EFM has a diagram in the manual, but the only thing you are missing to make that loop a "boiler bypass" is a valve between the boiler and the tee where the copper joins. You would adjust that valve so some of the cool water from the zones bypasses the boiler...this helps prevent thermal shock and promotes long circulation times. The other benefit is that the bypass loop helps prevent stratification within the boiler when nothing is ciculating. Your current piping setup will accomplish the second part, and if you don't have a high-mass (big cast iron radiators, radiant slab) zone piped off the boiler, I wouldn't worry about the bypass valves.
Here is a setup similar to yours with the bypass valves installed:
Again, if none of the zones are large enough to overwhelm the boiler with cold water the way you have it piped should work just fine.