Recharging a window air conditioner

Joeski · By: **Joeski** On: Thu Jun 21, 2012 4:21 pm

So what all do you think about recharging a window unit instead of buying a new one. I would rather save some money and not buy a new one but this one is about ten years old. In the Pennsylvania heat wave yesterday my bedroom was 85.6 *F when I got home from work yesterday. When I turned on the AC it would run about 5 minutes then make a loud clunking sound which I am pretty sure was the compressor turning off. I had set the unit to 71*F. It took about 4 to 5 hours to get the temp down. The unit kept clunking itself off over and over.

Thanks for any and all help in advance.

steamup · By: **steamup** On: Thu Jun 21, 2012 5:54 pm

Any appliance that has a problem with the refrigeration circuit is probably more costly to repair than to replace.

If the compressor is running but stopping, it is probably dropping out on a thermal limit. Check to make sure the condenser is not blocked or dirty. Blowing it out with compressed air may help if it is dirty.

Make sure the inside air filter and coil is clean also. Wash the filter and Vacuum the coil off if dirty.

It may not be a refrigerant problem. It just may be too overworked with the extreme temperatures.

Window A/C units are made for a very competitive market place. A ten year old unit isn't worth repairing and a new unit will be more efficient on energy.

Freddy · By: **Freddy** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 6:03 am

What Steamup said.... a window unit usually isn't worth repairing unless you can do it yourself. IF the freeon has leaked, it must be repaired and recharged. Just adding freeon to a leaking unit isn't a sound idea. It's not like a car.... there is no seal that can slowly leak. If it has leaked, it will continue to do so and can only get worse. Give it a good cleaning and see if it improves.

McGiever · By: **McGiever** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:24 pm

Yup, what *Steamup* and *Freddy* said.

Unlike and automobile air conditioner with a lot of horsepower to drive it, house air conditioners have limited designed motors to drive the compressor.

If all is clean as it should be for optimum performance, set the T'stat to come on at a lower room temp than 85*F to allow it have a head start towards cooling earlier.
I would suspect, as was stated, it was reaching the *Thermal Cutout* due to extreme work load.

jpete · By: **jpete** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:40 pm

I just finished doing my 3 window shakers today.

They are roughly the same age as yours and you can't believe how dirty they were.

Both the evaporators and condensers. Leaves, bugs, bee's nests, rust, you name it.

I used compressed air, a shop vac, a brass brush to clean/straighten the fins, two cans of coil cleaner(from Lowes) and a garden hose.

It took a couple three hours for each unit but they are all up and running. Nice and quiet just like new.

Don't forget the squirrel cage blower. Just like on the coal stove blower, dirt on the fan reduces airflow.

If you are decently mechanically inclined, all three units of different makes basically came apart with a 1/4" nutdriver and a Phillips head screwdriver.

jpete · By: **jpete** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 8:42 pm

steamup wrote: A ten year old unit isn't worth repairing and a new unit will be more efficient on energy.

The problem is, new self contained units are R410a now since they outlawed R22 units this years.

A 5000-8000 Btu unit that you could get at Wal Mart for less than $100 last year is about $250-$275 now.

SMITTY · By: **SMITTY** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 10:44 pm

Just fill it with propane. Works great!

Just hope the damn thing don't catch fire ..... it could get ugly. But at least you'll be real cold prior to the explosion! :woot:

Now, what I want to know is .... how do you charge it yourself? Seems the device used to solder/crimp the copper charging port is a very big secret that nobody in the HVAC world is willing to divulge. I'm so broke right now, I'm going to recharge whatever needs recharging - buying new is completely out of the question. If that means brazing a port off the Jimmy's A/C system, then that's what I'll do!

Wood'nCoal · By: **Wood'nCoal** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:02 pm

You mean one of these?

http://www.henrytech.com/catalog/2010/a13-a14.pdf

SMITTY · By: **SMITTY** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:07 pm

SWEET! You tha man John!

Now I bet the one I need cost as much as a new A/C unit .... :lol:

Wood'nCoal · By: **Wood'nCoal** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:17 pm

The little one that you need isn't that expensive.

steamup wrote:Window A/C units are made for a very competitive market place. A ten year old unit isn't worth repairing and a new unit will be more efficient on energy.

So I guess when my 30 year old Philco 6,000 BTU craps out then it goes to the scrapyard? It weights more then 3 of the current units together.

SMITTY · By: **SMITTY** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:21 pm

Yeah just found some on eBay for about $5 each ... or even less if you buy several.

It's amazing how useless the internet is when you don't know the NAME of a device .... :roll:

LINE TAP VALVE! :doh:

I shoulda known that!

Wood'nCoal · By: **Wood'nCoal** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:25 pm

That's about the going price.

I couldn't remember the name of it either. I floundered around for a while and finally searched "A/C clamp on valve for recharging".

SMITTY · By: **SMITTY** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:38 pm

I didn't even get that far .....

jim d · By: **jim d** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:43 pm

smitty how many do you need &what size they come w/ shims to fit different size tubing iv'e also got some 2.00 a # r 22

SMITTY · By: **SMITTY** On: Fri Jun 22, 2012 11:59 pm

Thanks Jim! I don't actually need any at the moment - all the units are working fine, at least right now. Just wanted to be prepared just in case. Got an old fridge & one old A/C ... but it's actually the new fridge I'm worried about failing first ...

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