It's happened!!! And only two seasons in...

SO, how about running stove pipe up to the chimney flue liner and sealing it there with fiberglass insulation?
Or have you tried that already? Unless you have some serious stack effect going on in the house (air leakage thru the roof) I don't see why this wouldn't work...

I go with Berlin taller is better...
I have a short exterior metalbestos chimney...
I was 3 feet over the peak...
Added 2 feet and now it drafts very well...

CapeCoaler wrote:I go with Berlin taller is better...
I have a short exterior metalbestos chimney...
I was 3 feet over the peak...
Added 2 feet and now it drafts very well...

I added two (2) feet to the chimney this past summer. It didn't help.

I think it is the exterior chimney at fault. It stays to cool and the air is not rising and creating good draft. If it was only the length of the chimney, my metalbestos one would not work at all. Because its insulated, it maintains a temp. difference. Mine is only 6 inch and drafts super.
Is your unit such that you could burn some wood or paper or cardboard? Get some heat into the chimney and check the draft. I think the mass of the chimney is such that it is just sucking up the heat before it can establish a draft out the top.

Just my .02 worth

Kevin

Lightning wrote:Right, He tried taller I think exhausting gases from a vehicle are a bit different than the natural draft of a chimney fellas, help me out here

Keeping more heat in the chimney has got to make a difference and a smaller outlet at the top should do that. You could try that with a piece of sheet metal with a 6 inch hole, or use a chimney pot that will also restrict the opening. Too much cold air can sink into that big opening.

My brother is heating his house with a Hitzer stove connect to an exterior masonry chimney (8" round flue)...it drafts fine even on 45 degree days. The chimney is 42 blocks high, a few feet over the peak. I'm sure it would draft better if the chimney was inside the house, but my point is that even an exterior chimney should provide acceptable performance if it is tall enough.

My EFM is connected to a huge brick chimney that goes up through our living room. I think the chimney is 32' high, just over the peak, and the first 12' is inside the house. It provides sufficient draft even in July.

exterior masonry chimney (8" round flue).

That 8 inch round is far better then this rock heavy mass outside chimney. I am not sure from reading through the post if it is lined. If it is not or if it is with 12x12, there is a large amount of air space surrounded with very cold stone etc. I think he almost has to have a draft inducer to get good draft with the lack of a high temp exhaust. Wood fires were so inefficient they worked fine, other then the creosote. Where do you stop going up to get a draft with cool exhaust? How about make up air? Has this been covered in past posts?

Kevin

franco b wrote:Keeping more heat in the chimney has got to make a difference and a smaller outlet at the top should do that. You could try that with a piece of sheet metal with a 6 inch hole, or use a chimney pot that will also restrict the opening. Too much cold air can sink into that big opening.

If anything, its worth a try... Just do it when your home to monitor the draft and give the chimney time to adapt to a smaller opening at the top. I know it seems to not make sense, but if cold air is sinking in because the opening is too big, it may help..

I do run a draft inducer. The chimney is lined with 9x13 terracotta tile. The chimney is outside on the north end of the house. I have thought about framing the chimney out and insulating it then siding it. I'm not sure if it can be done though. I think the chimney is just too big. Inside siameter is 8x12. This is the first season I'm using the chimney itself as last season I had a 16' 316Ti liner in it.