to control the throttle keeping the engine speed constant at the setting called for by the throttle control.

It very well could be the lever has moved position on the shaft. I had this issue on a Tecumseh engine push mower. The lever slipped while I was working on the carb and prevented the governor from having enough authority to keep the RPM under control. A quick adjustment and I was back in business.

This would just require loosing the locking bolt then turning the shaft as if it was wide open with the throttle control correct? I still have a clear as mud understanding of what the purpose of this is.

I would search the internet for a service manual for the model of engine you have on the mower and follow the instructions for setting it there. I am not sure about B&S, but Kohler has pdf versions of the shop manuals available for free download. It is very easy to quickly damage an engine if the governor is not working. I speak from experience, the best but least forgiving teacher. It may be the linkage/springs but it could be the internal conponent that actually detects the slowing of the rpms that will then move the linkage to give the carb/engine more gas.

jimg wrote:I would search the internet for a service manual for the model of engine you have on the mower and follow the instructions for setting it there. I am not sure about B&S, but Kohler has pdf versions of the shop manuals available for free download. It is very easy to quickly damage an engine if the governor is not working. I speak from experience, the best but least forgiving teacher. It may be the linkage/springs but it could be the internal conponent that actually detects the slowing of the rpms that will then move the linkage to give the carb/engine more gas.

x2

I had good luck finding the original manual online complete with exploded parts diagrams.

And parts I needed were found, believe it or not, by searching for the part number on Amazon.com.

Just my 2 cents worth. I've seen the governor on the inside of the crankcase a few times. It's usually a PADDLE! The oil splashing off the crank is directed at the paddle. The higher the rpm, the harder the oil splashes against the paddle. So the way they are set up, if the rpm decreases due to load, the spring on the outside will open the throttle, providing more power. So if you start going up a hill on your tractor, the engine rpm goes down, the oil splashes with less force, and the spring opens the throttle for you. That's the balance that can be hard to get.

All my life I've heard small engines going up and down in rpm like rrr RRR rrr RRR rrr RRR. I've always wanted to be able to adjust this fluctuation out, sometimes with no luck at all!

Sometimes the little shaft coming out of the crankcase is "D" shaped to accept the lever that clamps down onto it. That way, usually the adjustment is on the lever.

Sometimes low or too much oil or wrong viscosity can have something to do with it.

Also, some gas tanks have a brass or nylon mesh filter in the bottom of the tank. If the tank is allowed to sit and all the gas evaporates out, that mesh filter can become completely gummed up with gas "varnish".
I once boiled an MG gas tank on top of a barbeque grill, I filled it with POR-15 Marine Engine Clean & water, which I think is basically a lye solution. It cleaned that old tank very well.

My manager is a tractor nut. Loves old tractors and rebuilds and sells and does it again. Picked his brain about how governors work and how they are set. Best advice he could give was that it would be highly unlikely the governor would be my problem. Could be but hard to believe he said. He gave me a bottle of lucas carb and top end cleaner. Said try this if that dont work good luck too ya. Of course me thinking bullshiit this wont work, tried it anyway and holy balls what a difference. I did do a half ass cleaning of the carb, but didnt get too thorough. I knew what a new carb cost so i didnt wanna break the darn thing. He explained with the dirty carb its hard for the engine to "level out" and would constantly chase itself for the desired load. Who'd a thunk a 7$ bottle of lucas would have her hummmin

If you got it all back together correctly, there is probably dirt in the air screw for idle. if that is restricted they will surge. Try opening that some if you can, So many carbs are coming with no adjustments




Eric